Hi peteeng,
Don't be duped....you need as much resisting torque as you can get. I got lucky and had 'enough', but only just 'enough'.....more would be better, and you'll need more than I as theEpoch is for plastic, foam and timber so the pushback is much less then metal.
radius at which you will be working is much greater than mine.
I think that is wrong, or a misprint. If they are genuine HD (the original Japanese patent holders) then that should be 5 to 10 arc seconds, and they do not describe it as 'backlash' but 'lost motion' whichmarketing txt it says no backlash but in the tech specs some have 5arcmin and some have 10arcmin..
reflects the flexure of the wave cup at rated torque. In any mans language very good indeed.
I think you've got the best of it. When a stub axle gets put through such bearings followed by a splined flange that mounts the wheel studs, and gets torqued 'until your eyes bulge',I did squish the bearing this morning and it got better the harder it was squished. I used an M8 bolt and some large washers but I'm bending the washers so need to make a better rig... But its looking good so far...Peter
that is s technical term for doing it up as tight as you can, the two inner races are hard up against each other and the bearing assumes its designed pre-load/clearance as the case may be.
If you have clamped them up until the washers start to deform, you've already probably got the inner races hard up against each other and the bearing will assume its designed properties
or as close to that makes no difference.
Craig