[stevehuckss396]

it looks like your engine will be running soon!

what compression ratio you are running?

piston crowns might require clearance cuts

It looks that way but there is still alot to do.

5.5:1 if built to print

There are no crowns, pistons are flat top. There will be no relief cuts. Plenty of room for valves to open. Lift is only .070 inches. If someone were to raise the compression by making a domed piston then relief cuts might be needed.

[dynosor]

5.5:1

Thanks Steve

A compression ratio of 5.5:1 seems low. Is this for the engine with the blower or simply to reduce stress on the engine?

What fuel will you be using?

[stevehuckss396]

A compression ratio of 5.5:1 seems low. Is this for the engine with the blower or simply to reduce stress on the engine?

What fuel will you be using?

That's about right for a table top runner if you want a good idle. My 1928 ford had a CR of 4.25:1 so it is plenty to get it running. Why go higher if you don't need to. The blown motor will be the same. If it prooves to low, I'll make a new set.

[harley573]

Has anyone ever seen a miniature dynomometer for engines like these? It'd be really neat to be able to hook something like this up to a dyno and see what kind of crank horsepower she's really putting out. It'd be nice for tuning too.

[dynosor]

Has anyone ever seen a miniature dynomometer for engines like these? It'd be really neat to be able to hook something like this up to a dyno and see what kind of crank horsepower she's really putting out. It'd be nice for tuning too.

The simplest "dyno" is a propeller. For a given diameter and pitch, the maximum speed the engine can drive the prop is a good indicator. You need an approriate prop for a given expected rev range and ensure it is balanced.

It would help to use a common RC plane prop of known standard. Then go and talk to the RC crowd and ask what power it takes to spin a given prop at a given speed.

If you chase peak output, your model engine is more likely to frag itself, so don't be too greedy.

[stevehuckss396]

The electrodes were made .002 larger than the hole in the cap. The wire gets threaded thru from the bottom and the brass is pressed into the cap.

[harley573]

That is so freakin cool!

[bluejets]

Web page for "simple dyno"

SimpleDyno

[stevehuckss396]

Made a few pieces for the fuel tank. I have been in a lazy mood for some reason and wanted to do something to keep the train rolling.


Bottom Fitting




Filler neck




Gas cap. I was going to knurl the part but the tool was set to high. Gave it a go and decided I like the way it looks so it will stay this way.

[harley573]

Speaking of "keeping the train going", any idea on a timeframe for plans release? I am super pumped to get started on a mini-V8 of my own!

[stevehuckss396]

Speaking of "keeping the train going", any idea on a timeframe for plans release?

Soon as i'm sure this thing works. Just last week I made some changes to the distributor. It's much better than what I originaly designed. couple more months

[harley573]

That sounds awesome. I can't wait!

[stevehuckss396]

That sounds awesome. I can't wait!

I know waiting sucks but I don't want to release something that's crap. The drawings keep getting better because there is myself making parts and changing things for the better and there is someone else drawing the engine in solid works from the current drawings and finding some missing dimensions and making sugestions to make the drawings easier to follow.

Soon!!

[bluejets]

Steve,
Nice work.
Working on a v8 here and wondered what material you used for distributor.
I have seen reference to corian in other places but not sure if it available here in Aus. I had been thinking about casting in Bakolite but base materials for this is difficult to source also.
Once again, nice work.
Jeff

[stevehuckss396]

Steve,
Nice work.
Working on a v8 here and wondered what material you used for distributor.
I have seen reference to corian in other places but not sure if it available here in Aus. I had been thinking about casting in Bakolite but base materials for this is difficult to source also.
Once again, nice work.
Jeff

Did you mean the cap? If so I used a surplus piece of 1-1/4 thick "bullet proof glass" Also known in the states as "lotto glass" because it was always installed in the stores that sold lottery tickets. Not sure what it is but it is some kind of polycarbonate plastic. Machines like a dream.

[bluejets]

Thanks Steve.
I think it might be called Lexan here . A bit like Perspex but as tough as nails. I think it is only available here up to about 1/2 inch thick.
If yours stands up to the heat ok, maybe a fibreglass dizzy cap would be ok also.

[stevehuckss396]

Scratch water pump off the list. Instead of tapping a hole to thread a fitting in the pump, I decided to recycle the fitting in the water neck and just solder it in. I had to sand blast the paint off and the rest was easy.



Still going to need some paint but the pump is 100%

[dynosor]

Scratch water pump off the list.

Jolly good. Do you have pictures showing cooling channels in the heads/block? Thanks

[stevehuckss396]

Jolly good. Do you have pictures showing cooling channels in the heads/block? Thanks

No I don't. The water jackets were cut into the block before the liners were pressed in.

[cforcht]

Stumbled across this thread by accident. I read through the entire thing. great work. chalk me up for a set of plans along with everyone else.