[Dark-Angel]

I was wondering if theres a flood coolant system thats ready to go that would work with a minitech mill, pan splash guard, pump and any thing else i need. And what is a good brand of coolant that wont harm the minitech mill and that i can wash underwater with out having to worry about toxic stuff splashing or going in sewers.

[nanopile]

I have used compressed air but then noone should be without glasses that cover absolutley everything so ther is no chance for bouncing stuff to come in from the side to the eyes becahse it flies small metallic parts all over.

Another way is water but then the metal will corrode alittle if it is such a metal.
Can also use ultrasound washers to was the parts if you use alittle bit of oil

[LeeWay]

My system is just a cheap solvent tank from HF. Probably $49. It came with the tank, pump and flexible nozzle. I added a valve, some hose, and modified the tank for the hose and drain.
I use Koolmist 77. I am able to powder coat parts without having to wash them after machining. I do sand them some, but not all parts get sanded. It does not interfere with PC, so it is some good stuff for me.

The only drawback is that it will break down polycarbonate if given half a chance. It simply wicks into the material and reduces its impact resistance.
I imagine that larger machines use a better type of polycarbonate that may be coated on one side or both sides to resist any coolant leeching in.

It is said to be non toxic and the chemicals are inert. It also says to mix 4 ounces of coolant with a gallon of water. I probably use just a little less than that. Never have any rust on the machine or in the chips left in the tray.

[Team Pierson]

Koolmist 77 seems to have a few drawbacks. I wouldn't mess around with anything that you have to worry about. I'd go with Blaser BC 230 coolant. It's about as close as it comes to "mix it and forget it". Human, machine and environmentally safe. Check out a review on the stuff at http://www.cncreport.com/product-rev...oes-it-cut-it/

[bigtoad170]

I've also been using koolmist 77 for years I like it because of how clean the parts come off and it never has irritated my skin or lungs.
Usually if I'm running aluminum and not hogging compressed air works great
Team pierson I've also heard good things about Blasocut.

[Team Pierson]

bigtoad... maybe you can confirm or correct this. I had a neighbor that switched coolants and it started to turn his stainless steel guide covers black. I'm thinking it was koolmist, but I might be confused with another. Any experience with that?

[LeeWay]

I haven't used any stainless. I haven't noticed any staining other than when it dries, it may leave a blue spot. It can be wiped off though.

[jetpig1]

I use 2 - 5 gallon buckets and some tubing connected to the loc link coolant hose and nozzle setup. Works like a champ, no hassle, blasts coolant. A pump from an aquarium could be used to run the coolant from the lower tank to the upper one for about $30 or so, but I just use an empty coffee can and scoop it up every hour or so of machining.

[email protected]

[jetpig1]

I use a detergent base coolant,many are available, clean parts, good lube in the cut. Misters are nice, but I like breathing air only.

[rpeterk]

I have been using coolmist 77 for about 10 years now and use it in both misting and flood. I use it misting on the cnc mill for mostly aluminum and use it in a flood application in the haas lathe. I also use it on the cold saw and doall horizontal bandsaw. Parts come off clean and on the cold saw its nice because once dry you can mig weld right over it and no porosity problems. I have 1 job that uses allot of 1x065 square tube with all kinds of angles and having to clean cutting oil off all the parts would kill the job. Yes there are probably better cutting oils out there but it is easy and works for everything I need it to. Need more simple things in life.

bob kasper

[Dark-Angel]

any sugestion for a good flood pan that would catch all the coolant, that can support a cnc and have a place to hook up some tubing? maybe even a flood table.

Are coolant reusable? like if i collact the coolant i can reuse it for more machining or once used it over?

Dont think im gonna go with misting, like the other one has said, i love natural air. I live in an appartment so air circulation isnt great.

[nanopile]

Hehe, i made a temporary airventilationsystem using a wodden frame to vent the air.
But then that is mostly for the soldering i do, that smoke isnt supposed to be good to breathe.

[MrStainless]

I can't comment on the chemistry, but I have seen Auto Windscreen Washer Pumps linked into small cnc systems. They are easy to integrate (On when Cutter Rotating or On when in Motion).
When you think how durable they are in the life of a vehicle, they will easily pay back.

Bill

[bigtoad170]

No never seemed to have a problem with stainless and koolmist.

