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Results 281 to 300 of 308
  1. #281
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    776
    NOW, it's not easy to say,
    1) May be it was tube with defect
    2) May be something was wrong with water cooling

    When you have tube - new one or already installed in laser, ALWAYS inspect it and if you see ANY bubbles inside glass, scrathes, and etc - take pictures and send to supplier.

  2. #282
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    27
    When the tube is broken with the high temperature, the CO2 gas is out of the tube .
    Using glue to attach the broken parts don't resolve .
    You must to buy a new one....

    I know because I broke my first tube after 3 hour usage.
    Atelier FEDERICO - http://federico.pro

  3. #283
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    39
    Hello.

    Any email where to ask for a quotation to York Laser? ON the site only chat contact is possible and when I try they are off-line.

    Thx. Manolo.

  4. #284
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1258
    They have it listed on their website:

    Contact Us - york laser
    Email: [email protected]

    Zax.

  5. #285
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    39
    Ooops. I clicked on "about us" instead looking somewhere else. My fault.

    Thank you.



    Quote Originally Posted by zax15uk View Post
    They have it listed on their website:

    Contact Us - york laser
    Email: [email protected]

    Zax.

  6. #286
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    17

    Please help

    Hi everyone,

    We have a problem with our laser se9060
    Few days ago water in laser tube was frozen and laser tube, when water
    defrost, was destroyed. We changed a new laser tube and everything
    worked fine one day. We were cutting some materials, turned of laser
    for few minutes. Then we turn it on again and imported new drawing the
    laser doesn't cut anything.
    All motors are working- we can move a laser head accros a table. Laser
    display screen also works, we can download anything to a laser, it
    cuts a shape, but with no power at all
    When we open a laser tube and press "laser" button for testing beam-
    NO SPARKLING in a laser tube at ALL !!!
    What could be a problem?
    Laser tube should be good, because it is changed to a new one and
    worked properly for few days.
    Maybe it is something with a supply unit ? I opened it and were is 2
    red led lamps and they don't work when a laser is turned on. maybe
    there is something else/ I taked a few photos inside, but don't know how to share. Could ent privately. maybe you could
    see anything wrong?
    Please help- we need a solution quickly to save our orders and clients

  7. #287
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    8
    One place to check is the water flow safety switch.
    It is possible that it is not working properly

    If you follow the tubing you will find it.

    I dont know how it works but it seems like it is very simple.
    (if you open it up you can unscrew the "washer" inside and clean it)

    I am guessing that you can circumvent this to test it by shorting the wire.
    I guess that would complete the circut.

    People, this fellow needs help, does anyone have suggestions?

  8. #288
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    146
    It could be a number of things but possibly it is a problem with one of the connections to the laser power box. There are also a lot of places on the machine where these connections can fail (the switch that stops the laser firing when the lid is open for example)

    So you could test the laser power by bypassing these switches and making the necessary connections to trigger the laser independently. You really need to know what you are doing though and which connections to make.

    Otherwise switch off and disconnect the power to the machine and go over the whole machine testing all the wires, switches and connectors to make sure nothing has loosened.

    My laser had a similar problem and it turned out to be a stuck lid switch
    rabbit / ls3040

  9. #289
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    469
    I had a similar problem once. I tightened all of the connections on the power supply wires and that was the problem, just a loose connection. Has worked fine ever since. Hope your fix is that simple.

  10. #290
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    19
    Hi every one, im new here, but have done a lot of reading but haven't found the answer to a problem I'm having. I bought a rabbit 3040 with a printer port and have been able to get it working, but ive got a couple of problems.
    first the newly draw software looks like it runs several different machines, the only way i can get mine to work is to run it on the rabbit 40 settings. if I change it to rabbit 3040, I get a "link error 3" pop up screen. the "link to" drop down menu is blank and I think should have "com ports" etc in it
    Running the machine on the rabbit 40 has it own issues as the y axis is back to front and everything comes out in a mirror image. Its also difficult and annoying to set the xy origin as the buttons are all back to front. I was thinking the controller inside the machine has 8 jumper links, maybe they are in the wrong position, S1, S2, S5, S6, S7, S8 have no links and S3, S4 have jumpers fitted. is this correct for the 3040?
    One other thing what do you clean the mirrors with and how often?
    thanks in advance
    warrick

  11. #291
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    8
    I am sure that there are people that can help you more than I can
    but it sounds like some of the cables are reversed.

