[jwillhite]

How are you getting your punch dead on the spot you want to drill? I can cut with the best of them (with a guide) but I'm racking my brain on how to get that punch on the exact spot I want it.

Also how is the stacking and drilling going? Are you just clamping them square? And what speed do you have the drill press set for drilling steel? I don't think it would matter but noobs like me want to know.

Thanks for the words of encouragement... thought I would be farther along by now..

As far as drilling the holes what seems to be working best for me is to find the cleanest piece of steel then layout a grid on it with a straight edge and square. Each line corresponding to either the center of the slot or the vertical(in my case) line the holes fall on. I tried useing a punch to mark the steel for the Z-axis and that didn't work as well as I thought it would.. For the large X pieces I just clamped them together then lowered the drill bit to the surface of the steel spun it around a couple of time with my hand to make a mark and adjusted tell it looked good. Also I drilled my holes at 3/8" which is 1/16" over the 5/16" bolts I've used so as long as I can maintain +/- 1/16 I should be good to go... worked great so far.

Clamping the pieces together and drilling through both seems to be the way to go as I only had to lay everything out once. As far as the rpm I just followed the chart on the inside of the drill press I bought.. so 1100 rpm's for a 3/8" bit in steel.

I'm just making it up as I go so if you have a better method in mind let me know I still need to drill the holes in my Y-axis plate.

[CarveOne]

Here are the latest pics:



The X and Z axis's are pretty much complete, just need to do the Y.

I did learn something about drilling through steel, best not to skimp on the bits. Thought I was getting a pretty good deal on some "titanium coated" drill bits at Harbor Freight... had the plate's doubled up and the first 4 holes were a bear I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't cut right... went to home depot and bought an expensive cobalt bit for 10$ yeah that pretty much solved the problem, it cut through the steel like butter. I'm sure most of the people reading this already learned the above but if any of you are thinking about drilling some holes save yourself a headach and buy the best bits you can get ahold of.

My experience with only one $60 115 piece set of TiN coated drills from Harbor Freight was that they have a number of problems:

1. So hard they snap off easily.
2. They are not straight. The worst drill was a 1/4" that was even bent into a spiral by being caught in some machinery that pinched it.
3. The flutes are cut so deep that the drills are too flexy.
4. The cutting edges have a geometry that does more sliding in steel and aluminum than cutting.

Won't be buying any more of them, but I have seen other people who say the set they bought are not this way at all.

CarveOne

[jwillhite]

2. They are not straight. The worst drill was a 1/4" that was even bent into a spiral by being caught in some machinery that pinched it.
3. The flutes are cut so deep that the drills are too flexy.
4. The cutting edges have a geometry that does more sliding in steel and aluminum than cutting.
CarveOne

You nailed it, the issue I was having was the bit would go about 3/16" into the steel then start to squeal loudely and seeze up. I think the bit just wasn't straight enough or there was something subtley wrong with the geometry, maybe a quality control issue they have. I paid 15$ for a 29 pc. set(on sale), guess I should have expected the quality would be low given the price... usually get what you pay for.

[FandZ]

Thanks for the words of encouragement... thought I would be farther along by now..


I'm just making it up as I go so if you have a better method in mind let me know I still need to drill the holes in my Y-axis plate.

Well you had to wait for the 80/20 but I think you are making good progress. What does a few weeks either way matter in the grand scale of things?

I'm not going to start ordering parts for another week or 2. And then I'm pretty sure it'll take me a few months before I make my first cnc cut. So you are flying by my standards lol

I'm going to find what is the best way to punch and drill on the exact spot. I have a few ideas using 2 digital caliper, some clamps, and a punch but there must be ab easier way.

The carzy thing about building a CNC is all the things you have to do that are so hard to do by hand would be so easy to do on a cnc if it were built...arghhh

[CarveOne]

Thanks for the words of encouragement... thought I would be farther along by now..

[snip]

I'm just making it up as I go so if you have a better method in mind let me know I still need to drill the holes in my Y-axis plate.

