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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > Cheap 1500W Chinese spindle, experiences?
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  1. #681
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    238

    cutting

    Got the mounts made and tested the spindle cutting some .25 alum.24000 rpm and 60 inches a minute.
    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4g6GF3oARac"]YouTube- chinese spindle cutting alum[/nomedia]

  2. #682
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    3447
    Looks good! How do you feel it went?

  3. #683
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    238
    I was happy with it . I was using an old 4 flute used up bit.

  4. #684
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    624
    Quote Originally Posted by dnelso View Post
    I was happy with it . I was using an old 4 flute used up bit.
    24000K is too fast for a 4 flute.!!
    Get your self a single flute bit for cutting Ali, stand back and be amazed how easy this spindle chews thru.!!

  5. #685
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    58

    Cord

    What gage cord is everyone using on the 2.2Kw spindle. I'm thinking it should be 16 but it doesn't want to fit the strain relief. 18 seems light. Also, how do you get the damn solder terminal out of the housing? I got mine from Love-happy and I removed what looks to be the retaining screw and it doesn't want to some out. I've given it as much force as I'm comfortable.

  6. #686
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1602
    18 gage wire is rated for 10 amps and the 2.2 KW spindle is rated at 8 amps so it should be fine.

    bob

  7. #687
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    624
    Quote Originally Posted by scobob View Post
    What gage cord is everyone using on the 2.2Kw spindle. I'm thinking it should be 16 but it doesn't want to fit the strain relief. 18 seems light. Also, how do you get the damn solder terminal out of the housing? I got mine from Love-happy and I removed what looks to be the retaining screw and it doesn't want to some out. I've given it as much force as I'm comfortable.
    I used shielded 16 and i had to strip a bit of the sheilding back with a sharp blade and then to seal and tidy up i finished it off with heat shrink.

    My solder terminal just loosely slipped out so cant help with that prob. . sorry. . . more force maybe.?

  8. #688
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by hemsworthlad View Post
    I used shielded 16 and i had to strip a bit of the sheilding back with a sharp blade and then to seal and tidy up i finished it off with heat shrink.

    My solder terminal just loosely slipped out so cant help with that prob. . sorry. . . more force maybe.?
    Thanks for the quick replies. I've got 16 TPE so I'll drop to 18 and give that a shot.

    Thanks again! Nice knowing there's people out there experiencing the same things.

  9. #689
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    384
    Quote Originally Posted by scobob View Post
    Also, how do you get the damn solder terminal out of the housing? I got mine from Love-happy and I removed what looks to be the retaining screw and it doesn't want to some out. I've given it as much force as I'm comfortable.
    This confused me as well.

    I hammered mine out and broke it a bit.
    After it came out, I was able to look at it and found it's actually a bayonet connector - Remove the screw, twist it slightly then pull.

  10. #690
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    396
    when I power up the Huanyang HY02D223B VFD the flashing sign says E o u S what does that mean? It's been running without any problem for months until now.

  11. #691
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    396
    Is it possible to enter programing state in E.ou.S state?
    I press on the prog button for 2 min and nothing happend. So sad I don't have a clue

  12. #692
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    58
    How is everyone wiring the terminal? The terminal has 1-2-3 on it but how does this relate to U-V-W ? Is it simply 1->U, 2->V, 3->W?

  13. #693
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    0

    difference between air & water cooled spindles

    Hi there,
    could anyone pls explain me the difference between the air & water cooled spindles...obviously one uses air and the other one water for cooling, but whats the effect of this. I guess the water cooled one is maybe a bit less noisy?
    Also, do I need anything else for running the air cooled one, or is it just the integrated fan that cools it down?

    thanks for explaining

  14. #694
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    624
    Quote Originally Posted by taigfraeser View Post
    Hi there,
    could anyone pls explain me the difference between the air & water cooled spindles...obviously one uses air and the other one water for cooling, but whats the effect of this. I guess the water cooled one is maybe a bit less noisy?
    Also, do I need anything else for running the air cooled one, or is it just the integrated fan that cools it down?

    thanks for explaining
    The main advantage is that you can run a water colled spindle for longer periods of time without worrie or fear of overheating.!
    This also helps or should help with extending bearing life compared to a air cooled version.
    Then there's the obvious far less noise which can be a big plus, it certainly is for me and it's some thing that you have to hear to belive esp compared to a router.!!

    hope this helps.

