[solodex2151]

Phil,

I use the Hitachi M12VC on my machine, and like it quite a bit. It can run as slow as 8000 RPM, whicih is appropriate for Aluminum with 1/4" or smaller bit.

For steel, you really need a slower turning system like this one from little machine shop:

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ory=-269978449

Ahren
www.cncrouterparts.com

Phil,

I second the recommendation on the M12VC. For Steel, you might consider the headstock off a sherline mill.

Regards,

Nate

[drgon47]

I too am going with this kit. I ordered the Hitachi M12VC and a mount from K2 last night. I am hugely excited about this new project. Ive been doing CNC, but with verticle mills and swiss lathes for a few years now.

[leggazoid]

I am planning on releasing more plans with kits to back them. Ahren is working on a cheap rack and pinion drive system and I am working on longer rails with the goal of creating 48x48, 48x72, and 48x96 system. I have planned a smaller Taig/Sherline type CNC that can do Aluminum and Steel, a 2'x3' dual drive setup, and a fixed gantry 12x24. One thing at a time though.

Regards,

Nate Lowrie

I am looking forward to the smaller Taig/Sherline type CNC that can do Aluminum and Steel. When will you release this? I think I remember you saying sometime near Christmas. Is this time frame still possible?

Thanks,
Leggazoid

[solodex2151]

I am looking forward to the smaller Taig/Sherline type CNC that can do Aluminum and Steel. When will you release this? I think I remember you saying sometime near Christmas. Is this time frame still possible?

Thanks,
Leggazoid

Leggazoid,

I got much more of a response on this machine than I expected, so I probably won't get to that machine until late Q1 or early Q2 next year.

Regards,

Nate

[ahren]

I know Ilya built a machine and sells plans for a small mill type machine for a very reasonable price -- his build log is on my site, but I think his website is:

www.8020cnc.com

I didn't purchase the plans, so I can't speak to their quality, but the machine looks pretty good from what I can see in the pictures.

Best regards,

Ahren
www.cncrouterparts.com

[drgon47]

Allright guys, here you go. Havn't seen anyone do a video build yet, so I am. Hope this will give someone else a leg up when building. Cheers!

Video 1:

from Eric Fisher on Vimeo.

Video 2:

from Eric Fisher on Vimeo.

[fretsman]

Hi, drgon47,

Quick question about the assembly if you don't mind? Shouldn't there be a thrust bearing and a bearing race on each side of the Bearing block? Kind of like in the pic below? (Part numbers 3 and 4).




Thanks for sharing,
Dave

[drgon47]

AHA. Thank you for pointing that out. I didnt notice that in the drawing at first. Good thing I havnt finished everything

[solodex2151]

Dave,

There should be and they are provided with the kit. It shouldn't be too hard to slip everything back off.

Regards,

Nate

[fretsman]

Ok, thanks fellas, just wanted to be sure-

Dave

[drgon47]

Two and a half days of work later, I present THIS! IT LIVES. Sorta. Only got one motor in and secured. Other two motors will be done tomorrow and starting on the electronics tomorrow as well. Hopefully be cutting some simple text on wood by the weekend.

Anyone see anything wrong ?




Eric.

[solodex2151]

Nice build. I would say you forgot to remove the labels Looks like a good build. Now to get the table top on and surface that.

Did you put a needle thrust bearing sandwiched between 2 thrust washers on each side of the bearing block for each axis? I saw the green boxes and thought I would ask. You need to use all 12 thrust washers and all 6 needle thrust bearings.

Have you got your tooling yet? I suggest starting out with a 1/8", 1/4", and 1/2" 2 flute spiral endmill (I mostly do upcut but I keep a 1/4" downcut on hand), 60 degree and 90 degree V-Grooving bits, and a 1/4" ballnose bit if you are doing wood. That collection should allow you to handle 95% of all tasks you would want to do. MLCS woodworking is a good place for bits. That is where I get my woodworking stuff. Get the carbide cutters and skip the HSS.

I would also say that down the road you might want to consider getting a planing bit like the Amana RC-2252 for spoilbord surfacing. With a 1/2" endmill it takes me around an hour to surface a spoilbard. The planing bit would reduce that to under 20 minutes. It's a bit pricey, but well worth it and with the insert system replacing the blades are cheap.

Regards,

Nate

[drgon47]

The labels are a problem that take all of 5 minutes and a razor blade. I havnt got any tooling, but I used to work at a machine shop, so I can get some tooling there at a bit of a discount. Also, yes, I did install the thrust washers and bearings after Dave pointed it out to me.

Eric.

[fretsman]

Anyone see anything wrong ?

Yes, your little friend is not working hard enough. Or possibly he's holding down the bench for you?





Build looks good, love the 8020 stuff, what are your travels?
Dave

[drgon47]

Forgive my noobishness, but wiring is not my expertise. Can anyone take this image and make me a quick and dirty paint drawing of what goes where ? If I can get this wired up today, it should move under its own power this evening.



Eric

[jalessi]

This should help.

Jeff...

[solodex2151]

This should help.

Jeff...

Also, note if you don't have an E-Stop, you can just wire directly to ground.

As for the other 3 connections on your Power Supply, The ground symbol (circle with the straight lines in it) goes to your common pin on your AC plug. N is Neutral on the AC plug, and L is Hot/Live on the AC plug.

I recommend you put a switch on the AC side of the power supply. NEVER put a switch on the DC (V+/V-) side as there is a good chance you will damage the G540. I also recommend that you hook up your AC plug to the Power Supply unit first and check to see that things are working. Pick up a multi-meter (HF has them for a few bucks) and use the trim pot (white circle with a Phillips head pattern on the left) to adjust the output voltage to no more than 48V.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Nate

[CNC Darren]

I have been looking over the drawings and have decided that this will be my winter project. It has been a while since I have even visited the forum but I have been wanting to get a new machine built since retireing my last one.

One question, in the drawings it says the X-axis 8020 rails are to be 48.4375 would 48" work? I notice that at the back of the router the rails stick out past the table a bit and the steel rails also dont go all the way to the end.

Thanks
Darren

[solodex2151]

I have been looking over the drawings and have decided that this will be my winter project. It has been a while since I have even visited the forum but I have been wanting to get a new machine built since retireing my last one.

One question, in the drawings it says the X-axis 8020 rails are to be 48.4375 would 48" work? I notice that at the back of the router the rails stick out past the table a bit and the steel rails also dont go all the way to the end.

Thanks
Darren

Darren,

48" should work for you. When you are making your table-top, mount the edge a 1/2" off the end so the router can reach the end of the table top. I made the dimension 48.4375" because the standard bars come in 97" and it was convienent to cut a bar in half.

Regards,

Nate

[bret4]

That last question was a good one about the length of the rails. I too am building one of your routers from the plans and was wondering the same thing. Found some 48" 8020 on ebay and will be using it instead of the 48.437" ones in the plans. Thanks for the timely question and answer guys!