    I would suggest that you send Rabbit pictures of the problem and pictures of the wiring and ask them

  12. #292
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    422
    Hello, I am looking for a source for the momentary and toggle switches for my rabbit laser. I have a 1290 and will be doing some "upgrades" but can't source the switches.
    Thanks!
    Necessity is the mother of all invention (unknown)
    My club home page www.lhmac.org

  13. #293
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1258
    @liquidhandwash

    Warrick,

    The 3040 setting is usually for a USB connected machine, it sounds like you have an older model so the basic 40 is closer to the correct driver.

    It really doesn't matter since you can change the parameters and get it to work just fine with the 40 driver. No you don't need to mess with any on-board jumpers, just the configuration of Newlydraw.

    I'm working from my old and tired memory here... but here goes;

    Click on the properties button in the engrave output screen, same place that you found the 'Link to:' box. Then change to the device tab, you can then reverse the axis to match your machine by selecting the correct sketch (origin and XY axis). Change TopLeftX/Y to set the 0,0 and the maximum cutting area. If you need to adjust the sizes that's done with the H./V. DPI settings.

    Hope this helps.
    Zax.

  14. #294
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    422
    I found what I belive is the Mfg. of the switches. Welcome to Surya Marketing . The part number on the switch is JHK16-311R (R is for red lense).
    Necessity is the mother of all invention (unknown)
    My club home page www.lhmac.org

  15. #295
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    19
    Thanks Zax that was exactly what I needed, the machine now works as it should. Any tips for cleaning the mirrors, the video that came with the machine showed a guy cleaning them with cotton buds and a mystery liquid, all set to some creepy Asian music, I tried distilled water, but one of the mirrors had a greasy film on it, maybe finger marks and I had to use soap as well, which im not sure is the right thing to do.
    thanks again.
    warrick

  16. #296
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    1258
    Oh no... not soap! So now I know where the user name came from

    Get some isopropanol (also called IPA or isopropyl alcohol) from Wal-Mart, Walgreens, CVS etc. You want the highest purity possible (I use 99.99% but anything over 80% is probably ok - just avoid the green stuff).

    A Q-tip and a small amount of IPA is all you need, very gently wipe them (no need to scrub) and allow to dry. The cotton swab doesn't need to be dripping but enough so it isn't scratching at the mirror either. These are front or first surface mirrors so the coating is on the front and can be damaged. The same goes for the lens.

    The soap won't do any harm but the residue it leaves could possibly result in 'hot spots' and crack the mirror or lens, but it's unlikely.

    Zax.

    Quote Originally Posted by liquidhandwash View Post
    Thanks Zax that was exactly what I needed, the machine now works as it should. Any tips for cleaning the mirrors, the video that came with the machine showed a guy cleaning them with cotton buds and a mystery liquid, all set to some creepy Asian music, I tried distilled water, but one of the mirrors had a greasy film on it, maybe finger marks and I had to use soap as well, which im not sure is the right thing to do.
    thanks again.
    warrick

  17. #297
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    19
    Thanks again zax,

  18. #298
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    19

    what not to put in a laser?

    I would like to know what I shouldn't put in in my rabbit 3040 laser, I just read PVC will produce corrosive gasses, is there any thing else I shouldn't put in it?

  19. #299
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    776
    Teflon also is dangerous for cutting

  20. #300
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    19
    Thanks litografa I put some polycarbonate in the machine and it just burnt and caught on fire I'm not sure if I had it set up right or if its just not suitable to cut. also will aluminum or shiny stuff damage the machine. I engraved an aluminum plate by painting it black and turning the power down, it worked well and it burnt the paint off in all the right places, but do i risk damaging anything by doing this.

Page 15 of 16 513141516

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