If you scribe cross lines where you want to punch a mark for drilling you can use a tool like this one. I have one of these optical center punches that I use when I want to do a better job of hole location. http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5781 It works very well, but there have been times that it can't fit in a cramped location.

CarveOne

[FandZ]

If you scribe cross lines where you want to punch a mark for drilling you can use a tool like this one. I have one of these optical center punches that I use when I want to do a better job of hole location. http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5781 It works very well, but there have been times that it can't fit in a cramped location.

CarveOne

I hate to jack Joshes thread but could you write more information on scribe crossing lines. My google searches isn't making anything clearer for me. How and what would you use to scribe cross lines say down a 4 inch wide peace of hot rolled steel? Or in my case 1x1x1/4th piece of aluminum angle.

I'll definitely pick up the Optical Punch Set.

Chris

[CarveOne]

I hate to jack Joshes thread but could you write more information on scribe crossing lines. My google searches isn't making anything clearer for me. How and what would you use to scribe cross lines say down a 4 inch wide peace of hot rolled steel? Or in my case 1x1x1/4th piece of aluminum angle.

I'll definitely pick up the Optical Punch Set.

Chris

A carbide scribe is what you use to scribe the lines. Anything harder than the steel or aluminum is sufficient though. I use an Xacto knife with a #11 blade when I can't find my scribe. General (brand name) makes the scribes and you can get them at home improvement centers like Lowes and Home Depot and hardware stores. Grizzly.com has a punch and scribe set for $11.95 http://www.grizzly.com/products/t10014

A low cost machinist square set is useful for helping to lay out the scribe lines. http://www.grizzly.com/products/h2993 The lines should be just deep enough to see them enough to locate the punch and can be just a small X at each hole location. To make the scribe lines easier to see, you can get some Dykem layout fluid. http://www.freemansupply.com/DykemBlueLayoutFlu.htm to paint it with.

You can sometimes find lower prices elsewhere, so consider these sites as just informational references.


CarveOne

[FandZ]

A low cost machinist square set is useful for helping to lay out the scribe lines. http://www.grizzly.com/products/h2993 The lines should be just deep enough to see them enough to locate the punch and can be just a small X at each hole location. To make the scribe lines easier to see, you can get some Dykem layout fluid. http://www.freemansupply.com/DykemBlueLayoutFlu.htm to paint it with.

You can sometimes find lower prices elsewhere, so consider these sites as just informational references.


CarveOne

THanks a lot for your reply and links, Makes my shopping easier More tools yummy. I also posted in one of the machine working threads. They gave some great replies on using a digital caliper to scribe with.

Looks like I'll be using a little from yours and theirs methods to get my wholes. Here's a link if anyone want to read their suggestions. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69977

[CarveOne]

I regularly use the digital or dial caliper for scribing aluminum or brass materials but not for steel. Steel will dull the tips of the caliper jaws.

You will find many more uses for the machinist squares. I could even find uses for a second set and will probably get one.

CarveOne

[jsheerin]

You can also use a sharpie marker instead of dykem. When you scribe the line, you remove the sharpie in a narrow line and you can see shiny metal. I use calipers to do this on steel all the time, but then again I don't have the most expensive calipers in the world. I also don't press really hard - just enough to make a light line that I can see. It only has to last long enough to center punch it.

[CarveOne]

You can also use a sharpie marker instead of dykem. When you scribe the line, you remove the sharpie in a narrow line and you can see shiny metal. I use calipers to do this on steel all the time, but then again I don't have the most expensive calipers in the world. I also don't press really hard - just enough to make a light line that I can see. It only has to last long enough to center punch it.

Yes, I see your point about low cost calipers. Fortunately, I don't have any of the really expensive calipers to test the longevity versus the $12.95usd 6" calipers from China. I do know that the cheap ones are hardened steel though. I just didn't want to recommend that anyone use their best tools for this and have the whole machinist community come down on me.

CarveOne

[TOTALLYRC]

Yes, I see your point about low cost calipers. Fortunately, I don't have any of the really expensive calipers to test the longevity versus the $12.95usd 6" calipers from China. I do know that the cheap ones are hardened steel though. I just didn't want to recommend that anyone use their best tools for this and have the whole machinist community come down on me.

