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IndustryArena Forum > CNC Electronics > Stepper Motors / Drives > new control board wiring: multi-voltage input
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    82

    new control board wiring: multi-voltage input

    I bought a replacement control board setup (since Xylotex completely ignored my email after I bought from them asking troubleshooting questions). My new board requires 2 voltage inputs, a 7v and a 12v. The main control board has one 7v input while the breakout boards has in each; 7v and 12v. Most power supplies I've seen only has 1 voltage output though, including the Xylotex power supply I'm still using. I'm kind of confused how to make my new electronics wired?? Do I need a new power supply, which kind? Can I use a computer power supply?

    To make it run, I connected both 7v and 12v from the same power supply output (but runs hot so I only have it on for a short period of time). But doing so the motor only spins in one direction. Right goes right, left goes right. Or up goes up, down goes up. Any ideas?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    3655
    What new control board did you buy?

    I have a feeling that the 7V needs to be ONLY 7 volts for the board logic.

    You can get a Wall Wart cheap for the 7V.

    CR.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    I got the Univelop-Tech's board from eBay (5-axis one).
    http://stores.ebay.com/Univelop-Tech-LLC

    When wiring the breakout boards, I can get a signal from the control board if the 7v is only wired (2nd light turns on when I jog), but no motor movement. Just wiring the 12v doesn't do anything (no status light even). So it seems like the 7v (1amp) is to power the connection between the BOB and control board and the 12v (1-6amp) to power the motor.

    I'm still confused why I can only jog in one direction also. I tried 2 different BOBs and 2 different motors but still the same problem

    I contacted the seller but am eager to get this going as soon as possible, hopefully he'll reply soon too, but in the meantime was trying to get others' opinions on this as well

  4. #4
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    Mar 2008
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    What motors are you using? How many wires? How do you have them wired? Are you using a "straight through" db25 CABLE?

    CR.

  5. #5
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    Apr 2008
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    Using xylotex 269oz motors w/4 wires (bi-polar), DB25 straight-through (tested all pins). For now just wired the motors directly to the BOB using the factory short "pigtails" coming off the stepper motors, so they're not mounted on my CNC yet.

  6. #6
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    Mar 2008
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    3655
    Twelve volts for board logic may be too much. Twelve volts to run a 60 volt motor may be too little. You might get better motor action from either of Keling's 36 volt power supplies:

    http://kelinginc.net/SwitchingPowerSupply.html

    Are you using Mach3?

    CR.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    82
    ya, using Mach3. I just got a hold of the maker and other people that bought the same board. Says I need 2 different power supplies: 1 for the board (7v) and the other for the motors (12v) as suspected. I'll have to double check my pins/cables/connections to make sure my motors are wired correctly. Keeping my fingers cross... Thanks for the help so far!

  8. #8
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    Apr 2008
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    I'm working with the developer of the board with this issue, but thought I'd ask here too. I'm still having issues with the motor only turning in 1 direction: jogging left goes left, right goes left...same with all other axis (up = up & down = up, forward = forward & backwards = forward).

    I've tried the followings but all still 1 direction jogging:
    -use a different computer using a different operating system (1st desktop w/Vista, 2nd laptop w/XP)
    -swapped the cables between the control and breakout boards
    -swapped the BOB with other axis connections (still with all axis all goes in 1 direction only)

    Is there any settings in Mach3 I missed? Any other ideas why it would be doing this?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    6
    Hi Guys , I bought Univelop Drivers from ebay...Before I was useing Xylotex for my machinne...It is great driver...I never lived any problem..I needed to add 5th axis..So I bought Univelop from ebay 5 axis driver...It is waste of money...It says It will run 2.5a motors..which is a lie...Ta8435H gets so hot when I run 2.5A motors....I dont recommend these drivers to anyone...Also Is there any recommendation how i can keep ta8435H Ic in driver cooler..It already has heat sink...Still so hot...It gets so hot in first 5 minute...I run the system with 24V for motors which is very fair..They say it can run up to 36v...thanks..

  10. #10
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    Apr 2008
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    I was planning on running a fan on the heatsinks since I noticed the heat problem. Besides that, was there any issues other issues you encountered?

    On a semi-off topic, how can you run more axis w/o upgrading to a controller that can run more breakout-boards? Run 2 control boards on different LPT ports (ie: run a couple 3 axis boards = 6 axis)?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    6
    Quote Originally Posted by nicanor76 View Post
    I was planning on running a fan on the heatsinks since I noticed the heat problem. Besides that, was there any issues other issues you encountered?

    On a semi-off topic, how can you run more axis w/o upgrading to a controller that can run more breakout-boards? Run 2 control boards on different LPT ports (ie: run a couple 3 axis boards = 6 axis)?
    Hi , I will run 110V strong fan direct blowing over Driver..This will keep heat down as possible..It is normal driver gets hot however Univelop Under 2.5A condition no way to survive..It is a huge lie they say it will run 2.5A ..Actually It can run barely 1.5A...Beaware of that...

    Regarding 5 axis I am runing now..I give up their 5 axis set..I will only use their 1 Axis Driver + Their Optoisolated Breakout board + Plus 4 axis Xylotex...I tried and system works perfect as 5 axis..In same time I am optoisolateing Xylotex..Which Xylotex is not optoisolated....If their 1 axis driver burns because of heat issue then i will just replace their 1 axis driver board..Maybe buying heavey duty 3.0A or 5.0A driver ...We will see...Some people sugguste to use resistor for motor input lines..Which willl bring amp down..I believe it is not good option if you need high amper tourque...

