[Vern Smith]

Hu,

That's a possibility although my machine locks up when the air pressure drops under 85 pounds.

SORCHEROR,

I'm not sure I understand you explanation on tool loading. I've always thought the only way to load a tool into the changer was to first hand load it into the spindle than go to MDI mode, type in the pocket you want to put it in, and hit ATC FWD or REV. I've never tried to shove them into the fingers as you seem to be referring to or I'm missing the point.

Vern

[HAILINHAAS]

Last night my TM-1P umbrella tool changer forgot where it was. The changer moved to the spindle and clamped onto a tool. Unfortunately, the spindle moved up before the changer retreated to it's home position. The result was ugly as one would expect. The spindle pulled the changer up about and inch or so before the fingers spread enough to release the tool with a huge bang. The machine alarmed out at about the same moment with code 125 - shuttle fault.

I did the recovery sequence with no problem and everything works although out of alignment. I'm sure everything can be straightened out and brought into specks but my concern is the switch/sensor/gizmo that failed and will doubtlessly fail again.

I would appreciate any information on this problem, and particularly what switch/sensor/gizmo has gone intermittent and needs immediate replacement.

Thanks Vern

Vern -
As I was reading this again .. it sounds if the spindle did not release the tool when it was suppose to. Have the tech check the tool release piston switches. There is a procedure he can do to make sure they are set correctly. I believe this is where the problem is.

[HAILINHAAS]

also have him check parameter 64 is set correctly too.

[Vern Smith]

He had to reset the positioning in setting 64 to get the bent plate back into alignment for the 7 pockets that are still usable. As an aside, changing setting 64 seems to affect all the existing tool length offsets.

The more I look at the tool changer sequence I have come to the conclusion too that the spindle did not let go of the tool. He did not check the release piston switches.

I purchased the service manual June 2007 96-0283 rev c. There is a section on the tool release piston assembly (page 10) which refers to the switches I assume you are talking about. I can't find anything in that section that gives any diagnostic procedures to check the switches. A previous poster referred to activating the tool changer while watching the diagnostic screen to check what is probably the switches you are talking about. I would appreciate it if you could point me in the right direction so I can check their operation. The first order of the day will be how one finds the diagnostic page and navigates through it. Better yet, section and page in the manual for the necessary information.

I ran the machine for 5 hours today without a problem. Of course, I held my breath at every tool change. Thanks for your interest in my Gremlins.

Vern

[awesome83]

Press the Parameter button twice, look in the left colum, the last two items should be drawbar open, drawbar closed.

I have the same manual. Honestly i hate the new manuals, everything is very spoty. 2005 and prevous manuals are much better. But i'll try to clean it up for you.

First that you will want to do is remove the head cover, i dont know if you have it off yet or what, but you should remove the fan off the top first. Then the head cover itself.

The next thing that i would do is check the TRP Height (Drawbar height). This is basically where you set how far the Tool Release Piston (TRP) will push the drawbar down. You have to set this first, before we can check the switches. P.22 has a good detail of what needs to be done. Basically you take a tool holder with a nice wide flat bottom and handle jog it down to a machined block of metal. Basically like setting a tool offset. The block justs needs to be snug, dont hammer into it. Without moving the machine, press mdi, and then go back to handle jog. That should have reset the values on the screen. Now jog up .100". next, press and hold the tool release button, the block should be tight. Next, jog up another .010 (so a total of .110) press and hold the tool release button, the block should be loose. If not you'll have to shim the TRP.

The TRP height should be good, usually it doesnt change unless your drawbar is weak, or it was misadjusted by someone.

I would next go to p.16 TRP Switch Adjustment
Skip to the adjustment procedure on p.17-p.19.

Hope this helps, I dont wanna blabble on if not interested in it, lol

[Vern Smith]

Please blabble on. I would like to do all the necessary procedures to check the draw bar functions while I have the cover and fan off. Sounds like a fun weekend project to me.

[HAILINHAAS]

Use this only to check the switches ... If any adjustments need to be done .. leave it to the tech ... that way he is responsible. : )

[HAILINHAAS]

Vern -

I trust, but must verify. Did you get any new tooling or pull studs lately?