CarveOne

Death by machinst is not covered by your lif insurance policy during the holiday season. During warm weather it is not a problem.

LOL
Mike

[Nikonauts]

i'm in for quite a lot less budget than yours...

MYR$5000 = US$1400

i'm sure you can do it.

[FandZ]

Any updates on your machine or are you just having too much fun creating to posy back?

I've started my build and am progressing nicely. I need to start a build thread but I'm too lazy to take any pictures lol. So far I have my x axis going and loving it. Just wish I could take off from work for a week and finish it in one go.

Anyways, would love to read an update about your machine.

[jwillhite]

Any updates on your machine or are you just having too much fun creating to posy back?

I've started my build and am progressing nicely. I need to start a build thread but I'm too lazy to take any pictures lol. So far I have my x axis going and loving it. Just wish I could take off from work for a week and finish it in one go.

Anyways, would love to read an update about your machine.

Hey I'm back!... First it was the holidays and visiting family then the last couple of weeks I've been slamed with work. Looks like I'll have a chance to get back on it this afternoon. I'll definately post some pictures of my progress, I'm excited to get this thing working.

Got any video/pics of your X-Axis in action? I didn't see anything up on your thread.

-Josh

[dan dimock]

I have been working on building a small machine. I needs help with my Z axis.
Anyone that has plans they could post, it would help.

Dan

[FandZ]

Hey I'm back!... First it was the holidays and visiting family then the last couple of weeks I've been slamed with work. Looks like I'll have a chance to get back on it this afternoon. I'll definately post some pictures of my progress, I'm excited to get this thing working.

Got any video/pics of your X-Axis in action? I didn't see anything up on your thread.

-Josh

Nope, sure don't. But when I say have it going, I mean it is on rails and can move very smoothly...lol My table is done, just a few holes to drill. and so are my X axis. I'll probably post a youtube video and start a build thread.

Here are some pictures of my roller design that I posted in another thread.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...5&d=1231986189

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...4&d=1231986189

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...6&d=1231986189

I'm looking forward to your next update.


Chris

[jwillhite]

I have been working on building a small machine. I needs help with my Z axis.
Anyone that has plans they could post, it would help.

Dan

Dan,

I keep meaning to post my cad files.. I'l try and have them up tomorrow. I have to reinstall Inventor to organize the assembly and make sure I've got the most up to date file.

I'm on to the fun part of building now so its difficult to sit down at the computer

-Josh

[jwillhite]

Nope, sure don't. But when I say have it going, I mean it is on rails and can move very smoothly...lol My table is done, just a few holes to drill. and so are my X axis. I'll probably post a youtube video and start a build thread.

Here are some pictures of my roller design that I posted in another thread.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...5&d=1231986189

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...4&d=1231986189

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...6&d=1231986189

I'm looking forward to your next update.


Chris

Cool idea for the linear bearings, man bet that really cut down on the cost of your build. Do you think wear on the bearing surface will be an issue? Is the tubing aluminum or something else? Can't wait to see the machine put together.

-Josh

[jwillhite]

Got the rolling assembly complete!





A word of advise for anyone building a similar machine.... I didn't put enough thought into the order that the pieces would need to go together and leaving room for bearing adjustment so I ended having to take the thing apart and put it together several different times.

Now that its all dialed in I think it will end up making a pretty good cnc machine. The structure is very stiff.. standing on the gantry and bouncing up and down verticaly yields zero noticable deflection. If I hold the bottom of the gantry in place and apply pressure perpendicular to the face of the top steel plate I can't get any flex. However if I hold one side of the gantry in place and apply pressure to the other I'm getting just the slightest deflection. I'm a little disapointed by that I'm not sure where its flexing, the bearings seem to be tight to the surface of the plate everywhere and according to the deflection calculator I don't think I should be able to apply enough pressure by hand to notice anything... Maybe I'll play around with the bearings some more..

Feels good to have something to show for the time and money I've put into this.