    So far my 5 axis is working (1 univelop driver + 5 axis univelop interface board (opto isolated) + one 4 axis xylotex driver...My Pc has one port...I Use combined drivers as 5 axis as i said...

    I am very happy with xylotex product ..I am runing my machine for years without any problem....any question let me know for helping your setup...

    here is my custom build machine on youtube..

    [ame="http://youtube.com/watch?v=Kqt0tD5Q-YM"]http://youtube.com/watch?v=Kqt0tD5Q-YM[/ame]

    Hasan

  12. #12
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    Apr 2008
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    384
    I have a set of these boards and have checked out many things with the creator.

    The input marked 7V is fine running on about 10 or 12V. Don't go much over this as it may cause the regulator to overheat. It needs to be atleast 7V.

    The input marked 12V is your motor voltage. This can be upto 36V, but 36V is the absolute maximum. Do not go over this at all, it is best to leave a safety gap. I will be using around 24V, maybe 30V.

    They are setup for 1A per coil using two 0.8Ohm resistors. I personally changed mine to 2A per coil, which required removing the 0.8Ohm resistors and replacing them with 0.4Ohm resistors. I have only changed one upto now but it works fine with fan cooling.

    As for temperature, I'd suggest that you measure it. As long as the temperatures don't go over 80C it's fine. I found that mine was running at 50-60C stock without a fan. I now run mine with the extra current mentioned above and a small fan - It doesn't go over 50C and rarly goes over 40C. I will get a 50mm fan for each board and make a mounting plate to sit the fan right over where it's needed. I might also put a bigger heatsink on as the heatsink is too thin.

    They are pretty good boards and I managed to get 1500RPM with over 500RPM/s acceleration (No load) on a 4A Nema 23 stepper running at 2A / 24V.

    Good luck.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    6
    Quote Originally Posted by yngndrw View Post
    I have a set of these boards and have checked out many things with the creator.

    The input marked 7V is fine running on about 10 or 12V. Don't go much over this as it may cause the regulator to overheat. It needs to be atleast 7V.

    The input marked 12V is your motor voltage. This can be upto 36V, but 36V is the absolute maximum. Do not go over this at all, it is best to leave a safety gap. I will be using around 24V, maybe 30V.

    They are setup for 1A per coil using two 0.8Ohm resistors. I personally changed mine to 2A per coil, which required removing the 0.8Ohm resistors and replacing them with 0.4Ohm resistors. I have only changed one upto now but it works fine with fan cooling.

    As for temperature, I'd suggest that you measure it. As long as the temperatures don't go over 80C it's fine. I found that mine was running at 50-60C stock without a fan. I now run mine with the extra current mentioned above and a small fan - It doesn't go over 50C and rarly goes over 40C. I will get a 50mm fan for each board and make a mounting plate to sit the fan right over where it's needed. I might also put a bigger heatsink on as the heatsink is too thin.

    They are pretty good boards and I managed to get 1500RPM with over 500RPM/s acceleration (No load) on a 4A Nema 23 stepper running at 2A / 24V.

    Good luck.
    Thanks for the info..I think you have old boards...New Borads has 0.50Ohm resistor on them...Single axis Boards,, When I mesure It pulls apox 0.8A per coil...Maybe I will change them to 0.4ohm or 0.3ohm..I am using only their one axis board now..I got 110V 32cfm fan and blow strong cool air on them...

    Also They have a weak Ta8435h heat sinks ...I will try to make a nice custom heatsink...Their heatsink are so weak and doesnt have enough sourface to cool down..Also They are so thin..I will let you know when I add a big heatsink with 32cfm fan...Lets see how temprature will be....

    Thanks again for great info..

    Hasan

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    384
    I only got mine very recently so it should be the latest version. It does say V1.0 in the corner, near the step / direction input and jumper.

    The heatsink is definatly too thin to conduct the heat.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by yngndrw View Post
    I only got mine very recently so it should be the latest version. It does say V1.0 in the corner, near the step / direction input and jumper.

    The heatsink is definatly too thin to conduct the heat.
    Please check on the driver board..There will be two big resistor...If color is Green , black , silver and then Gold ..Than it means You have 0.50 Ohm...I think producer saw a lot of complain ..Now they are adding 0.50 Ohm ..Instead of 0.80 Ohm ..I added 32Cfm Fan 110 volt and test it..It is not hot as much before..Plus I will change the heat sink with a better one...are you trying to build 6 axis machine...? Why you are replaceing your xylotex? thanks..

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    384
    Actually I think I'm going blind at 19, I could have sworn that the first band was grey when I first looked. You are right it is 0.5Ohm.

    Oddly the creator didn't correct me on that either. Oh well I may aswell convert all of the boards regardless.

    I will probably get a set of these fans:
    http://www.jab-tech.com/Sunon-KDE120...n-pr-3908.html
    As they are 50mm, they will fit inside the width perfectly. They might be an option for you - I imagen that the 32cfm fan that you're using is a bit big ?

    I'm building a 3 axis router but wanted the extras to build a two axis rotary table. I never had a Xylotex system, this is my first system.

    I have only been able to measure 200mA, but that was with a multimeter - I don't think it likes the frequencies that the chopper works at. I will measure the current draw with my oscilloscope when I get around to it.

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