[Blluitt]

Hi Everyone, this newbie needs some help on the controls side of a CNC machine.

I stumbled across a 48x48x5" precix CNC router, which I couldn't pass up, and since I have experience with design and a little CNC programming from work, I thought I could handle it.

It looks nearly identical to this, except mine does NOT have the monitor and software on-board (just eliminate the monitor & attachment hardware sticking out). I only have handheld jog/start/stop control box.


It was probably built around 1997, takes only HPGL files as input and has bipolar stepper motors (3/6A @ 2.88/1.44 V). Everything works on it and I've fed it some basic HPGL files over the serial port to make sure the controller works.
I plan to use it for full 3d work, and after researching that HPGL is really only 2.5 axis, I think I just should just convert it to G-code instead of estimating the 3rd axis with some translator to get back to HPGL.

So here's my problem: I don't know what controller boards I need to buy to make this work with G-code, and hopefully keep the same stepper motors. I'd like to keep a budget under 1k for the retrofit.

Here's a shot of the entire inside of the controller box:


Back Panel of the controller with cables disconnected. (only use the x,y,z on the bottom row)


Better views of some of the boards:





and I managed to find the drawing of the stepper from the mfg (EAD).

[cabnet636]

i am sure you could use mach 3, we use wincnc and it may be a little further
than you need to go, mach three advertises on cnc zone and i am sure they would appreciate the link from here, i am sure theres a gecko for you, show us your machine jim

[Blluitt]

Jim, thanks for the response, but I've already tried a Mach3 Demo to see if I could get it talk with the machine controller and I didn't have any luck since Mach3 is really only sending out G-code commands as best I could figure and my CNC is wanting commmands in HPGL-in format.
I would like to get away with just a software solution, but I don't think I can.

I'm all in favor of using Gecko's if I can, but I don't have a clue of which ones to buy, or even how to hook them up. I look at my current controller and there's 5 or 6 different boards in there and I'm confused how all that gets replaced with 1 to 3 little gecko boards. Hopefully someone here can set me on the right path with hardware.

thanks!
Josh

[nwrepair1]

You should call Precix in Canada. The control will only do 2.5D. I have a belt drive 4x8 Precix from 2003 and it can't do true 3D. However, it can do programs from Enroute Pro and VCarve Pro 3D in 2.5D. Difference is that the control can't process all 3 axis at same time. Still does 3D work on flat stock. Did you get a book with machine? You should square the gantry to the table by adjusting the long gantry belts that run along the side of the table. True 3D controllers process X Y and Z simultaneously. You are not going to find that on small sign making machines. I just bought a NEE controller to retrofit my machine for $6,000. That's just the parts. Rethink your needs.
www.precix.com is the link...

[nwrepair1]

Wait! At 2:30AM I have another idea. Precix contollers need a Precix driver (Gcode format) to see the file in Gcode. Create a program in a cad cam that has Precix listed as a cam format. Also it is a DOS format for the file name. That means 9 spaces in length including the dot and file extension letters. All lower case.

[cabnet636]

i do not see any reason you cannot use mach 3, you will not have a file with out a cam package, i'll get a guy named joey on this forum to look at it and we can email you a file, however you should be able to move the gantry and z with the mach software have you shown this on mach,s forum on cnc zone and here

http://www.machsupport.com/artsoft/index/index.htm

and forum
http://www.machsupport.com/forum/ind...=2;sa=expand#2

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...ght=mach+forum

just a start jim

[Blluitt]

Jim - that's not a 25 pin input (how I wish it was a standard parallel port) but it's actually a 37-pin port that is the connector to the control panel that I have to job/start/stop/initialize the unit. If there was a way to convert this to a regular parallel port, then I would be all for it, but don't know where to start...
Since this has a 37pin and a serial, I was under the impression that Mach3 wouldn't work.

nwrepair1 - I've contacted precix and referred me to a 3rd party who would do the retrofit to make it a full g-code machine, but it would be over 10k, which is outside of my budget.
I saw on their website that they have G-code drivers available, but only for servo machines, but mine is a stepper (and probably pre G-code era too).

I appreciate all the input and suggestions. Keep em coming!
thanks,
Josh

[ger21]

All you should need is 3 Gecko G201, G202, or G203's, a breakout board and Mach3. Provided you can use the existing power supply. You can then get rid of everything else in there.

[cabnet636]

is i have a 37 pin connection, as i was on a dos controller and wincnc
(1200.00) was were i went to to get upgraded. i am sure you'll save money and have an up to date system by following gerrys lead jim

[Blluitt]

Ger- thanks for the recommendation. I thought I could do something like that, but wanted to make sure. I'll start gathering my parts list and will probably just build a complete new controller box and not mess with trying to salvage some of the older parts.

thanks to everyone and I'll be back once I finish the new controller build.. hopefully in a couple of weeks.

thanks again,
Josh

[cabnet636]

i spoke to him several times and he sells packages to some of the table builders, there are others but i could not get the ad list to work jim

http://candcnc.com/

[cabnet636]

hwlpful

http://campbelldesigns.net/breakout-...h2-3-files.php
jim

[Cut to the Bone]

If budget keeps you with Mach3 (it is a good system just a large learning curve) then I would go with the Gecko's and a break out from
http://cncbuildingblocks.com/
we use Eds boards and find that there the best on the market as well as having a great price.

