[ALAN2525]

I need to obtain a dovetail jig for making some small cabinet drawers, it just occured to me that rather than buying a factory built jig...I could cnc machine my own template from Acrylic and then make purpose made jigs for each part of the draw. If I need to remake the same size draw - less setup time too!

Has anyone done this b4 and if so would it be possible to obtain the files and details regarding router bit diameter and bearing sizes etc??

Alan

[ViperTX]

Well okay....but you could also use your CNC machine to do the routing of the dovetails without a jig...

[ALAN2525]

How would you suggest using a cnc machine to cut dovetails?

I would want traditional dovetails rather than something with rounded corners.

[ViperTX]

Ah...that's the problem....you'd have to stand the pieces on end...almost makes it worthwhile to just buy a Leigh dovetail jig.

I've seen the CNC machine dovetails and they are tight and very accurate...you can't even tell they are not traditionaly cut dovetails.

[penot]

It is really easy.... well, at least now.
I mounted a "fence" both on the top and the side of my joe2006 and whipped together a program to calculate the dove-tails and output g-code for it.
With about 30mm "overlap" of the router to the side, it is possible to make _really_ nice dove-tails on the cnc!
Yes, the piece has to be mounted to the side to be able to route the end, just as ViperTX sais.

They do not have to be equal in width. Placing and width is arbitrary, if you want that.
Half blind or fully through does not matter.
Contact me for pictures and code if it is still of interest (I noticed this thread while searching for if others have done what I just did, realizing that it may be a bit late...).

[Ed_R]

Perfect timing for me to find this thread this week! I'm about to build the frame and bed for my Solsylva belt-driven design ( stock from Dave's plans, no changes except a full-size router with a quick-change collet ) this weekend, and this discussion has convinced me to put a slot in the table bed so I can mount some things vertically for edgework and stuff. It'd be an easy mod to cut the slot and put a vise with wooden jaws under the table for holding the workpiece.

Do you guys use scrap wood to avoid tearout with these techniques?

I've also got a question on using 8th-inch shank bits with the quick-change collet. It's a half-inch collet, I can use a 1/4 inch reducer for smaller bits, but I'm not sure I'd trust a half-inch collet with a quarter-inch reducer with an eighth-inch reducer to use an eighth-inch bit. Sounds like a recipe for runout! I'll have to ask that question in a more appropriate area.

[jemmyell]

Perfect timing for me to find this thread this week! I'm about to build the frame and bed for my Solsylva belt-driven design ( stock from Dave's plans, no changes except a full-size router with a quick-change collet ) this weekend, and this discussion has convinced me to put a slot in the table bed so I can mount some things vertically for edgework and stuff. It'd be an easy mod to cut the slot and put a vise with wooden jaws under the table for holding the workpiece.

Do you guys use scrap wood to avoid tearout with these techniques?

I've also got a question on using 8th-inch shank bits with the quick-change collet. It's a half-inch collet, I can use a 1/4 inch reducer for smaller bits, but I'm not sure I'd trust a half-inch collet with a quarter-inch reducer with an eighth-inch reducer to use an eighth-inch bit. Sounds like a recipe for runout! I'll have to ask that question in a more appropriate area.

Look at the new PreciseBits collets if you have a Porter Cable router. They are not quick change, but will give you an ultra precision option for 1/8" micro tools.

-James

[Ed_R]

Yeah, I've got to call Ron. I have a PC 690 available, but it's not variable speed, and one thing I've noticed about how I approach building my cut files is that I tend to use only one bit because it's such a b*tch changing the bit in the middle of a run without moving the thing out of index.
I think I want to use the Hitachi MV12C or whatever that model is that Lowes has on sale for $180. There's a quick-change collet for it that uses a 5-32nds inch screw to tighten a ring collet around the bit that looks pretty nice but it's only available in half-inch size, with a quarter-inch reducer available. i don't know that I want to use two reducers plus the quick-change collet all at the same time!

By the way, you and I are going to have to do some serious talking. You're into what I wanna be! into!

[penot]

Yes, scrap to avoid tear out is "necessary", at least in my setup.
4-6mm plywood or MDF scrap works fine.

[Ed_R]

I don't have any problem with that.
The Solsylva belt design doesn't really allow the gantry to move past the end of the table, so maybe I can just cut a hole in the table itself. Gotta get creative, and it might be easier to integrate this into teh build rather than retrofit it later.
Great, that means I actually have to THINK.

Um, if yo uguys see or smell smoke coming from the general area of Dallas, ignore it.