[bob1112]

Well, we had to walk away from this machine to get some work done and back to it. We uncoupled the belt from spindle to make sure noise was from the trans. YEP. No need to run it, you can feel excessive back lash in the gears for some reason. I don;t think anything is blown up yet but don;t want to wait. We also do not want to throw several thousand ath new gear just yet.

We have the motor/trans assy on the bench and wondering how it comes apart?? Near as we can tell, the bottom drive pulley has to be pulled from the shaft, then remove the bottom access plate and go from there. Do I have this wrong? I have a puller on that pulley right now and it is going to take some serious force to get it off.

It just looks as though you cannot pull the motor up because there is a mount bolt that comes from inside the trans. Thanks for any help or diagrams you may be able to offer.

[JoBwan]

Viper,
My own experiences with HFO (Haas Factory Outlet) is to change the motor/gearbox as a complete unit. I say this, only because it is a balanced unit set at the factory. If you change one and not the other, you'll probably be doing this job again in about 6 months. I had a VF-10 go down three years ago. I changed the motor/gearbox assy,and it still runs like a new unit today. Cost' @ $7000.00 with $3500.00 credit for core charge.
Again, this only my opinion. Good luck. JoB

[serviceman]

do not pull the lower pulley remove the motor it comes straight up just be careful when you lift the motor you do not want to damage the motor gear once you have the motor off the top plate comes off and the whole thing will make sense from there.

[karlbushnell]

I have taken our older 1999 VF3 spindle motor out due to a squeeling lower bearing. I sent the motor to a rewind shop to have them hot tank it and replace the bearings. I took the transmission as well, and thats where things have slid sideways. My assumption was the motor shop had an induction heater...well they do but it is table top mounted for warming bearing only. Unfourtunately the old wheel puller with torch trick was used to no avail. I am guessing there is a .002-.003 interferance fit and will require some force to remove as well as some heat. Since this much heat was alredy used (sigh) I feel compelled to see this all the way thru as my guess is the seal is probably done. I originall wanted to deburr the corners of the gear as low gear has some nicked teeth from shifting gone wrong in the past..bad mac valve and such. Anyone have expiriance in removing this pully from the bottom of the transmission?

[Haas__man]

I would definately advise like JoBwan to buy a new unit from HFO and get your 50% exchange. If you seperate the motor from the transmission thenI'm quite certain that your HFO will no longer take the unit back as an exchange, and therefor you will be charged 100% instead. It's just not worth the risk.
Hope this helps.

[HuFlungDung]

How much room have you got behind the pulley for the puller?

Are there any threaded holes in the face of the pulley?

You'd need a fast acting puller because you need to move the pulley a long ways and you've only got a few seconds of heat differential to get it moving. A common mistake of amateurs is to use too small of a torch, and heat around the center of the pulley. That won't work at all. You need a 1" rosebud, oxyacetylene is hottest but Flamex will do. Heat round and round at the rim of the pulley. You must get the rim hot to make it pull the hub outwards so it will relax its grip on the shaft.

A heavy 3 jaw puller will be most stable, and you'd need it done up tight to start. Avoid pausing the torch directly over the puller tips because you don't want to wreck the puller jaws. Have a man ready with an impact socket to spin the screw quickly as soon as you hear it crack loose.