[esmiller]

One last question.. atleast for tonight *GRIN* .. Where did you get 1.25" angle aluminum? I can find 1" and 1.5" but not 1.25" .. and I don't know how I would have to change to mounts to accomodate 1.5" angle aluminum..

Eddie

[stevec]

esmiller,
I got my 1.25 angle aluminum from Lowes.

jgro,
the anti-whip block that jmc was refering to has also baffled me. since I didn't understand the drawing I skipped this step and did not put one on mine. Is it a needed item or just a precaution? I don't have the motors mounted yet so I took a cordless drill and ran the Y screw axis with it on high speed and haven't noted any whipping of the leadscrew.

Also, Is the spindle mounting in your plans for a Dremel multipro brand tool or other? Could you give us some photos to show correct placement for all of the micro switches. THANK YOU!

This thing is growing! Thanks again for the plans jgro, you are the man!!!

Steve

[jgro]

esmiller,

My first design had a lot of flex. I first tried using 3/4" black pipe. It didn't work. That's when I went to 1 1/2" pipe. I bought my 1 1/4 aluminum angle from here: http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...owunits=inches

stevec,

The router mount in the plans was for a RotoZip. I don't have one for the Dremel. As for the limit switches, I kind of winged it when I did those and don't have any images showing where I put them before I dismantled my machine. Sorry. BTW, looking good!

jgro

[tbenefi33]

Newbe here very nice plans and detaild

[kywoodwrkr]

jgro,
When I downloaded the plans many of the detail sheets were left out.
Was this on purpose or is it operator error at this end?
Thanks.

[tbenefi33]

hello might be operatede error i had no problem down loading mine got all 53 pages unless there more page.

[tbenefi33]

let me refarase that not operated error might be something wrong with the server. Never can tell with pc.

[kywoodwrkr]

I got all 53 pages.
I couldn't find detl08,09,10,11,12,22,27,36.
Those are actually of third party vendor type items so that may be why I don't have them, or rather why they aren't available.
I guess I'll muddle through it somehow.
Hate to think I spent eight years in college for nothing!
Thanks.
DaveP

[kywoodwrkr]

I got all 53 pages.
I couldn't find detl08,09,10,11,12,22,27,36.
Those are actually of third party vendor type items so that may be why I don't have them, or rather why they aren't available.
I guess I'll muddle through it somehow.
Hate to think I spent eight years in college for nothing!
Thanks.
DaveP

[Jay C]

I got all 53 pages.
I couldn't find detl08,09,10,11,12,22,27,36.

Using the search in Adobe Reader I was able to find all of these on page 53:
dtl08: Stepper motor
dtl09: Coupler (3 needed one for each stepper)
dtl10: Y-axis lead screw 1/4-20" x 43.5"
dtl11: Flanged bearing
dtl12: .5x.75x36" aluminum hold down channel from www.rockler.com
dtl22: Y-axis lead screw 1/4-20" x 24.5"
dtl27: Skate ball bearings (as in in-line skating) need 24
dtl36: Z-axis lead screw 1/4-20" x 13.5"

Those are actually of third party vendor type items so that may be why I don't have them, or rather why they aren't available.
I guess I'll muddle through it somehow.
Hate to think I spent eight years in college for nothing!
Thanks.
DaveP

[SonicBlast]

Great set of plans, I am just starting to look it over now. I am thinking making one with a cutting area of 24x24. I'll post progress as well when I am able to start the project .

I was wondering if there was anyone in Arizona that might be able to help in cutting parts.

[Axel Dog]

First time poster! Plans look great! I am going to take a closer look at them tonight. I hope to make a larger machine. I'll keep watching.

A- Dog

[spalm]

Hey, Newbie here. I found this site a couple of weeks ago, and I not sure why but I just have got to build one of these. I've become possessed. Background is embedded electronics/software as a profession and woodworking/cabinet making as a passion.

