[Timbo456]

Hi guys, rookie question, but I’m looking to purchase a used Taig that has lead screws. I’m not terribly concerned with rapids, and I’ve read that the lead screw vs ball screw debate is overblown from a hobbyist perspective. That said, and before I shell out the money, would it still be possible to cut steel (however slowly and shallowly) with a leadscrew Taig?

[awerby]

Yes, the ball screws allow it to go faster and eliminate backlash, but the Taig will certainly cut mild steel with the standard lead screws. Just don't use too large a cutter to avoid bogging down in the cut; a 3/16" 4-flute should be okay, though.

[Timbo456]

Yes, the ball screws allow it to go faster and eliminate backlash, but the Taig will certainly cut mild steel with the standard lead screws. Just don't use too large a cutter to avoid bogging down in the cut; a 3/16" 4-flute should be okay, though.

Ok perfect, thanks for the heads up!

While I have you, if you don’t mind me asking one more, is a GRBL controller using Candle software an issue? All the machines and info I read are usually on Mach3 and g540. Thank you!

[joeavaerage]

Hi,
the real advantage of ballscrews is backlash, or rather absence of backlash. Additionally ballscrews tend to be larger in diameter which makes them stiffer and able to rotate faster
without whipping.

A machine with good lead screws, ie minimal lash is not a deal breaker but ballscrews are very much preferred.

Craig

[phomann]

Ok perfect, thanks for the heads up!

While I have you, if you don’t mind me asking one more, is a GRBL controller using Candle software an issue? All the machines and info I read are usually on Mach3 and g540. Thank you!

Yes most people use Mach3/4 and the G540 with the Taig mills. That said, grbl and their various g-code sender programs are quite popular as well. My favorite is GRBL-HAL and IOsender.
Not all grbl versions are the same. Many have short comings when it comes to using them with CNC as their roots are in the 3D printer space. They are getting better though and is an option worth looking at for hobbyists.
You really need to evaluate the grbl software and sender programs to see if they suit your needs.
Mach is a known product with a large user base so support from the user community is good. The same applies to the G540.

Also, the nut on the Taig lead screw is adjustable so you can minimize the backlash, and adjust it if the screw wears.

Cheers
Peter.


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[joeavaerage]

Hi,

All the machines and info I read are usually on Mach3

All development on Mach3 ceased eight years ago, notwithstanding that it still works I consider it obsolete. Better Mach4 and an ESS motion control. I've been using it for eight years
and light years ahead of Mach3.

Craig

[Timbo456]

Yes most people use Mach3/4 and the G540 with the Taig mills. That said, grbl and their various g-code sender programs are quite popular as well. My favorite is GRBL-HAL and IOsender.
Not all grbl versions are the same. Many have short comings when it comes to using them with CNC as their roots are in the 3D printer space. They are getting better though and is an option worth looking at for hobbyists.
You really need to evaluate the grbl software and sender programs to see if they suit your needs.
Mach is a known product with a large user base so support from the user community is good. The same applies to the G540.

All development on Mach3 ceased eight years ago, notwithstanding that it still works I consider it obsolete. Better Mach4 and an ESS motion control. I've been using it for eight years
and light years ahead of Mach3.

Thanks so much for the responses guys. Appreciate the detail on the leadscrew adjustments.

Playing devils advocate for a second, lets say the the GRBL implementation isn't ideal/not the best flavor. Is the option to upgrade to Mach4/G540 a possibility? If so, is it relatively straight forward?

Thanks guys!

[joeavaerage]

Hi,

Is the option to upgrade to Mach4/G540 a possibility? If so, is it relatively straight forward?

Not really, it would be a bit like upgrading a skateboard to a four wheel drive. If you want a skateboard, get a skateboard. If you want a four wheel drive best to start with a four wheel drive.

Craig

PS: realised the answer while not incorrect does not really explain why. Mach4 is really best matched with an external motion controller like an ESS. There are others
but the ESS is as good if not better than most. The system would be Mach4Hobby ($200), ESS ($225) and a G540 ($300). If you want to go that way best you
do it from the get go....just know the costs before you start.

[phomann]

I agree with Craig that if you go with Mach then Mach4 is the way to go.

As to the hardware, if you are starting out, the G540 is what you should use. It is a complete 4 axis controller with opto isolation on the inputs/ outputs.
You will be grateful for that as it can eliminate a lot of electrical interference problems that new starts seem to experience.

Cheers

Peter


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[Timbo456]

Ok, that makes sense, thanks so much for the info.

All that said, I still think I’m going to pull the trigger on this used Taig. It’s leadscrew with the GRBL AND 27Ooz steppers. He wants $1500 for it so I feel like it’s a relatively fair deal, even if it’s not the perfect package. Something to learn on at least.

[phomann]

Yes, I agree. I didn’t realise it came with the controller. The Taig is a great machine to start with. My first machine was a Taig and I still have it. I have a larger machine that I bought after using the Taig.

Cheers
Peter


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[awerby]

Check the inductance on those steppers. If it's too high, that's going to limit the speed of your rapids - or fault when you attempt them. Also, that's not a very good price for a used Taig with a questionable controller and motors. We sell a new 2019 CR for $1090, which comes with a 2-year warranty. https://computersculpture.com/taig-m...ill-cnc-ready/ You could get that and add a new G-540 and motors and still come out lower than $1500. Then you'd be spending your time learning about machining, and not about rebuilding CNC control systems.

[joeavaerage]

Hi,
I'm sorry to say but I also think $1500 is to much.
If awerby is selling new machines for the same or less, then the choice is plain. I would pay the extra for ballscrews.

Remember these machines will, with some little care, last for many years and hold residual value in direct relation to the components fitted, eg ballscrews.

Craig

[Timbo456]

Hi,
I'm sorry to say but I also think $1500 is to much.
If awerby is selling new machines for the same or less, then the choice is plain. I would pay the extra for ballscrews.

Remember these machines will, with some little care, last for many years and hold residual value in direct relation to the components fitted, eg ballscrews.

Craig

Check the inductance on those steppers. If it's too high, that's going to limit the speed of your rapids - or fault when you attempt them. Also, that's not a very good price for a used Taig with a questionable controller and motors. We sell a new 2019 CR for $1090, which comes with a 2-year warranty. https://computersculpture.com/taig-m...ill-cnc-ready/ You could get that and add a new G-540 and motors and still come out lower than $1500. Then you'd be spending your time learning about machining, and not about rebuilding CNC control systems.

Alright well this all makes sense and I appreciate you both throwing the rope back over to a new guy starting out. I reached out to awerby directly with a couple other questions but will likely skip the used one for now. I’d feel better going with a more documented and known software package as well.

Thanks guys, really appreciate it!


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[sclelectronics]

My $.02 on the matter of cutting steel with ballscrews... which I do all the time on my Old Mach3 win10 g540 ESS setup.....
Since the Ballscrew is so efficient for linear movement...
I will set my gibs on the tighter side... but not so tight you start to lose steps......
BTW..I use the old Crank method when I adjust my gibs... to get a better feel for how tight the gibs are!!!

[CS900]

FYI, if anyone else needs a set of the "CNC ready" leadscrews with the motor mounts, I have a set collecting dust that I'd love to see go to a new home and get used. I'm not on this forum super often, so messaging me directly (should) shoot me an email so I know someone has reached out.