[chucketn2]

Will this driver work with this controller?

CNC Router Single 1 Axis 3.5A TB6560 Stepper Stepping Motor Driver Board | eBay

Anyone apply this controller to a Vertex 4" RT?

Chuck

[paul2]

Hi Chuck,

You ask: "Will this driver work with this controller?

CNC Router Single 1 Axis 3.5A TB6560 Stepper Stepping Motor Driver Board | eBay"

Yes, it works fine. I have two and they do all I want.

P2

[chucketn2]

Thanks, Paul. Just ordered one.

Chuck

[chucketn2]

I finally got a good transfer to the pcb board blank! Only been playing with this for about 18 months! As I'm now retired and don't have access to a laser printer, I took the pdf of the circuit (Lucas' version) to Office Depot, explained what I was trying to do, and got 6 copies printed for $.99!
Actually got an extra copy as I questioned the paper used as to it releasing the toner when soaked. The OD guy recommended a glossy finished paper and then gave me the other print. The glossy finish print was what I tried first and it worked great! I had to clean the transfer a bit with an Exact knife as I guess I pressed to long or too hard with the iron and some of the bigger traces kinda spread until they touched. Etching is next!
My current question is can I use one size pcb drill for all the holes? What size should I use and where can I get them? How many holes is a pcb drill good for? I count roughly 130 holes on the board.

Chuck

[mp3]

Drill sizes normally used are 0.8mm (0.032") for IC and components and 1mm (0,04") or 1.4mm (0.056") for the larger components like IDC connectors and terminal blocks.
If the board is fibreglass then tungsten carbide drills are best, but easily broken when manually drilling. As you have only a few holes to drill you can use HSS drills which blunt quickly. Ebay has sets of drills from 0.2mm to 1.6mm that are cheap.

Malcolm

[chucketn2]

Is there a good printable schematic for this project? I have one that is the size of a postage stamp for some reason and can't print it big enough to check my component placement.
Anyone have a photo of the board with components mounted using Lucas's layout? Thank you to those hanging on with me and my delayed build!
Also, in lucas's silk, what are the terminations for Vin through Step? Are they the green screw type wire terminations? Anyone have a part #. Seems I remember ordering them with the other parts but they were not in stock at the time and I forgot to reorder.

Chuck

[chucketn2]

Found a schematic in the stuff I downloaded from Kwackers website long ago. Still need info on the wire terminations.

Chuck

[kwackers]

If you're going to fit a socket to plug the motor into then you could just solder wires to the PCB and the socket.
(I only fitted those screw terminators because they looked nice... ;-)

[lucas]

Anyone have a photo of the board with components mounted using Lucas's layout?
Chuck

There's a picture of my assembled board in this post:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/895325-post350.html

[chucketn2]

Thanks, Lucas. Looking up venders to source the screw type terminations.

Chuck

[Al_The_Man]

You can get all types of spacing configurations from DigiKey.
e.g. ED1975-ND
Digi-Key Part Search
Al.

[chucketn2]

Major setback! I had checked out software for my pic programmer and found it had been updated. That required me to obtain a 2nd pic for the programmer to be able to load the update. $10 and a week later, I get the spare 16F628A's to upgrade. Got the upgrade done, and now my DIY K149bc/QL2005 recognizes both 18F452 and 18F4250 PIC's. Problem is, I try to load the controller soft ware to my only 18F452, or any of 3 18F4520's and all fail to program.
I had purchased the QL2005 pic programmer just for this project. While checking out the software updates for it, I found the DIY forum, learned DIY seams to be falling into oblivion, and the market was flooded with counterfit PIC Programmers and DIY can't help! Damick!
Any PIC programmers that can help me out here?
I haven't drilled the holes in my new pcb yet! Crap!

Chuck

[chucketn2]

I purchased a 1 axis stepper driver board on e-bay. I expected it to come with an application data sheet or info on how to hook it up, but it didn't.
Picture here: Digital RT controller Photos by chucketn | Photobucket

On the left is the input from the control circuit from top to bottom +5v, Pul, Dir and EN. I do not know what values PUL, DIR and EN should be.
On the right from top to bottom: A+, A-, B+, B-, +24V, GND.

This driver is to become part of my Digital RT controller project.

Anyone familiar with this Stepper Driver? It's based on the TB6560AHO chip.

Can anyone suggest a simple test setup to see if it works?

I have a TEC CBA45-01101 3v unipolar stepper I want to drive with it.

I also have 5VDC and 12VDC wall warts to provide power for testing. I do know from the E-Bay listing it can handle 12-24v for stepper supply.How can I provide simple Pul, Dir and EN signals to the input? Can I safely drive a 3v stepper with 12v?


Chuck

[Al_The_Man]

You would really need to know the nature of the inputs, but it is quite possible they are sink inputs using 4N25 optos? So in the absence of a input common, an input that closes 5v to EN and PUL/DIR (step.dir) would work.
Al.