I am using jgro’s design as a start. (Thank You jgro!!!) Plan to change a couple of things (of course). I wish to change the X and Z bearings to 1/2" drill rod and flanged bushings but I will stick with the roller skate bearings for now. Early testing shows me that the original design does not bind, but somehow seems a bit crude.

I have all the MDF, pipes, and aluminum cut and plan to order HobeyCNC controller (those Allegro drivers seem sweet) and their 200 oz steppers soon. I also have a 30 volt 26 Amp power supply. Tomorrow I start drilling/tapping the couple of thousand holes. It is weird for a woodworker to tap MDF. I usually use biscuits and glue.

I want to switch to 1/2" 10 ACME for the lead screws for speed and they just seem more professional. So here is my initial question;

How do I attach the lead screws? I have poked around this site and have learned “the lead screw should be supported at both ends and the motor should just be used to drive it”. Seems like sound advice to me. I plan to support at both ends and use spider type motor couplings. Jgro uses (at the non-motor end) a nut-washer-flanged bearing(s)-lock washer-nut combination. How is this? Do you really compress the lock washer against the bearing? It seems like the friction would be huge.

Second question; I think I will order the anti-backlash nuts from DunpsterCNC. How do I attach them? Why don’t they put larger flanges and mounting holes on them?

Third question, I have AutoCad at work which can produce dxf or stl files. Is Mach2 then all I need to drive this thing?

I might post pictures if it turns out OK.

Thanks,
Steve

[kywoodwrkr]

Steve,
I also was a little perplexed by the methodology of screwing the MDF together. I've experienced a lot of 'loosening' in the past.
If you think it over and decide to try some biscuits in some of the joinery please review your progress here.
I bought some of the McFeely screws for MDF joining.
Both 7mm and 4mm.
They look good but I'm just one who believes in some good glue and biscuits.

For anyones reference:
www.mcfeelys.com
mmd-0750 7x50mm step pilot drill bit $26.95
5040-csp-c 5mm x 40 mm connecting screw $4.66/C
7050-csp-c 7mm x 50mm connecting screw $7.00/C

And I like you could not find the detail on the various lead screw ends.
DaveP kywoodwrkr

[ger21]

Hey, Newbie here. I found this site a couple of weeks ago, and I not sure why but I just have got to build one of these. I've become possessed. Background is embedded electronics/software as a profession and woodworking/cabinet making as a passion.

I am using jgro’s design as a start. (Thank You jgro!!!) Plan to change a couple of things (of course). I wish to change the X and Z bearings to 1/2" drill rod and flanged bushings but I will stick with the roller skate bearings for now. Early testing shows me that the original design does not bind, but somehow seems a bit crude.

I have all the MDF, pipes, and aluminum cut and plan to order HobeyCNC controller (those Allegro drivers seem sweet) and their 200 oz steppers soon. I also have a 30 volt 26 Amp power supply. Tomorrow I start drilling/tapping the couple of thousand holes. It is weird for a woodworker to tap MDF. I usually use biscuits and glue.

I want to switch to 1/2" 10 ACME for the lead screws for speed and they just seem more professional. So here is my initial question;

How do I attach the lead screws? I have poked around this site and have learned “the lead screw should be supported at both ends and the motor should just be used to drive it”. Seems like sound advice to me. I plan to support at both ends and use spider type motor couplings. Jgro uses (at the non-motor end) a nut-washer-flanged bearing(s)-lock washer-nut combination. How is this? Do you really compress the lock washer against the bearing? It seems like the friction would be huge.

Second question; I think I will order the anti-backlash nuts from DunpsterCNC. How do I attach them? Why don’t they put larger flanges and mounting holes on them?

Third question, I have AutoCad at work which can produce dxf or stl files. Is Mach2 then all I need to drive this thing?

I might post pictures if it turns out OK.

Thanks,
Steve

1/2" drill rod will have a LOT of flex. You might want to rethink that.