  15. #695
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1166
    Quote Originally Posted by hemsworthlad View Post
    The main advantage is that you can run a water colled spindle for longer periods of time without worrie or fear of overheating.!
    This also helps or should help with extending bearing life compared to a air cooled version.
    I don't think this is necessarily true. Do you have any information to back this up? I would argue that if the spindles are both designed correctly (which is questionable in this case...), that both would reach thermal equilibrium (constant temperature) at the same temperature - the temp the bearings need to run at. If you run the bearings cooler on the water cooled spindle by running more water and over-cooling it, the tolerances won't be right and bearing life might go down instead of up.

    What I don't know is how varying speed on the air cooled would effect the cooling. I would think that less heat would be generated at lower speeds in the bearings and so the lower amount of air flow from the fan turning at lower speeds would still maintain the bearings at the correct temperature, but I'm not sure on that one. On the other hand the water cooled spindle might need the flow rate reduced to get proper cooling at lower speeds, but once again I'm not sure on that. Monitoring the temperature would let you know for sure.

  16. #696
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    624
    Quote Originally Posted by jsheerin View Post
    I don't think this is necessarily true. Do you have any information to back this up?
    Didnt realise i needed to back it up.? . . . after all i,m not trying to sell him the bloody thing.!!

  17. #697
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1166
    You don't have to back it up. I just think you're wrong (based on my explanation above) but am not 100% sure, so if you have some back up for what you said, I'm all for hearing it. That's all. :>

  18. #698
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    396
    I wire mine in any order if the motor goes reverse instead of forward I would just swap the orders.
    as far as watercool goes. I would prefer air cool it is easier to clean, while the water cool one becomes cloggy after a while and for me it is a hazzle to remove builds up inside. unless you put special liquid instead of tap water and it is closed system. btw anyone here knows how to get rid of builds up inside the motor and the hose?
    Hmm... maybe that explain E.ou.n. cost me 5 pcs of $38 endmills a real pain!
    well I'm running hitachi now.

  19. #699
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1660
    I think I'd be trusting water cooled spindle to be easier to control in tempurature over a air cooled unit. Simply by varying the water flow rate you could adjust the temp. It's independant of the spindle rpm [which is not the case w/ most air cooled units]. This should give a wider range of rpm as at slow speed where heating can occur the water flow would still be up, same goes for higher rpm. Measuring Delta T [outlet temp less inlet temp] would be a great indicator of how much additional heat is being removed and if it changes at various speeds, it could be set up to alarm etc etc.

    My air cooled Ekstrom spindle has a limited duty cycle at the top rpm range. I think it's unlimited at 15k and only 30 minutes at 18k. It's an air cooled spindle [2.2kW]. It has a thermsistor for overtemp, but thats all your able to monitor [compared to a Delta T measurement off a water cooled unit]

    Fwiw

    JFG
    JerryFlyGuy
    The more I know... the more I realize I don't
    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  20. #700
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    1166
    Thanks for the info. So it appears that Helmsworthlad is right and my thinking is a bit off. My assumption was that they would spec a max rpm and design the fan to cool it indefinitely at that rpm, but evidently that is not always the case. If it was, I'd think the air cooled would be simpler - just turn it on and cut instead of having to plumb everything.

    I'd think you'd want to monitor actual temperature at the outlet of the spindle and control the flow rate based on that. So you could set your desired temp to run at and the water cooling system would maintain it within the cooling capacity of the system.

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