[cjsamples]

The EN on the Keling drivers don't get connected to anything so probably ok to leave it off. I am sure someone on here knows exactly what it does.

Chris

Added photo of the 6050 with c10 board.

[doorknob]

I purchased a 1 axis stepper driver board on e-bay. I expected it to come with an application data sheet or info on how to hook it up, but it didn't.
Picture here: Digital RT controller Photos by chucketn | Photobucket

On the left is the input from the control circuit from top to bottom +5v, Pul, Dir and EN. I do not know what values PUL, DIR and EN should be.
On the right from top to bottom: A+, A-, B+, B-, +24V, GND.

This driver is to become part of my Digital RT controller project.

Anyone familiar with this Stepper Driver? It's based on the TB6560AHO chip.

Can anyone suggest a simple test setup to see if it works?

I have a TEC CBA45-01101 3v unipolar stepper I want to drive with it.

I also have 5VDC and 12VDC wall warts to provide power for testing. I do know from the E-Bay listing it can handle 12-24v for stepper supply.How can I provide simple Pul, Dir and EN signals to the input? Can I safely drive a 3v stepper with 12v?


Chuck

I have no experience with that specific driver board, however the hookup should be straightforward.

First, it looks like there are three optoisolators on the input lines (Pul-, Dir-, EN-). Note the minus signs (-) on those signal names, which implies that those signal lines are active low (meaning that you would connect them to breakout board outputs or other driving circuit elements that can sink current to ground in order to activate the optoisolator's LED - the current comes from the +5 volt connection described below). The meaning of those signal lines is:

Pul-: step pulse signal

Dir-: direction signal

EN-: enable signal

You will need to connect a +5 volt power lead from your breakout board (or other driving circuit) to the terminal labeled +5.

As for the output terminals, you should be able to connect a +12 volt supply to the terminal labeled +24V (and that power supply's ground to the terminal labeled GND).

A+, A-, B+, B- are the terminals to which you would connect the 4 wires from your stepper motor. You stated that your motor is a "unipolar stepper", which probably means that it has 6 wires. You will have to choose 4 of those wires to hook up, and ignore two of the wires (put electrical tape on them to make sure that they don't short out). You would need to make a decision about whether to use a "full winding hookup" or a "half winding hookup" (see figures 9 and 10 of the document at Support for more details about that), but since you are using a relatively low voltage, you will probably find that the half winding hookup will work better for you.

You should be able to safely drive a 3V stepper with 12V using this driver, because the driver is designed to limit the current that can flow through the motor windings to a safe value (however, you will need to know what the rated winding current is for your motor in order to set the driver to the proper current value).

For a simple test setup, you could build the step and direction pulse generator circuit shown at Step and Direction Tester - Miscellaneous - Application Notes - Support, connecting the step signal to Pul- and the direction signal to Dir-, connecting a +5 volt power line to the +5 terminal, and jumpering the EN- terminal to the ground terminal of the 5V power supply. That tester would probably work with either the 1/8 microstepping or the 1/16 microstepping setting (when I built that circuit, I believe that it was putting out something like 4000 steps per second, which may be too fast for single- or half-stepping).

[chucketn2]

Board is finally drilled and populated with exception of the capacitor shown next to VR1 in Lucas' picture of the populated board. C8 I believe? I don't find it on kwackers parts list or schematic. Anyone have a clue as to what value it is?
I have searched this thread and haven't found a refference to it.

Chuck

[joegib]

Hi Chuck,

Lucas posted the final version of his PCB layout in Post #346 which included the 'Silk' as an attachment. This, I believe, is where the 'C8' capacitor first appeared. Lucas did say in Post #348:

There was also an error on the keypad connection and a 100nF decoupling cap has been added (more is better).
The tracks are larger also.

Luc.

I think C8 was what Lucas was referring to in the latter comment. Anyway, looking at Lucas's photo of his board (see Post #350), the red caps all seem to be of the same type and value. I used 100nF for C8 on my board and it works fine. Maybe you'd like to wait for Lucas to confirm this though.

Joe

[chucketn2]

Thanks Joe,
I'll add a 100 microfarad cap.

Chuck

[lucas]

Joegib is correct.

Thanks Joe,
I'll add a 100 microfarad cap.

Chuck

It should be a 100 nanofarad cap (preferably ceramic).

I added 3 capacitors to the original design and the info is in different posts.
Here's (finally) an overview and more info:

C6: input buffer elco: The capacitor values depend on the power supply, if you have a clean DC supply then the input cap C6 can be small, I used 220µ, 100µ would work also. Voltage depends on the supply voltage, use 20-30% margin.

C7 and C8: 100n decoupling capacitor

The value of C5 can be lower when C6 is present: 22 or 47µ is enough.

Luc.