[Broken Balsa]

On the plans there are many places that thread bolts into the material. I am wondering is there any reason where practicle, you can just drill through and use a bolt with a washer and nut. It seems to me that this would be stronger as long as you used a good flat washer, maybe even a lock washer on the back of it.
I have only been working on this now for a couple of days but have most of the gantry frame cut out and some of it drilled. I made the adjusting rod blocks from UHMW which seems to work well and I have a large sheet of it so its avalible. I intend to build it to plan size and specs for the most part. I think I will turn down the pipe in a lathe to true it and get rid of any rough surface blemishes. Any way I would welcome any imput any one has. I am an accomplished r/c model builder but this is my first attempt at this. I have all the basic tools plus, table saw, table jig saw, band saw, belt sander, drill press plus hand tools. I find myself sometime looking at a part and wondering how it fits but if I look long enough it kind of comes together. Still I have to wonder if I'm right or not. I will put up pictures of my progress if I can figure out how to do it.The picture is yesterday and what I have cut out so far... any feed back is welcome...Ron

[tajord]

Hey Ron,

IMO based on my experience with my jgro, bolts, bolts & nuts or screws can work as long as they don't get in the way of any of the mechanics, some have said going the route with the bolts allow for disassembly & reassembly but this wasn't important in my build so i used screws and filled them all before painting it, a much cleaner look i think, but that's just me, i haven't had any issues in that area, my advice to you is it's mainly a matter of personal preference for the most part.

[Broken Balsa]

Thanks tajord. I was not planning on taking it apart when it is finished. I was going to use titebond resin glue along with the screws and bolt and filling sounds like a very nice touch. I will do that also. Fishing will interfear a little with the project but not to much. Wife says we will go up to the lakes with the motor home or else. Being retired has some advantage I guess. ...Ron

Quck update. Only got to work on the project part of the day but got some done. I made a jig for punching holes in the edge of the pieces. Works pretty well. Did get a little assembly done today. Added a picture that showes it plus some of the parts that are made...Ron

[Broken Balsa]

I got to spend a little more time on the project today. Got what I have done bolted together. If anyone reading this posting has a good picture of the bolt assembly on the bottom of the ganty that moves it back and forth, I would sure appreciate it. Anyway here are some pictures of what I did today. So far its been an enjoyable build.

[JOE65]

Here are some images, good shot of the gantry assembly.

[Broken Balsa]

Thanks JOE65. I am trying to visualize what the part looks like. I will make it from Delrin. I recieved a large block of it from my brother. Enough to do a lot of machines I'm thinking. I intend to use a .50" lead screw. I just have to figure out what start to use. I also am wondering if the delrin is threaded to recieve the lead screw and if so how do you thread it. I don't have that tap in my tool box. I guess I may have to go buy one if needed. The picture is of the block of delrin I got.

[JOE65]

Hereis a shot of the antibacklash nut assembly

[Broken Balsa]

Thats a good picture. Now I see what it looks like. For some reason I just could not see it from the plans. I will have to get a tap for what ever thread I decide on. Much thanks Joe65...Ron

[Broken Balsa]

I have come to the following as far as the lead screws and stepping motors go. I would accept any input as to mistakes I am about to make. Don’t need to do things twice or pay for mistakes if they can be avoided.

1/2" Four Bolt Flange Bearing
SKU: UCF201-08
These will come from,
http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/se...l?sfs=47e19780

½-10 single start acme from Enco and also their nuts.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=408-0220

couplers from dumpstercnc. An extra expense but I think very time saving.

http://www.dumpstercnc.com/acme_couplers.html

3-Axis SideStep CNC Stepper Motor Driver Kit From Probotix.

http://www.probotix.com/index.php?vi...&product_id=18

One thing I am not sure about is how many acme nuts to order or if I need them at all. Would appreciate help with that. I hope the equipment I listed above will work well. Any input gladly accepted….Ron

Small update....got the bearings placed on the Y axis and gave what is done so far a coat of sealer...

[Broken Balsa]

Got to spend time on the project today. Will just post a picture of what I did and enough said. I use the table saw to dado out the slots. I will fill the over run with a filler and it will go away.

[Broken Balsa]

Made progress over the week end. Ordered lead screws, flange bearings and couplers today. Will also go get the rails today. I ran out of 5/16x1.25 full thread bolts. This thing sure takes a lot of nuts and bolts. Just a few more parts to cut out and the entire gantry is done. Then cutting all those braces for the base and table. So far still fun though.

[Broken Balsa]

I got my rails yesterday and just had to stick in a set of them... the unit rides smooth and goes back and forth just like its suppose to. I think the lead screws will be here today. Going to attack the router mounting plate and holder today and then start on the base. Such fun....

