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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking > MetalWork Discussion > Any tricks for drilling a centered hole in the end of a rod?
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    23

    Any tricks for drilling a centered hole in the end of a rod?

    I have a piece of 1/2" hardened steel rod from a printer carriage, and I want to drill and tap a hole on each end of it to mount it to a frame. I have an X2 mini mill and cheap drill press at my disposal.

    Are there any tricks to getting the hole centered on the end of the rod? Anything I should know?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
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    1237
    You need a dial indicator. Mount the indicater in the mill spindle and move the table while turning the indicator until it reads zero all sides.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    48
    How hard is the material? As a general rule, if you take a file to it and the file does not remove any material you are wasting your time trying to drill and tap it.

  4. #4
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    Mar 2007
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    I have a dial indicator and could center it in my mill -- if the piece wasn't 4 feet long. Sorry for not saying that earlier. It won't fit in my mill the with the end pointing up at the end mill.

    I'll check the hardness issue.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    264
    The easiest way would be to find a shop with a lathe. Might cost you a few bucks, but that would be the correct way to do it.

    Mike

  6. #6
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    Mar 2007
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    Of course you're right, and if it comes to that, I will, but I am still open to any advice or suggestions.

  7. #7
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    Jan 2004
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    3154
    If it is through hard, no one can tap it without an EDM.
    www.integratedmechanical.ca

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    887
    if you cannot drill and tap the rod itself, can you make some pinch clamps to mount the rod into and then mount eh pinch clamps where you need it? Or passably bore some holes where you want the bar mounted so that its a really tight press type fit? Press the bar into the bored holes with a tad bit of lock tight and it wont go anywhere. Just trying to figure out another method of skinning the cat..... with what you have.....

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    158
    As far as centering the hole:
    Take a larger piece of material, say 1" square, and drill it through jus a bit smaller than tap drill. Then drill and ream it for a snug slip over shaft a good 1" to 1 1/2" deep. Slide it on the end of the shaft and run tap drill through into shaft. The longer you can make this slide on drill bushing the straighter it will keep you.

    As for hardness of the shaft, if it is case hardened, you have several options for that. If it is thru hardened....they're right it is edm time.
    I hate deburring.....
    Lets go (insert favorite hobby here)

  10. #10
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    Mar 2007
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    23
    Aha, that was what I was looking for. Thanks.

    And yes, clamps are an option, if this fails.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    887
    one suggestion, if the material is really hard. Try heating up the ends to glowing red. Then allow it to air cool. This will soften the material to allow you to hopefully drill and tap it.

    EDIT
    If you go with the above suggestion with the drilling and boring into a block. Remember NOT to remove, or move the machine. (I know, hard to do) but this will help insure that you are in the center of the HOLE that was drilled and bored.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    158
    Quote Originally Posted by Fixittt View Post
    If you go with the above suggestion with the drilling and boring into a block. Remember NOT to remove, or move the machine. (I know, hard to do) but this will help insure that you are in the center of the HOLE that was drilled and bored.
    Huh? Not really sure what you mean by this, but I've actually done this with a hand drill. Of course doing it in a machine will be more precise.
    I hate deburring.....
    Lets go (insert favorite hobby here)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    887
    Quote Originally Posted by ALLtra Mach View Post
    As far as centering the hole:
    Take a larger piece of material, say 1" square, and drill it through jus a bit smaller than tap drill. Then drill and ream it for a snug slip over shaft a good 1" to 1 1/2" deep. Slide it on the end of the shaft and run tap drill through into shaft. The longer you can make this slide on drill bushing the straighter it will keep you.

    As for hardness of the shaft, if it is case hardened, you have several options for that. If it is thru hardened....they're right it is edm time.
    This is what I was refering to....

    as for heating up the bar ends. You would have to use a torch.

    maybe some meaning got lost somewhere

  14. #14
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    Mar 2007
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    Sorry, fixittt -- I read this thread before my morning coffee and misunderstood.

  15. #15
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    Mar 2008
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    683
    Quote Originally Posted by Fixittt View Post
    This is what I was refering to....

    as for heating up the bar ends. You would have to use a torch.

    maybe some meaning got lost somewhere
    I would bet that the shaft is just case hardened or chromed and that should grind (sand) off (keep it cool though). As for making a drill jig with the block, I like it. Otherwise....off to a lathe shop.

    Warrenb

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    2985
    Another option might be to counter bore the piece it will mount to slightly. You can use that hole to locate the shaft and then the screw will only be holding it in. Then you can get it close by hand to drill and tap and then use an oversize clearance hole to pass the screw through into the shaft.

    Make sense?

    Matt

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    48
    One more option for drilling using a mill; Depending on your mill configuration, it is possible on many knee mills to rotate the head and ram so the axis of the spindle is NOT over the table. The part can be clamped to the side of the table and hang down below. It would have to be a larger knee mill to work on the end of a 4ft part... but just thought I would through out the idea.

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