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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    21

    Pcb router Thoughts Please...

    I'm wanting to build a small dremel based pcb router, maybe 12"X12" overall with a 10"X10" work area, similar to one of the widget masters. I have 2 small slide rails for the z axis, 2.5" travel. I have 2- 3/8 shafts and roller bearings for the y axis, (seem thin) I also just aquired 2- 1/2 shafts and 4 derlin bushing bearings for the x axis. I also have 1/2 acme screws and derlin nuts to fit. From what I have read these parts seem sufficient for the job to me.... . Does anyone see any "Improvements" to that style of machine I should try? Or warnings about common goof ups that aren't easy to see until its to late? Also from what I have read 1/2 is most used but Will 3/8 Aluminum plates/bars (I have some) be thick enough for the build?
    Thanks
    J

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    735
    Don't have much to add other then I've reciently got a wolfgang engenearing spindle (guy sells them on ebay). I've been using it to do some really intrecate ingraveing and I can say it's a HUGE improvement over what ever a dreml could do. There is a guy on youtube with some nice video's using one on a small mill as well.

    b.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    21
    I may get one later when I get "good" but right now I want to see if I can actually make a cnc machine that works, I'm not sure of things like what size the bearing mounting base and gantry arms should be for stability, I'm thinking 2.5" but I have no Idea... the bearings would almost touch, it just seems any more would cost alot of travel on the x axis. But thats why Im here asking. I cant afford to waste my aluminum... Its getting expensive

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    21
    I guess no replies means it should work... or is everyone just a little tight lipped about what may be considered secrets? Or is it no one likes me

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    21
    after some thought ... I'm going to build it out of wood first to make sure my ideas will work. Some aluminum and derlin, but mostly mahogany, I have some nice leftover 1x4's that are short. I wont use my long ones I may sell them to but steppers for my mini mill.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2420
    Not that I think building a CNC router is not a good idea (I have done one myself ) but for less than the price of the Dremel you could mod a printer to direct print PCB's, have a look here :

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30951

    and see what you think, the results are amazing, here is one I prepared earlier The chip is an Allegro A3986 the package is a TSSOP, VERY small to work with.

    Only downside is it is difficult (but not impossible) to do double sided.

    Russell.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Allegro002.jpg  

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    21
    That was going to be my project, but my mind got changed....I have a Roland stika vinyl cutter I use. It works pretty good my boards just have to be a little bigger. Last year I made a few boards in the shop, very excited about my projects I came in the house and started putting things together. Got Pneumonia the next day or so, and didn't get back out to the shop for about three or four weeks.... I forgot to dispose of the acid mixture. I'm still de-rusting all my tools. My Harley wheels and other expensive chrome rusted. My aluminum parts were oxidized.... I'm done with the acid thing. I know it was MY fault, and after that I'll never forget again. But I hate expensive mistakes, and that one was very expensive and required alot of work (still got more to do) to recover from.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1955
    I have thought a lot about the question - what to build my cnc router from. I have a lot more experience with wood, so this initially pushed me in that direction. (not that I am good at it, I just have more experience making mistakes)

    Anyway, I bought some scrap 3 x 3 x 1/4 in Al angle and started playing with it. After about 50 holes, I was increasingly confident in my ability to hand drill / tap it for M6 (about 1/4 in) screws. About that time, a friend loaned a small drill press to me, and I was able to do even better.

    I guess my not so straightforward point here, is that Al is not really much harder to work with than wood (maybe easier in some ways), and I think it will end up giving me a better machine. Changes are pretty easy, and it makes for a stiff machine. Steel of course would be even more stiff, but I am not ready to take on that task with hand tools and a miniature drill press.

    The mahogany I used in the past (Phillipine I think) is a nice wood, but I personnally think it is too soft to make a router frame. Maybe it is just me, but the stuff I had was not much different than using pine or douglas fir. If you want to stay with wood, maybe a hardwood veneer plywood might be better. I think a whole sheet of it at home depot is $ 50.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    21
    This is a very hard wood I have. You cant dent it with a hammer. Nails bend and screws break in it, I have to pre-drill. The guy I got it from said it was African mahogany but I really am not sure. It looks like mahogany and acts like red oak. but I think I'm just going to use the Aluminum, Its actually easier to work with.

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