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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    40

    re-loading ballscrews

    I've read some posts about people reloading ballscrews with different size ball to tighten up the screw... my question is how to you get all the ballls back in? like on something like the standard thompson rolled screw .....just looking fo some basic ideas on how you go about doing this
    Thanks
    Mark

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    Mark,
    What I do, is remove the ball return tubes. (Oh, work over a big cookie pan or something just in the rare case that you should drop one of the balls while doing this )

    Then, drop the balls into the ball nut (with the screw lined up) one at a time, and push them into the ball track with a plastic straw. What works good is that red extension straw from a can of WD40. All you want to do, is push the balls down so they contact without leaving a big gap, which may happen if you try to "roll them all in". Once you have a full wrap of the screw completed, it will become kind of self supporting, and then you can slowly roll the screw a bit as you drop in each ball. Still, you might want to "tamp them" with the plastic straw.

    Then, grease a few of the balls, and put them into the ball return tube until it is nearly full. Then, push the ball return tube into position and clamp it.

    I'd recommend that you use large ball-small ball-large ball as you assemble the ball nut. The small ball serves as a spacer to help keep the large balls from jamming against one another, should you happen to actually achieve a measure of preload.
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    40
    perfect...... worked like a charm ...the WD-40 straw was the ticket... thanks a bunch
    Mark

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    1469
    I have a couple of questions about this practice.
    1. If it really better, why doesn't the manufacture make tighter balls like this.

    2. Does it shorten the life of the balls.

    Hager

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    2139
    I just ordered 3 ball nuts specially packed with over sized balls from Roton. Takes the backlash from .005 to .001 or so.

    Eric
    I wish it wouldn't crash.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    1469
    So over sized balls are an option with the suppliers.

    Why don't they use over size balls all the time. Isn't less backlash always more desirable?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    302
    It's the old trade off with friction. Oversized balls lessen backlash but increase friction. More heat, more wear and more torque on the motor. I think the key is to get consistent backlash so you can compensate for it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    1469
    I'm new to ball screws so pardon.

    Couldn't you dial out the .005" backlash with the software?

    Or is it sometimes .005" and then .003" and so on?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    Mr. Chips
    A large amount of backlash is bad all around. Although the software can make an adjustment, the mechanical looseness still does actually exist. This would have a serious effect on a climb milling cutter, should the chip thickness suddenly change from .005 to .010 thickness, for example.

    Then, if you use encoder feedback directly on the screw (this was discussed in another thread lately), then the feedback loop has an almost impossible task trying to move the motor and maintain position. If instead, you use encoder feedback on the motor, then you've got poor quality positioning again on the screw. There's only one way to win, it seems, and that's to have everything perfect

    Even though these inexpensive ballscrews can be loaded with larger balls, we are still bending the rules a bit: the contact angle of the balls within the screw races is quite arbitrary, and is most likely incorrect. This means we will not likely experience proper ballscrew wear and life. But, this is a tradeoff anyways, as most hobbyists will not be working their machines to the extreme anyways.
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    1469
    Thanks for the information.
    Guess when it comes time to check the backlash then I'll cross the bridge.

    It takes a long time to pick up this information in bits and pieces. Glad we have people in this group who have been there and are eager to share.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    61
    sounds good does this mean a linear encoder
    would be the way to go
    on my way to go try the straw thing just putting the old balls back
    but there must be a couple hundred of them
    and rolling them in dosent seem to be working for me
    by the way does anyone know the best way to clean the bearings on the end I will be making my own bearing holders with seals
    can I take the seals out of the sides and just clean them
    they are just a little gritty from sitting for years
    when I looked them up the same ones cost 420.00 apiece for the 2
    on the end
    so I thought I might clean them since I paid 40 bucks for the ball screw and the bearings came with it

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    A linear encoder is an expensive route to go because they often require an expensive converter to convert the scale signal into encoder emulation. Double whammy.

    If you are careful, the rubber shielded style of bearings can be opened. Slip a thin blade in between the inner race of the bearing and the seal, then push the blade in as far as you can towards the outer race. Give the blade a twist, and the seal should pop out. A moderate degree of distortion can be straightened out carefully, and the seal reinstalled after the bearing is washed in solvent.

    You need to use mineral spirits to effectively dissolve the old hardened grease out of the nooks and crannys.
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    61
    the straw trick worked great
    but must be missing some as I ran out and there is still room for
    about 10 or 20 and I havent loaded the tubes yet

    these things are sopposed to have about as maney balls as you can fit in them right?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    Well, they should be close to full I'm supposing, but it may not be a strict necessity. I don't know if you are loading a precision screw or not, but if so, the balls you add need to be exactly the same size as the originals, especially if a preload is going to be applied.
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    61
    I am getting a measurement of .124 consistently
    I think there is some wear but not positive
    There is no name or marking on the ball screw
    I can get a good grade of .125 balls
    would this work if I replaced them all
    I will take some pictures and upload them tomorrow
    this may help
    also of the aluminum milling gantry cnc machine
    I have been building for about one year in my spare time
    it weighs about 2000 lbs.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    813
    I got 600 0.125 balls for $32 CND; so they are not expensive
    CHK with your nearest Motion dealer

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    61
    I am looking for a place this one guy has a grade chart
    http://americandad.biz/Grade.JPG
    I think I may need one of the better grades
    I am not sure so
    I thought it couldn’t hurt if they where better
    I just uploaded one picture
    of the ball screw
    http://www2.whidbey.com/ror/ball-screw.jpg

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    61
    I found this site
    http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.as...ry&label=52100
    took some looking thought I would post it
    also got a few for a linear slide I droped wile I was there
    might be helpfull for some one
    looking for loose ball bearings and I put some images in the
    photo gallery any coments would be helpfull
    it is still in progress but I am getting to the point where I am going to need some info from people
    what I mean is help but I am a man and cant quite say that

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