[fredhh47]

You can buy a complete flood coolant system from Manhatten Supply or McMaster-Carr, but will cost about $300 and take up quite a bit of space. Also, the tank holds 10 gallons of coolant or more and the pump is serious overkill. If size is an issue (you have a CNC in an apartment?) then here's what I would do. First go to Sam's Club, Wal-Mart, or a kitchen supply store and get a good sturdy heavy-duty aluminum baking (cookie) sheet, the kind with the edges rolled up about 3/4" to 1", but be sure it is large enough for the entire mill to be over the sheet. That's your chip tray, catch pan, whatever you want to call it. Next, check out McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) for a thing called a "condensate pump". It's built just like a coolant tank/pump combo, but much smaller. Make sure that you get one that runs on 120 volts, as some are wired for 220v. While you're at it, get a small coolant spray nozzle and some clear vinyl hose, about 1/4 or 3/8 inside diameter. Look in the tubing section for a threaded fitting for the size hose you buy, they're available in everything from pvc to stainless steel. A plastic one will work, but brass or stainless steel will last longer. Don't buy a plain steel one. It can be straight, but a right angle one would take up less room, but it may clog easier. You choose. The threaded end should have a 1/8 or 1/4 NPT thread. You will probably need a pipe tap for that size, especially if the fitting is plastic, so get one of those. You can get a cheapo one at a hardware store if you prefer, you probably won't need to use it many times. Take the aluminum cookie sheet and determine where the machine is going to sit on it, maybe mark the footprint in magic marker. Use a ball pein hammer and a shot bag or block of soft wood to make a dimple about 1/2" deep in a spot along one edge (maybe the middle of the back edge?) where you want the drain to be. This is important, so give it careful consideration. You don't want it under one of the machine feet or where large amounts of chips may fall directly. Also, you'll have a fitting hanging out the bottom, so be aware of that as well. You need to be careful with the hammer so as to not thin the aluminum significantly. Be gentle and patient. In the bottom of the dimple, drill a hole smaller than the tables call for for the size pipe thread. Enlarge it with a round file until you can just start the tap, and carefully screw the tap in only a couple or three turns. If you go too far, the fitting won't fit. If the fitting won't start, screw the tap in a little further. You don't want the open end of the fitting sticking up above the surface of the cookie sheet (something to consider when you're pounding that dimple into the sheet), unless you fancy having a fishpond of coolant sitting under your machine. Place the cookie sheet on your table (machine base or whatever you're using to support your mill) with the fitting installed and place the machine on it. You may need supports under the points where the machine sits if you're using a machine base, so don't just put your mill on an unsupported cookie sheet and expect it to support the weight. Also, and this is quite important, isolate the points of contact between the machine and the cookie sheet using pads of hard rubber, pvc or something non-conductive. If you don't, the steel base of the machine and the aluminum of the cookie sheet will react and corrode like crazy. The cookie sheet will be the first to go, and you won't notice until you find a puddle of coolant on the floor. Once you have the machine set up on the "catch tray" hook up the condensate pump to the spray nozzle to supply the coolant to the part, and a piece of vinyl hose to return the coolant to the pump tank. Use some GOOP, or tub caulk around the projecting end of the fitting in the dimple, so that coolant doesn't seep around the fitting, but don't block the opening of the fitting or build a mound of caulk around it. Then put a grocery-store bought stainless steel "Kurly-kate" pot scrubber pad over the end of the fitting to keep chips out of the return hose, and consider putting a gas-line filter in the supply line from the tank to the nozzle to keep fines from clogging up the nozzle. You'll probably have to wire up a cord for the condensate pump, and could put a switch in the cord line if you wanted. To make it more elegant, a small relay could be used to start the pump every time the spindle starts. I have used a system like this on a tabletop CNC (DYNA-MYTE CNC) and it works well. Use a water soluble, oil-based coolant, also available from McMaster-Carr, in the cutting fluids section, and mix it "thin". I like it to look like skim milk when it is mixed up. About one cup to 5 gallons or 2 ounces to a gallon of water, adjust to suit. It takes a lot of agitation to mix, so make it in a gallon jug you can cap and shake the dickens out of. Don't overfill the tank, it will only hold a quart or two, but keep enough coolant handy so you can add some from time to time. The water will eventually evaporate (that's the "coolant" part), so if the coolant starts looking like cream, just add water, not mixed up coolant. Also, there may be a float switch on the condensate tank that you'll have to disable. Just make sure the pump runs continuously when you turn it on, even if it is nearly empty. If the float switch is working, the tank will ONLY run when it is nearly full, it's designed that way. You don't need or want that feature, so get rid of it. There you have it, a small, self-contained, recycling coolant system. You might save some money by scrounging around at a shop that services air conditioners or furnaces, as they usually replace the condensate tank if they update the system, and may have some used ones on hand. (Remember, get one that runs on 110v). Also, possibly check out EBAY, the purveyor of just about everything. Most condensate pumps have a built-in check valve, so the coolant doesn't tend to run back down to the tank when you shut it off. Which means almost instant starting coolant spray. Cool! The lip on the tray also would allow you to put side and back chip/spray shields in place without having to use extensive brackets and supports.

[Dark-Angel]

thanks for the intructions. i found this dont know if it could work http://www.hydrofarm.com/pb_detail.php?itemid=943# plus i i could get some fitings on it that would filter the large derbis in the table.