I think you need to study the construction of a Variac, One, you cannot use multi-strand wire.
Or are you thinking of a Toroidal style?
You also do not state the VA (power rating) you intend designing for?
There is no real formula's for designing to a certain VA, most manuf. have their own rating figures for their product.
Also for the cost of picking up a used one on ebay or? I would not think it is worth it.
Al.
CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design
“Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
Albert E.