Joey

[Jkirk3279]

I find this very interesting.

I also have a Precix 9000 that uses HPGL.

I've been looking for a new software package. But of course I'm limited to HPGL friendly software...

Is it possible to keep the existing steppers and run the router off these gecko boards?

[Jkirk3279]

Bueller? Bueller ?

{crickets...}

Anyway, I found a company that sells an upgrade box. It's clever enough.

Basically, you disconnect the Pendant, the manual control.

You plug this box into that socket. The box has it's own Pendant, so you don't sacrifice manual control.

Then you plug the box into your PC.

Send the job in Gcode, or HPGL, doesn't matter now.

The box takes the commands and converts them to manual jog shuttle impulses to the original controller.

The original controller then moves the stepper motors.

Thus you use the high voltage power supply in the controller, but don't feed computer data to it anymore.

It's a good solution. The box isn't expensive, but the custom software they sell with it IS.

I'd still like to do an official upgrade, complete with servos.

Somebody here HAS to have done this.

[mtrobregado]

Blluitt, just in case you have upgraded and removed that SMC-10 controller which is no use to you anymore. My friend, might be interested to buy it from you. Its for PRECIX 3000
the SMC-10 controller got damaged due to mishandling.

I posted a separate thread for this, "Looking for PRECIX controller"

[asti64]

Ger- thanks for the recommendation. I thought I could do something like that, but wanted to make sure. I'll start gathering my parts list and will probably just build a complete new controller box and not mess with trying to salvage some of the older parts.

thanks to everyone and I'll be back once I finish the new controller build.. hopefully in a couple of weeks.

thanks again,
Josh

Hi! I hope you are doing well. I saw this posting and i'm very interested in the outcome of your study. If you were able to made this work i'm very interested to how how you did it, and we may be able to come to a mutually advantageous agreement. If you have th etime, i'll appreciate your email at [email protected]. Hoping for your preferential response, have agood day!

[adirondack cncr]

hello everyone
i too have a precix that looks just like the one in this tread. i was wonder if anyone has come up with a economical solution. I am very interested in finding out what your solution was blluitt. thank you

[TAProwler]

You don't even need to buy Gecko's for this. All you need is a Break-Out-Board (BOB) of your choosing, Mach 3, and a computer to run Mach 3. That's it.

Those three little square boards on the lower left inside of your big box (from 1st pic) are the stepper motor driver boards. Figure out which card is the X, Y and Z buy tracing back the wires from the outputs on the back of your enclosure. It looks like those 3 boards send signals to the 3 bigger parrallel cards in the upper center. Those bigger cards are the power supplies to the stepper motors (taken from the main box power). The stepper contoller cards essentially tell each stepper motor when and how to move based on what the BOB tells it to (via step [STP] and direction [DIR] signals sent from the BOB). Those stepper cards are each built with a step and direction wire going to them somewhere. Figure out which two wires on each of those cards is the step and direction signal wire. Cut those wires off of the card, actually it looks like there are screw terminals to just remove the wires. You should be able to find (Google) info on the wiring of those stepper cards somewhere - but look close, they're probably labled. If not, take a close up pic of one and post it. We can probably figure it out from the pic.

Next, your new BOB instructions will tell you which outputs are each of your X, Y and Z step and direction outputs. Take those outputs and wire them to the step and direction inputs on each of your stepper driver cards (the wires that you just cut off).

There may be an enable signal that is required by each stepper card as well. It will be a wire that is common to all three cards. There will be an enable output on the new BOB. Cut and re-wire as described above. Post if you have questions about this.

Hook up the computer to the new BOB, load Mach 3, play with settings in the Mach ports and pins menu for a while and you will have a 3 axis machine for the cost of a BOB ($25-$250 depending on your taste), Mach 3 (not sure of the current cost) and any old 3Ghz pentium Dell computer you might have (you can buy refurbed machines all over ebay for less than $200). Make SURE it is at least a 3Ghz pentium. Anything less and Mach will give you "freezing" problems - sooner or later.

Problem solved.

Oh, you will also have to find a convenient place to mount your BOB inside the existing enclosure if you can, or you can make/buy a separate BOB enclosure and run the wires into your existing enclosure. Your choice. If you mount inside the existing enclosure, use insulated stand-offs to mount to the metal enclosure.

And, I'm not sure about the hand-held controller. But I do know Mach 3 can do it, and there's probably about 1,000 threads on CNC Zone that talks about hooking up a game controller to Mach 3.

R/Todd

[cabnet636]

best explanation i have seen yet!