Originally Posted by ynneb
That's not the laser that's the cutting head that has the focusing lens, everything else is where it was before.
Originally Posted by ynneb
That's not the laser that's the cutting head that has the focusing lens, everything else is where it was before.
I'd like to know more details about the laser... what is required to operate one.. (sorry, total novice on lasers) , I'm aware that a baffle is required to prevent burning the table, a vac supply is good to hold components and as mentioned above to collect fumes. Is it a Co2 laser and if so requires Co2 gas as well... what type of power supply is required and.. aside from E-bay.. where can you get a decent one for cutting up to 1/4 ply ?
Thanks, Craig.
No baffle, just tile that is fire prof.Originally Posted by Adler
Vac is for smoke extraction not for holding the parts down.
The laser tube is a seal laser no flowing gas.
The power supply must match the laser tubes requirements and is Dependant on the amount of watts the laser is.
For 1/4" aircraft ply you need a 50 to 200 watt laser. The more power the faster you can cut and the thicker material you can cut.
Hi Paul..
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm currently reviewing other parts of the forum trying to get more info on lasers.
What are the typical dimensions of a 200 W tube. Also do these tubes need a circulating water cooling source? aside from the tube itself and the power supply what else is involved and what components make up the laser system aside from CNC table etc? What is the duty cycle (life time) of one of these tubes.
I'm trying to close the gap on the learning curve so throw as much at me as you care to :-)
Thanks, Craig.
Okay, I've been watching the post for some time now and I'm wondering ir you going to be selling plans? I bought a CNC Taig mill a few months ago to help with the experimental airplane i'm building and that got me interested in building a laser cutter that could cut aluminum sheet. Are you doing plans?
thanks - great site by the way
-John
Wow Paul, I don't know how I haven't seen this thread yet! That is a thing of beauty!
Got any videos of it in action?
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Check Out My Build-Log: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6452
Cutting Aluminum with a laser requires a LOT of power.Originally Posted by t2436jf
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
I will get some video up soon.
I just seen the latest pictures. That thing is alsome!
How much power? The thickest sheet I would need to cut would be 1/16"... perhaps up to 3/32 if I could handle the cost of the laser..Originally Posted by ger21
-John
I'd guess at least 100W, but probably double that. I don't know for sure. It's harder to cut aluminum than steel with a laser.Originally Posted by t2436jf
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Paul, What is the right end for high voltage? The instructions does not say anything about it.Originally Posted by CNCadmin
Also, what type of water pump do you use?
Thank you,
George.
I will double check but BE VERY CAREFUL, hooking it up back-wards will electrify the water. Were did you get your tube, mine might be different than yours.
We got 50w laser from the same chinese guy Steve Luo. You gave us a link for this company.
Thanks,
George.
Also there is a wire connecting contact close to output hole of the laser and one of metal pipes where you connect your water pump. This wire not soldered just coiled around contact and the pipe.
Do we need it? Should it be soldered? Or we can just remove it?
Thanks,
George.
Remove that I beleve it's for static, I took mine off.
Hey paul,
How is your laser holding up? Do you use it for you business and if so how fast does it cut foam? and do you have to ventilate alot do to fumage?
wouldn't mind building one for my own hobby purposes but have to finish one of the other projects first!
thanks
Michael T.
"If you don't stand for something, chances are, you'll fall for anything!"
It's holding up very well, I'm cutting foam at 300 to 500 IMP. Yes I have a dust collector for the fumes. It's used mainly for the new biz.
Hi Paul,
I have a couple of questions about your laser engraver mechanics so I don't reinvent the wheel on mine.
Did you abandon the Simplicity bearings on the longer axis for any particular reason (it looks like from the photos that you are still using them on the shorter axis...open style with maybe a support or two along the rail?)
For the long axis, it looks like you went with a piece of rectangular steel and three bearings (one on top and bottom of the steel "beam" and one pressing into the side). Did you find this to work better than the Simplicity bearings?
For the drive belts...did you just use 3/8" wide timing belt stock, and for the long axis, do you drive the gantry from both sides using a rod or something to link the two belts together? (I can only see one side in the photo).
It looks like you use XL belt and pulleys for the long axis. How did you decide what size pulley to use (looks like about a 12-16 tooth pulley) so the belts do not interfere with each other (ie, have enough space between the belts).
Hmm, ok, that was quite a few questions, but thanks if you can provide any insight.
My new laser will have all Igus rails and bearing, it's a more true system, in terms of adjustment and play. The steel beam work very well, but it relies on more on adjustment which over time needs to be readjusted, and the roll is not quite as smooth as I would have liked. The size of the pulleys were based on the gearing I needed and a size that would not interfere with the mechanics. My new machine is the same as far as pullys go, BUT i'm going with the smother 80 pitch instead of the .2 pitch. This machine I running now will go up on ebay as the new one is much bigger and it's servo instead of stepper.Originally Posted by KTP