[Broken Balsa]

Open to all suggestions, and if you have time please give me a brief as to why. What do you think the easiest system to program with is. I intend to cut out such things as wing ribs and parts for helecopters and planes. Just a little 3D stuff for my vacuum former such as cowles. It is going to be a steep learning curve and I know this but what might be the easiest to learn. Thanks...BB

[Broken Balsa]

Only got a couple of hours on it today but did get the base done and ready to seal. My tap for the acme 1/2 10 will be here tomorrow so I can get started on the nuts. Hope to also get the ends put on the base. So far so good as they say.

[Broken Balsa]

Not much time today but did get the ends installed. Beside glueing I placed a couple of 1/4 by 2.5 inch bolts with nuts on the back side to help the durablity since it supports quite a bit of movement. Going to the high lakes fishing next week so don't expect I will get a lot done.. I will have tomorrow to work on it however. As you can see by the picture only one end is sealed. Will get the other end later this evening....

[Broken Balsa]

Got the couplers today in the mail. They came from dumpster and while a little spendy they are really nice. Very fine workmanship and they will simplify hooking the motors to the lead screws. I built the table base today. Went together ok with no problems. I also got the gantry set up on the x pipes and they move nice and smooth. I would suggest that the dia. of the adjusting fixtures the pipes sit in, be board a little larger than the plans show. This makes adjustment and set up much easier. I am going to redo two of them and make them from Delrin I think. Pay very close attention to the placement of the bearing support bolts as to where you drill the holes in the 1.25 angle. It is important that they are drilled accurately or your bearings will not ride in contact with the rails. If they are done right then you can adjust the pipe rails to achieve a smooth movment of the carrage. Tomorrow I think I will build the cutting table and set it in place. I won't attach it as I want to get to the lead screw assembly. I was thinking about setting it on dowel pins with just two screws to hold it down so I can remove it to get to the lead screw and nut assembly. Will think on that a bit. Will post another picture tomorrow.

[Broken Balsa]

Happy Fathers Day to all of you.
I decided to go ahead and replace all the X axis adjusting block with Delrin. Much nicer and stronger. I have the table support just sitting there wedged in for looks. Might go out after dinner and build the table top. I also got the nut and slack adjuster made and installed in the Z axis. I will be glad when I make my last cut. Getting real tired of that fine sawdust. Its in everything. My flange bearings should be here wed. and I'm not going fishing until thur. so works out ok... will have them to install when I get back. While I would have taken book that everything was dead on I discoverd the end boards are off by 1/16" but the sides and rails are dead on. I doubt that will have any effect on anything so not worried about it. Its square enough that the table base slips right in there and looks good and is a nice snug fit. Good enough. BB

[tajord]

looking good BB, seems you'll be making chips fly by next week at latest, i think you'll be pleased with it when it's done, btw what type of leadscrews will you be using?

[Broken Balsa]

Hello Tajord: The project has come along quite well. As with any thing with more than two pieces one has little set backs and upsets and I have had a few. Nothing serious however. I can measure the movement on the X rails as the gantry moves back and forth so I will be adding a cross brace to the table. I am using acme .50-10 single start for lead screws. I would have liked to have gone with 2 start but the price was a bit spendy and it seems from what I have read this will work ok. If its not up to what is needed I can always modify it and use something else. I don't figure on having it running until August. Only have so much to work with a month and so must not get in a hurry. Its hard not to work on the project every chance I get. I can always tweak here and there for something to do however. I didn't like the UHMW for the adjusting blocks on the X axis. It just wasn't strong enough and was moving from the weight. The Delrin seems to work perfect. Nothing is moving now. I am still looking for an operating system for the machine. I have enough old computer parts avalible to me to not pay anything for that part of the project but the motors and controller are a bit expensive. Still trying to decide on which router to use (best bang for the buck). Thanks for reading my reports and if I do something really dumb, first remember I am 67 years old and then tell me I did something stupid. I'll try to remember what it was I was attempting to do in the first place.....BB

[Broken Balsa]

Well the table she is done. I did not know how the table was fasten to the base so I came up with this methode. I drilled a hole through the 1/2" base into the table and threaded them. I took the block and over drilled it and used its area to make a good pressure point and screwed the whole thing to gether. This way I can take it apart if some idiot (me) damages it with a router bit or in time it gets ugly. Made for a good solid connection between the two of them. Now I have to build two more nuts and anti backlash blocks and I will be ready for the motors next month. I ran the z axis all over the table and its true as near as I can tell. If its off its not enough to tell by my eye. When I get the router mounted with a bit I will know for sure. I think we are good there though. So I can give it a rest and quit breathing dust. Such fun.