As for Mach2, it won't do anything with .stl files. You'll have to get something like MeshCAM http://www.grzsoftware if you want to do 3D stuff. Mach2 will create g-code from 2D .dxf files. Or, you can try my free macro which exports g-code from inside AutoCAD. It will do quite a bit more than the Mach2 dxf converter. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8226

[gregmary]

I am new to this thread--I first wanted to thank John for his design, but more importantly thank him for the time he took to document it. I have built it and was amazed how easy it went together and how clean the plans were. Kudos John!!! I have had so much fun with this machine over the last six months I can't tell you.

I am embarking on my second generation machine incorporating some improvements I would like to make. I have attached some pictures of three areas I want to address in this design and would like to hear comments from anyone willing to ablige. The three areas are:

1.) Gas Pipe support-adjuster thing-a-ma-jigs: MDF is too weak for this function. I used an insert of PVC (I cut a piece of water pipe), then augmented this with nuts.
2.) The skate bearing work great for the Y and Z axis, but the length of the X made the play next to impossible to remove-I have addressed this with an additional set of skate bearings on the outboard side. This gives a three point of contact and works well.
3.) The gantry has a bit of side to side wobble. I have not addressed this, but think a couple of pieces of "angle iron" (I'd use aluminum) running vertically fixed to the outside of the gantry would fix this.

Attached are some photos to illustrate. Click on them to zoom in.

Greg - working on Gen 2.

P.S. Thanks again to John, I bow down to you!!!!

[esmiller]

Well, I am finally assembling my unit based on these plans!

A few bugs, such as having to drill the holes on the sides twice since i mis-read the measurements, and a mistake that is causing insuffucuent clearance on the Z axis, but all-in-all not bad!

got the Y axis moving, as a test, and it ran FANTASTICALLY! set up 0 backlash in Turbocnc, and still was unable to find any problems. I used a 4" caliper to measure movement, and it appeared to be exactly on base.

If my other axis turn out as well, I will be happy! glueing supports in to allow the bed to be flush with the top edge of the X axis endpieces to allow more clearance, and have yet to build the bed supports, but hopefully only a few more days until it is actually running !!

I will try to attach a photo.. I have since reversed the Y axis so is facing you after this photo was taken, and shortened the length of the X axis to 35", but the longer pipes leave me the option to expand later to a bigger unit...

probably a project I will undertake sooner than later.. HAHAHA

Eddie

[spalm]

Thanks for the replys.

Wow, 1/2" drill rod flexes more that 1/2" gas pipe? Never would of thought that. I'll give it more thought.

Spent the day (with two sick family members) drilling and then assembling the torsion boxes. Thank goodness for nail guns!

So the software goes like this (?) :
AutoCad -> MeshCam -> Mach2 -> MyMachine
or
AutoCad -> Ger21 macro -> Mach2 -> MyMachine
or
Rhino3D -> MeshCam -> Mach2 -> MyMachine

Is this right, always a three step process?

While I was posting this I noticed GregMary's post. Good sugestions. Looks like you have been using this for a while. Nice to know. Looks to me like you added support for the Y axis (the long axis) as jgro calls it. Is this so? It seems to be that the X and Y can be flipped as it depends on "how you look at it". Not picking, just want to make sure I understand.

Any advice on lead screw attachment? I really want help on this.

Thanks,
Steve

[esmiller]

Okay.. here are 2 more photos.. the first shows the mill with the Y axis turned around as it appears now.. the second shows my lack of clearance..

the clamps are holding the wood pieces the will support my bed when I lower it down.. not a great way of doing things, but it will work temporarily.

I cracked several pieces from tightening them too much, and want to get this thing to work cutting out new pieces !!

As you can see, I experimented with several different types and colors of paint.. I will probably go with the red when I get this thing finished totally...

Eddie

[gregmary]

For my lead screw I used 5/16" standard threaded rod. I then got a couple of 5/16" threaded couplers and drilled a set screw into one end, ground a flat on my stepper motor and used this as a coupler. With the anti-back lash arrangments JRGO describes it is surprisingly accurate. I was thinking of going to acme precision threaded rod, but the standard 18 threads per inch 5/16th worked real well.

Greg