[margni74]

I just got a nice batch of ash veneer from ebay. 1/42" thick, no backing.

I plan on building a bed out of MDF, covering the MDF in veneer, and then staining it a dark "Espresso".

1) Should I go with cement or glue? I'm not sure which is going to be easier to work with, although its probably the glue. I plan on laying the veneer and then sandwiching MDF on either side and clamping to apply even pressure.
2) I have some "General Finishes" water based stain. Its not a liquid, but rather a thick gel, and is applied with a rag. Is this ok for veneer this thin? Is the fact that its water based going to cause issues.


Here it is... It's basically a rip-off of a Crate and Barrel bed thats around $500 or so.

thanks for the help!

[ger21]

I just lost a long reply, so this one will be brief.

The best way to do it is vacuum veneering. See www.joewoodworker.com for all the supplies and info you need.

Your method will work, I've done it myself. Use veneer glue, like joewoodworker sells, or Titebond cold press veneer glue (available at Rockler if you have one near you). You'll be limited to 8-10 inches wide, and use a lot of clamps. Every 8-12" on each side of the board.

The water based gel stain shouldn't be a problem. I use water soluble dies, which is the same as pouring water on the finished panels, with no ill effects. I've run into problems with water based polyurethane topcoats, though. If the veneer is loose anywhere, water based topcoats can cause bubbles, due to the slow drying time.

If you have any more specific questions, just ask.

[ger21]

Here's a good source of vacuum veneering info. Not a lot of traffic, though.

http://www.vacupress.com/forum/forum...id=3&catlock=1

[Regnar]

Margni, why use mdf and not solid ash wood. Once you figure in the time to veneer in all the mdf for this project it will easly pay for itself. Not to mention the piece will last alot longer than the mdf. Is it a cost issue or do you just want to try out veenering. Ger gave you some great links with a load of information. If you dont read them one thing that I will say is try out glueing test piece to see if glue bleeds threw. Nothing like ruining a project because of glue.

[2muchstuff]

If I'm veneering plain basic flat surfaces, not compound curves, I use contact cement and a roller to press it in place.

[margni74]

Margni, why use mdf and not solid ash wood. Once you figure in the time to veneer in all the mdf for this project it will easly pay for itself. Not to mention the piece will last alot longer than the mdf. Is it a cost issue or do you just want to try out veenering. Ger gave you some great links with a load of information. If you dont read them one thing that I will say is try out glueing test piece to see if glue bleeds threw. Nothing like ruining a project because of glue.

Good points. I got the idea after ripping apart my coffee table and saw that it was ash veneer over mdf. seems to be holding up well.
I got like 100ft of veneer 7+" widths for like $80 of off ebay shipped, and the mdf will be around $30. I'm not sure I could get solid ash for that kind of price.

I bought some poplar at lowes the other week for another project, probably enough bf to make this bed, and it was $220. I can only imagine what solid ash wood cost, and i lack a planer/jointer to prep the wood.

its not really a cost issue, but i wanted to try out veneering and this seemed like a good project. Hopefully I dont fail and have to listen to the girlfriend (who has been complaining about the lack of bed forever)

also, i should mention that Id like to refinish my cabinets at some point and maybe veneering would do the trick

[margni74]

I just lost a long reply, so this one will be brief.

The best way to do it is vacuum veneering. See www.joewoodworker.com for all the supplies and info you need.

Your method will work, I've done it myself. Use veneer glue, like joewoodworker sells, or Titebond cold press veneer glue (available at Rockler if you have one near you). You'll be limited to 8-10 inches wide, and use a lot of clamps. Every 8-12" on each side of the board.

The water based gel stain shouldn't be a problem. I use water soluble dies, which is the same as pouring water on the finished panels, with no ill effects. I've run into problems with water based polyurethane topcoats, though. If the veneer is loose anywhere, water based topcoats can cause bubbles, due to the slow drying time.

If you have any more specific questions, just ask.

Thanks for the info. Im digging through that site now.

The largest pieces are the two side pieces, about 7' long and 7" wide. The other pieces vary up to around 7' wide, so in that respect i should have a no problem. I have a rockler nearby, last time i went in they didn't have any veneer glue. I looked at the spec sheet for titebond, it calls for 100-250psi for the product to set correctly. I'm unsure if I can get this with clamps.

Did you build a vacuum press like the one outlined on joewoodworker.com?
I've seen some 3-5CFM robinair and pittstop brand units for around $200 bucks. Are these OK brands?

[ger21]

Like I said, I've glued veneer with clampsand the Titebond glue. I did this that way. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...4662#post64662

I built a vacuum press from Joewoodworker using a venturi pump. It works very well and cost less than $100.

And I'd stay away from contact cement, if you want it to last a long time.

[ger21]

One other thing. I've always wondered about that psi number on the titebond. Vacuum gives you about 13-14psi, and works just fine. 100 psi = 15,000 lbs/sq ft. That would require almost 500,000 lbs of pressure to do a 4x8 sheet.

[margni74]

Like I said, I've glued veneer with clampsand the Titebond glue. I did this that way. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...4662#post64662

I built a vacuum press from Joewoodworker using a venturi pump. It works very well and cost less than $100.

And I'd stay away from contact cement, if you want it to last a long time.

Wow,nice piece! If this bed comes out 1/2 as good as that mantle, i'll be ecstatic.

[martinw]

I looked at the spec sheet for titebond, it calls for 100-250psi for the product to set correctly. I'm unsure if I can get this with clamps.

?

Dear margni74,

I could well be wrong, but I think a pressure of 100-250 psi is a bit unrealistic. Are you sure that you didn't mis-read the Titebond information?

A vacuum bag press might get about 14 psi (allowing for leaks etc).

Best wishes,

Martin

[ger21]

Martin, that's what the bottle actually says. See my post #9.

[martinw]

Martin, that's what the bottle actually says. See my post #9.

Dear Gerry,

That is, at least, the second time that I have been caught not paying attention in class as regards vacuum stuff.

Sorry Gerry,

Best wishes

Martin

[margni74]

Like I said, I've glued veneer with clampsand the Titebond glue. I did this that way. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...4662#post64662

I built a vacuum press from Joewoodworker using a venturi pump. It works very well and cost less than $100.

And I'd stay away from contact cement, if you want it to last a long time.

Thanks for the recommendations. I glued up a 3'x7" wide section of MDF as an experiment last night with about 8 small clamps using the titebond, and it came out pretty well. no ripples, bumps, or glue seeping through. After a couple of coats of the gel stain things are looking promising. Edges trim up easy with a sharp razor too.

I just need to experiment a bit where the two veneers meet at the 90.

[Mickster]

I just lost a long reply, so this one will be brief.

Sorry I can't be of much help to the OP, but I may be able to help you...

I am new here, but no stranger to forums. Usually, a simple reply is no problem, but a lengthy reply, composed over say...10-15 mins or so...can result in all the hard work disappearing when previewed, due to time-outs. Before hitting the preview button, do a CTRL+A, then CTRL+C to copy the text. If the post vanishes due to a time-out, your work is not lost - just CTRL+V to re-insert & preview again.

HTH,

Mick.

[CanSir]

I'm reviving an old thread.....

Great looking bed. Does anyone have detailed plans for building this bed or similar looking bed?