Looking forward to it Ito.
Phil
Looking forward to it Ito.
Phil
HUH? Sorry i didn´t understood...
Try this link:Originally Posted by Ito-Brazil
For 5.25 drive connectors http://www.hardwarebook.net/connector/pc/bigpower.html
For 3.5 drive connectors
http://www.hardwarebook.net/connecto...mallpower.html
For motherboard connectors
http://www.hardwarebook.net/connecto...oardpower.html
Hope this helps...
Ito,
try this
for pc power supply mod. Second paragraph zip download.
Cheers.
note: I have not yet done the mod myself, so try at your own risk
mhel
"This is intentionally left blank."
Yo SLP PRLZYZ:
Th link got http://www.*************/downloadsli...loadslinks.htm
is that right?
The problem is not the conectors dudes, it´s the possible PCB cook damage... Can this power supply run without charge too? and now i know that i can just put the PC-AT 5V in the break out board, because it has a regulator onboard (kool isn´t it?)
To protect the motors i will put some power resistors, that i learned to calculate from Phill´s webpage. Now i am close to the end of my electronic project! WOW! I´ts so Kool!!!! I just can´t sleep! Tomorrow i will buy the electronic parts! YAHOOO !
I updated the webpage to include a link to a system block diagram.
http://webpages.charter.net/pminmo/cncelectronics.htm
Phil
Hi all.
Once again here.
I've noticed that the pdf "L297/8 Board Layout in pdf format" and the eagle files aren't aligned with the png version. Can you please check, and eventually supply the right ones ?
More, on the eagle files the width of wires is really little ( 0.01 ) is this ok ? It should not be bigger, as the current running on it are a bit higher ?
And least, but not last, how do I limit the current passing to the motors ?
With the unipolar it was easy, by calculating the right resistor, but here ?
Pigi
Pigi,
I think the L297/298 combo has a built in current limiter via
the trimpot the R16 on the layout from Phil's site.
mhel
"This is intentionally left blank."
Yes, I've seen it ( now)
Another question on the Break Out Board: I was planning to reduce the dimension, and eventually reroutate it to make it smaller.
Can I reduce the widht of every connection, as ( as far as I have understood ) there should be no high current on this board, bu only on the driver boards ?
Pigi
I'm not sure of the usefulness of making the break out board any smaller. All the connectors would end up squashed up together making wiring it up a fidley mess. But yes most of the traces could be thinner if you really want to do it.
Another question on BOB.
The resistor R8 R9 and R10 seems to be shorted (look at the attachement).
Is that correct ? What do they are needed for then ?
The idea on doing the traces more little was to clear a bit the circuit, and reduce the size of the board.
Here in my country the board are quite expensive
Pigifly,
You were correct on the .pdf file, the correct one is uploaded. The R8, R9, R10 was laid out that way intentionally. Start without those installed, if in a specific system there are noise issues on the enable line, but cutting the small shorting trace a resistor can be installed to create an RC filter on that line. As far as making smaller, probably, it was made that size more for the DIYer to do toner transfer.
Phil
Thanks pmimmo for your info, and for the pdf.
Did you managed to upload also the eagle files corrected ?
I'm driving crazy on rerouting the driver with the diodes, and I suppose that there could be some differences on some components.
I thought that the BOB drawed in this way was for the diyers toner guys.
Pigi
Pigi,
The eagle files are uploaded now. That was the old version of the files with no diodes and 10mil traces, you were correct. Keep me posted on your progress. I've had good luck with www.olimex.com. As a first time buyer, you can give them the eagle files and they will build the CAM files for free. A couple of notes if you do that. Eagle component libraries have some odd hole sizes and thin silk screen, they charge per drill bit change and a silk screen fix. But it just a couple of US dollars more. For 3 of the 297/297 boards it would be under $40 total including air fare, and silk screen fix and drill changes. That's around $13 per board. If you look at the 3977 pictures
http://webpages.charter.net/pminmo/proto3977.jpg , Olimex did those. I got 4 for under $40.
Phil
Many size of stepper motors have current at 2.5-3 A. But several motors have current at 6 A and rated torque is at 20 Nm.I did not find an electric circuit on this type motor. May you give me advice?Originally Posted by pminmo
It would take a lot of power to run those motors. What are you putting them on? Industrial machinery??? I.E. car manufacturings machines.
What is the proper TurboCNC setup for the 3 Channel Discrete Unipolar Board?
Cant get it working right
Regards
Michael.
Hello there:
Phill was talking about my motors:
Y = 2.6V / 3A - unipolar
X = 6V / 1.2 A - unipolar
What is those respective torque ?
O got it from VERY LARGE AND OLD printers. like 21" axis long (53 cm) 21" usable. 2 of them uses all space from my car´s back (picture atached)
Thanks guys!
Ito-BRAZIL
ITO,
I know of no way to convert the VA rating to torque, usually frame size is a good indicator.
Phil