[difalkner]

I've talked about this several times and I'm finally back to building #2! When I built my first guitar I didn't have the CNC, actually built the CNC while I was finishing that guitar so the only job I did on the CNC for that guitar was a little bit of the bridge. I began build #2 while I was building #1 but got so busy with high-end custom woodworking for other folks that I set #2 aside; I didn't realize it was going to be for 5+ years.

Now that I have the CNC I would like to use it for a few more tasks in the building of #2 so the first thing I did was to take photos of the body rim and draw that as closely as possible in my CAD program. The short video below is using a Sharpie to draw that outline so I could see how close my digital drawing came to the hand shaped rims - pretty close as it turns out.

The body is Honduras Mahogany, the lining is Maple with a little Curly Maple thrown in for aesthetics, the top will be Sitka Spruce, and the neck will be glued up African/Honduras Mahogany with a Maple stripe (that could change). The body shape is my design but is very close to my Takamine Grand Auditorium (probably close to Martin's GA or OM, as well).

I'll post updates to the build here in this thread so follow along and ask questions, offer comments, and I'll do my best to get this guitar finished soon so I can get started on more guitars.
Attachment 496736
Attachment 496738

[CNCMAN172]

I've talked about this several times and I'm finally back to building #2! When I built my first guitar I didn't have the CNC, actually built the CNC while I was finishing that guitar so the only job I did on the CNC for that guitar was a little bit of the bridge. I began build #2 while I was building #1 but got so busy with high-end custom woodworking for other folks that I set #2 aside; I didn't realize it was going to be for 5+ years.

Now that I have the CNC I would like to use it for a few more tasks in the building of #2 so the first thing I did was to take photos of the body rim and draw that as closely as possible in my CAD program. The short video below is using a Sharpie to draw that outline so I could see how close my digital drawing came to the hand shaped rims - pretty close as it turns out.

The body is Honduras Mahogany, the lining is Maple with a little Curly Maple thrown in for aesthetics, the top will be Sitka Spruce, and the neck will be glued up African/Honduras Mahogany with a Maple stripe (that could change). The body shape is my design but is very close to my Takamine Grand Auditorium (probably close to Martin's GA or OM, as well).

I'll post updates to the build here in this thread so follow along and ask questions, offer comments, and I'll do my best to get this guitar finished soon so I can get started on more guitars.
Attachment 496736
Attachment 496738

Very nice job

[difalkner]

Thank you!

Rosette inlay test on Honduras Mahogany. This is sort of a twisted vine that I drew and decided to use on the guitar but I wanted to test it first. The Mahogany was already cut and the proper thickness for a guitar top (sort of, it is 0.080" thick). The inlay pieces are Maple and Redheart. There's a short video below showing the steps I used to make the inlay.
Attachment 496758

[difalkner]

Got started on the top today and decided on Curly Maple and Imbuya Burl for the rosette.

[difalkner]

Rosette inlay completed but not yet glued or sanded flush -
Attachment 497106

[difalkner]

The rosette is completed and the top rough cut to shape (actual shape plus 3/16" all the way around). No finish yet but a little Naphtha on the rosette close-up. Not perfect but I'll take it.
Attachment 497130
Attachment 497132

[difalkner]

Finished the video for the rosette and cutting the top out. Next will be cutting and fitting braces to the underside of the top.

[difalkner]

Made a little progress on the guitar build and got the X-brace glued, ready to sand the 28' radius on the bottom of the braces.
Attachment 498238
Attachment 498240

[difalkner]

Finished the next step and began another, so here's an update -

Glued these 80 grit pieces to the 28' radius dish -
Attachment 498438
Cut the Bubinga bridge plate and an MDF caul to hold it down for gluing -
Attachment 498440
And a video to go along with all of this -

[difalkner]

More progress on the acoustic build -
Attachment 498670

[Ashley-techprolaser]

Wow amazing job!! This is very creative...

[bostosh]

How about a CNC'g Bridge?
Attachment 498690

[difalkner]

Wow amazing job!! This is very creative...

Thanks for checking it out!

How about a CNC'g Bridge?
Attachment 498690

On my first guitar I had just built my CNC and cut the bridge. I'll use the CNC to cut the bridge on this one, as well.

[difalkner]

Did some carving on the braces, got a new chisel, and on to the next step!
Attachment 498882

[difalkner]

I took the opportunity to use the CNC for a small piece on the guitar, cutting the neck block extension to support the fingerboard and also cutting the neck block itself after it was already glued to the rim (guitar sides). There was a bit of risk in doing this because I only had one shot at getting the neck block right or I would've had to do some serious recovery to fix any mistakes.
Attachment 499072

[harryn]

Very nice.

[difalkner]

Very nice.

Thank you!

[difalkner]

Today was a busy day on the guitar even though it doesn't appear much has changed. Lots of cutting on the sides for braces and a ton of sanding to get the sides to fit the radius of the top.
Attachment 499104

[difalkner]

One more for today, and this one is a video I had not planned to make but it became necessary when I turned the lights out (glare angle) and saw how badly the top was dented. If you've ever steamed dents out then this is old news to you but if you've never seen this then maybe it will help you. Unfortunately, I've had to do this many, many times!
Attachment 499110

[Kosh]

One more for today, and this one is a video I had not planned to make but it became necessary when I turned the lights out (glare angle) and saw how badly the top was dented. If you've ever steamed dents out then this is old news to you but if you've never seen this then maybe it will help you. Unfortunately, I've had to do this many, many times!
Attachment 499110

Cannot emphasize this enough. Treat that top like it's a newborn baby or maybe a mirror for the JWST. Keep dust off it and be VERY careful what you sit it on while working on the back side.

I use "router mats" (and make sure they're totally clean!) underneath it, even when setting it on the hollow form. Never had an issue with dents.

https://www.rockler.com/non-slip-router-mat