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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    214

    What kind of router (spindle)?

    So I'm looking for a router with a fixed removable base and maybe (don't really need it all that much) a plunge base (doesn't have to be a kit if bases could be added on later). I'll need the fixed base to cut and drill the parts for my future cnc and the plunge base might come in handy to drill (but no real necessity for it since I can probably get away with an electric hand drill), and then I'll be able to use the router as the spindle.

    My budget is $200.... $250 tops.

    It doesn't have to be a kit, but that would be the preference, unless someone has a better idea or thinks I should buy them separately. If I can buy them all separately and maintain $250 budget that would be just as good. I'm all ears )

    I'll use it for wood, plastic, foam and thin aluminum on buildyourcnc.com CNC that I'll build from the instructions on the website. How big should the router be? What voltage, rpms and hp am I looking for? Things like that... I know next to nothing about routers. Do I need a big router to perform those tasks or should I go with something like RotoZip?

    Anyone has any recommendations? I'm open for any and all ideas.


    -BK

  2. #2
    Ive got a craftsman plunge router with the removable base on mine $129 CND
    it works pretty good , it will handle a 1/2" endmill and light cuts on aluminum , when i push it to a few hundred ipm it doesnt take to long to machine a part out ,
    others may recommend higher quality routers but for my use the craftsman has proven its worth , and when i do kill it ,then it wont hurt my wallet to replace it
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    214
    What do you think of these?

    HITACHI KM12VC 2.25 HP FIXED/PLUNGE BASE ROUTER KIT

    Porter-Cable 892 2-1/4 Peak HP Router Kit

    Porter Cable 893PK 2-1/4 HP Router Kit

    DeWalt DW618B3E VS 3 Base Router Kit

  4. #4
    they make good routers from what i understand , but i've got zero experience with them
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    214
    Everyone says that Hitachi makes the quiet ones, Porter Cable seems to be the most expensive, DeWalt.... I see that in all stores. Not sure which one to go for....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    578
    bkboggy

    here is a hitachi 2.25 hp for $120 http://www.tools-plus.com/hitachi-m1..._term=HTCM12VC

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    214
    I found this kit, just for a bit more:

    http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...UQBAP&v=glance

    Same version router.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    214
    It won't be too big or heavy for my cnc, right? Will it also do okay with foam? It is variable speed after all.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    58

    go for it!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by bkboggy View Post
    I found this kit, just for a bit more:

    http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...UQBAP&v=glance

    Same version router.
    I have a Hitachi on my system....never looked back. I also purchased the router with the base just in case I wanted to do manual work with it. The price is right and you won't regret it.

    groov

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    214
    Everyone seems to praise how quiet Hitachi routers are, is that true? Also, between Hitachi, Porter Cable and DeWalt.... Hitachi is the best choise? I just don't want to have to buy another router for a while.

    Should I get one of the part replacement plans form amazon? There's 2 ($24.99) and 1 ($14.99) year plan.

    http://www.amazon.com/2-Year-Replace...l_sp_SVC_1_img

    http://www.amazon.com/1-Year-Replace...l_sp_SVC_2_img

    Or should the limited 5 year warranty on the item itself be just fine?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    214
    Should I go with a lower HP router or higher HP router for the materials I will work with? (lots of wood, some plastic, lots of foam and some metal)

    The one that everyone seems to like around here is

    http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-6...R5WTE5XWNB9W7K


    or should I go with that Hitachi one?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    214
    Well, not getting anymore answers from anyone, so I'll just go ahead and go with that Hitachi kit. There's only 4 left and it's at good price.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    578
    bkboggy
    I think you will be pleased with the Hitachi.... Your ears sure will... I used to build material routers in 1980-90's. We started with Stanley brand in on our systems but upgraded to Porter cable after that line dissappeared. If at the time Hitachi was available I would have used them. The decibles in a Portercable 3.5, 2.5, or 1.25 was very high.
    Pretty much any router of quality will do a bang up job on the uses you require. with foam you will never replace it. Metal is another subject. We used the Porter cable on cold rolled and exotic metals as well...held up suprising well under those conditions but I have seen a year or two on usage before they were tossed or rebuilt. On softer non metallics 5 years would be average.

    Since I didnt have Hitachi to compare I can speak to the lifespan. However I think Joe's 4x4 uses it and he has logged a lot of hours on MDF and plastics with great results.

    In Summary, Good choice going with the Hitachi.

    Bob

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    214
    Thanks Bob, sounds like I made the right choise. Now I just need to find the right bits or maybe a whole bit set to work on foam, wood, plastic and some light metal (I'm not going to work on the metal any time soon).

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    578
    For the manual build I would just buy a cemented carbide set with bearings so you can follow the contour of a template. any standard set will work and will have all you need to get the job done. For future needs in cnc get solid carbide as you will not need the bearing and these will hold up longer in wood and various other materials. However the cost is much higher. We did use cemented in my previous job even on metals though but the variety of sizes was very limited

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    322

    Did you buy the Hitachi?

    That is a very good router, but PreciseBits.com sells addon collets and collet nuts that turn a Porter Cable router into a real spindle with a runout spec of less than .0005 (yes 3 zeros...)

    -James
    James Leonard - www.DragonCNC.com - www.LeonardCNCSoftware.com - www.CorelDRAWCadCam.com - www.LeonardMusicalInstruments.com

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    214
    blackbeard52 -- it's not a manual build, it's a CNC.

    James - Yes, I bought the router kit. Hope it's a good one.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    578

    Posted by bkboggy

    If I need a real one, where would be a good place to get it cheaply? (But something that will last, of course). As a side question to that, where is a good place to buy tools and such.

    2. Would it be better to buy a cheap drill press over a plunge router? Like this one:

    Amazon.com: Grizzly G7942 5 Speed Baby Drill...
    3. Where's a good/cheap place to buy MDF? Would home depot have it? What sizes should I be getting (including thickness).

    4. There is R-1 and R-2 floating around. Which one are you building and why?

    5. How much would it cost me to build one? The total costs (not including tools).
    Ok in your earlier post you indicated or at least implied you were going to use the router manually to route out the frame components...or may be I misunderstood.....Anyway good luck on the build.

    Bob

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    214
    Oh, yes. You're correct on that part.

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