[CurtisBarclay]

Hi Everyone,

This is the first time on this Forum and new to cnc. I ordered the CNC 3 Axis Package with 425 oz-in motor and KL-4030 Bipolar
Driver with 36V /8.8A Power Supply, and I'm in the process of getting it all wired up but now I have a problem.

As you see in the left side of the picture I have a 5V. power supply that shuts down every time I hook up the 5volts to the DB25. I disconnect it and it comes back on (it's an overload feature). I've checked all the wiring per there web site and all seems to wired right. I also installed the jumper wire JP1 to JP2 for the 5 volts. Has anyone else had this problem?

Also are the motors supposed to (lock-up) with the power on? I'm using Mach 3 and have followed the instructions to the "T".

Thanks

[Crevice Reamer]

Hi Curtis. Welcome to the Zone!

Hi Everyone,

This is the first time on this Forum and new to cnc. I ordered the CNC 3 Axis Package with 425 oz-in motor and KL-4030 Bipolar
Driver with 36V /8.8A Power Supply, and I'm in the process of getting it all wired up but now I have a problem.

As you see in the left side of the picture I have a 5V. power supply that shuts down every time I hook up the 5volts to the DB25. I disconnect it and it comes back on (it's an overload feature). I've checked all the wiring per there web site and all seems to wired right. I also installed the jumper wire JP1 to JP2 for the 5 volts.

This jumper should be installed between #1 and # 2. (Common = Ground) Make sure that is the way you have wired it.

Also are the motors supposed to (lock-up) with the power on? I'm using Mach 3 and have followed the instructions to the "T".

Yes, the motors should all lock up with power on.

A couple questions:

Have you tried using the 5V "wall wart" that came with the kit?

Do you have the En terminal powered with 5V or wired to E stop switch?

It looks to me like you have the 36V power wires "daisy chained" from one driver to another. This is a NO NO and each driver should have 2 power wires running directly from Power Supply.

Here's some info that might be helpful:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76865.#3

CR.

[automationtechinc]

here is the diagram for you
http://www.kelinginc.net/KelingProductsDocuments.html

[CurtisBarclay]

Thanks for your help,

I didn't know about "daisy chaining" I will correct it. No I haven't tried the wall wart, the unit I'm using puts out 4.9 volts.

As far as the E stop I'm using the Vista CNC pendent. Here's the link; http://www.vistacnc.com/ so the E stop isn't wired to the board

As far as the EN terminal I'm sure what you mean. The documentation is surely pitiful to say the least and doesn't even come close to being descriptive!!!!!

I can only guess at the dip switches on the driver?!?!?! 8 switches with only 6 settings. What do you do with #4 and #8 switch...nothing??

Thanks for your help,

Curtis

[CurtisBarclay]

This is what I'm talking about! Just looked at the link and here is what I see.

KL 4030 #1 (from Kelinginc website)

ENA+
ENA-
STEP-
STEP+
DIR-
DIR+

KL 4030 #2 (from Kelinginc website)

REST-
REST+
(DIR)CW-
CW+
(STEP)CP-
CP+

KL 4030 #3 (the one I have)

ENA-
ENA+ (+5V)
DIR-
DIR+ (+5V)
PUL-
PUL+ (+5V)

OK, so how do you wire this driver up again? @#?#?$ Now I'm totally confused??

[Crevice Reamer]

Please confirm that you have the 5V jumper set between #1 and #2 on the C-10.

Thanks for your help,

I didn't know about "daisy chaining" I will correct it. No I haven't tried the wall wart, the unit I'm using puts out 4.9 volts.

As far as the E stop I'm using the Vista CNC pendent. Here's the link; http://www.vistacnc.com/ so the E stop isn't wired to the board

As far as the EN terminal I'm sure what you mean. The documentation is surely pitiful to say the least and doesn't even come close to being descriptive!!!!!

EN stands for ENABLE. The EN terminal next to 5V on the C10 MUST be powered for anything to work. You could either run a separate 5V wire, or just jumper across from the adjacent 5V connection.

CR.

[CurtisBarclay]

Please confirm that you have the 5V jumper set between #1 and #2 on the C-10.



EN stands for ENABLE. The EN terminal next to 5V on the C10 MUST be powered for anything to work. You could either run a separate 5V wire, or just jumper across from the adjacent 5V connection.

CR.

CR, I have the DB25 bob, not the C10. I should have gotten the C10 with the package but I didn't. The documents doesn't show any wiring for the EN.

[Crevice Reamer]

Here's a manual for a drive simular to the 4030. Maybe this will help you some:

http://www.leadshine.com/upload/1224656549834.pdf

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

DB-25 wiring diagram:

http://kelinginc.net/KL-DB25.pdf

If you are NOT using an Estop switch, then pin #10 MUST be jumpered to GND.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Looking at your picture, and at the db25 wiring guide--You have the 5V connected to the wrong place. It should connect on the LEFT instead of to the right.

CR.

[CurtisBarclay]

Looking at your picture, and at the db25 wiring guide--You have the 5V connected to the wrong place. It should connect on the LEFT instead of to the right.

CR.

CR, you would be correct but mine is in the correct place;
blk is ground,
red is 5V+

as shown on the PCB

Thanks for your help

C

[Crevice Reamer]

CR, you would be correct but mine is in the correct place;
blk is ground,
red is 5V+

as shown on the PCB

Thanks for your help

C

Oh! I see! All of the db25 diagrams are reversed or mirror imaged.

CR.

[CurtisBarclay]

DB-25 wiring diagram:

http://kelinginc.net/KL-DB25.pdf

If you are NOT using an Estop switch, then pin #10 MUST be jumpered to GND.

CR.

I checked all the wiring again and even jumpered #10 to ground but still no luck

[Crevice Reamer]

Okay. Let's trouble shoot.

1. Disconnect all 5V power connections to 5V PSU. Does it work now? Is this PSU the type that needs a load or it shuts off? If so, find out how much load it needs and supply it. If this fails, try connecting the wall wart to just the BOB.

2. If step one ok then connect 5V JUST to BOB.

3. If step 2 ok then add one drive and test. repeat with next drive.

CR.

[CurtisBarclay]

Okay. Let's trouble shoot.

1. Disconnect all 5V power connections to 5V PSU. Does it work now? Is this PSU the type that needs a load or it shuts off? If so, try connecting the wall wart to just the BOB.

2. If step one ok then connect 5V JUST to BOB.

3. If step 2 ok then add one drive and test. repeat with next drive.

CR.

CR, that's what I did just to troubleshoot, I disconnected everything from the power supply thinking that something else was causing the problem. All drives, printer port connection, everything else going to the PSU except the BOB, same thing. Connect just the drives everything is good. I may have a bad board. I was supposed to get the C10 with my kit but got the DB25 instead. Keling said he would exchange it no problem. I don't know what else I can do.

A Saint in disguise to the Forum goes by the name of "Crevice Reamer"

Thanks for all your help,

Curtis

[Crevice Reamer]

How about with NOTHING connected to 5V PSU? Disconnect the BOB and see if the PSU will stay on.

CR.

[CurtisBarclay]

How about with NOTHING connected to 5V PSU? Disconnect the BOB and see if the PSU will stay on.

CR.

Yes with nothing connected it still reads 4.9 volts

[Crevice Reamer]

Okay! Now disconnect everything from the db25 and then connect the 5V to it. If PSU stays on, DB25 is okay and you can start connecting to it and testing one by one. If PSU goes off, then it's the DB25. Look for faulty connections, solder bridges across traces, burned components.

CR.