Make sure you have the correct pull studs.

I remember something similair to this; where the person used the wrong pull studs and same thing happened.

[Geof]

Please blabble on......

blabble? Is that really a legitimate word?

[HuFlungDung]

That is a good point, HailinHaas. It would also be a shame to go through all the setting procedure with the wrong pullstud in for the test

I've had one supplier who seemingly could not look up the right crossover part number when I asked for Haas pull studs. They were close but had the wrong angle on the underside of the knob.

[HAILINHAAS]

What's nice is that there is a spec and picture of the pull stud on front of the machine .. at least there should be.

[Donkey Hotey]

blabble? Is that really a legitimate word?

I see that Geof is back.

[awesome83]

Let me know if you got what i said already, i will be willing to help out some more, no problem.

[Vern Smith]

I doubt if the problem is in the holder or pull stud. The holder is Techniks recommended by Haas and purchased through Haas' initial purchase tooling program. The pull stud is also from Techniks and I have been using both for 14 months. I did look over both for damage, chips, loose, etc and could find nothing.

I have some parts to finish but will do the procedures to check the TRP settings this evening. I love these community projects, let's everybody get involved and feel needed (which they certainly are)

Of course blabble is a word! The future of America use it every day while text messaging each other. The best translation I could get was blatant bubble blowing. awesome83 probably has a someone(s) under 16 in the house. Microsoft's spell checker didn't do well with it however. We all know what a stickler for details Geof is.

Vern

[Vern Smith]

Well, the gremlins seem to be at work again, believe it or not, my new manual is missing pages 15-16 and 17-18. This explains why I couldn't find anything on adjusting the switches. I think the information Hailinhaas attached to his last post covers it but I don't want to miss anything. If someone has a manual with these pages I would appreciate it if you could post them or fax them to me. The fax number comes through an answering machine but eventually the fax will pick up.

239-254-0974

Vern

[awesome83]

Here you go.

PRECHARGE ADJ.pdf

TRP SWITCH ADJ.pdf

[Vern Smith]

awesome83

Thanks, the drawings make this stuff a lot easier to identify. From your posting time I gather that you are on the left coast.

Vern

[Vern Smith]

The first test did not go well as described on page 21 of the service manual. With the spindle .1 above the zero point and the tool release button depressed the block was easily moved with a continuous air loss from the spindle. When I jogged down .01 to a position .09 above the block and hit the tool release button the block was not movable and there was no air loss.

If I understand the service manual correctly I need to place .01 shims under the TRP. Are these proprietary or special shims from Haas or can I cut some out of brass or steel shim stock? It looks like I will have to disarm the low air pressure alarm to check the adjustments on the clamp switches. Where do I go to unlock the parameters so I can change this setting as directed in the manual?

From the recommendations and suggestions in this thread I'm starting to think the TRP and it's settings/adjustments would be the first place one would look after a spindle has yanked a took out of the tool changer with enough force to bend the carousel or plate over 3/16 of an inch.

The manual is one of those all things to all machines tombs that is confusing at best and down right misleading at worst. We have 40 taper, 50 taper, horizontal, vertical, and in-line drive spindles all piled into the same section. I know I have a vertical and 40 taper. Do I have in-line drive as well? It's a TM-1 tool room mill.

[awesome83]

Your confusion is felt by everyone that owns those manuals, i have an older one that i will copy and post on here, no you dont have a in-line spindle.

Setting 7, Parameter lock must be off.

If you go to .095 is the block tight? Haas uses .010 shims (and thats the tolerance) so if its tight at .095 and loose at .105, i would say that you are good. The shims go on the trp bolt (if you remove the 4 bolts that hold the trp on, the bolt pushes the drawbar down, left hand threads).

[awesome83]

Here is the older procedure, same basic info. Disregard anything to due with inline spindles. Also i put a note on there about the low air delay.

The upper clamp switch (DB Closed) is very easy to set on your machine since you don't have Thru Spindle Coolant. With the tool clamped i just move the switch in till it trips and then just go in a little further.

The lower clamp switch (DB open) is the critical point and where most of the problems lie.

NEW TRP SWITCH ADJUSTMENT.pdf

Hope this helps, i'm sorry for the confusion.