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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    601

    Another TM-1 enclosure

    Well this enclosure isn't nearly as fancy as some that have been posted here, it should work.

    It took 40' 1x1 alum tube, 40' 1x1 alum angle, 3 sheets of coroplast, 3.5 tubes of silicone, over 100 pop rivets, and some time. I hope some of the coolant will stay in the machine now!

    I made the front as wide as the machine, and removable sides to keep the abillity to run oversized parts, and have forklift access. The hardest part was trying to keep things sort of straight while utilising the chip extensions, as they flop all over the place.

    I have 2 big "cheats" in this design, 1. On the left side where the servo sticks out, I only made a 3 sided box and overlapped the 2 panels. 2. The enclosure is rectangular and the factory chip pan has several funky angles, to fill in the gap I simply left 2 flaps on my door to cover them.

    I also siliconed a piece of coroplast to the side of the panel to keep some of the spray off. Some day I may lengthen the wires and move the control out another 12".
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    On all equipment there are 2 levers...
    Lever "A", and Lever F'in "B"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    447
    Nice work, you will find the floor much easier to keep clean now. I assume coroplast is a building material, can I find it at Home Depot?

    Vern

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    Quote Originally Posted by Vern Smith View Post
    Nice work, you will find the floor much easier to keep clean now. I assume coroplast is a building material, can I find it at Home Depot?

    Vern
    At Home Depot it may be called Tenplast.

    Works really well for this kind of thing; cut, score, bend and pop rivet. The US Postal Services uses boxes made of Coroplast it is surprisingly durable.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    447
    If it's plastic with a sort of honey combed interior I think I know what you mean. The sign industry uses it a lot of temporary signs.

    Vern

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    Quote Originally Posted by Vern Smith View Post
    If it's plastic with a sort of honey combed interior I think I know what you mean. The sign industry uses it a lot of temporary signs.

    Vern
    That's the stuff; incredibly useful.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    158
    Not to burst your bubble but coroplast burns quite easily. I'd have to wonder if a hot chip doesn't set that stuff on fire. I use a ton of that material in my sign business. Cheap and easy to work with but I'm not so sure it's best suited for a chip guard. Looks good though!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    I have had hot chips, that is almost red hot chips from steel, melt into the coroplast but never had anything catch. Actually the biggest hazard I found with hot chips is that they embed firmly and when you then use your hand to sweep the chips off the surface you get a nice slice across your fingers.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    601
    I used aluminum and coroplast for the good strength to weight ratio. The whole thing only weighs about 50 pounds. I made the frame with 2 out riggers so I could add some screw legs, but they don't seem to be needed, and I'll probably cut them off. I'll probably wait another day or 2 to make sure the silicone has fully cured before I hit everything with coolant. The 1st thing I want to make is a coolant ring with multiple nozzels.
    On all equipment there are 2 levers...
    Lever "A", and Lever F'in "B"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    158
    If anyone wants to buy coroplast don't buy it from Home depot buy it from a sign or plastic supplier. It's half the price

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    69
    our machine also leaks badly from the "Y" axis switch box!
    coolant drips down onto it and runs out thru the gap
    has anyone made a covering for this area?
    if so how have you covered it?
    any photo's that show it?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    601
    Quote Originally Posted by riverracer View Post
    our machine also leaks badly from the "Y" axis switch box!
    coolant drips down onto it and runs out thru the gap
    has anyone made a covering for this area?
    if so how have you covered it?
    any photo's that show it?
    Mine was the same way. On the install the Haas tech cut up a pop can and siliconed it on. It was wide enough to fill in the gaps on the side of the switch, then he made 2 vertical cuts and formed the middle to go over the top of the switch cover. This stopped most of the leaks.
    On all equipment there are 2 levers...
    Lever "A", and Lever F'in "B"

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