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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1673
    Hi,

    Do you think the Pro builders have abandoned us already?

    That steel looks like it will make a nice base for a lathe, do you not think one will be enough? I am no expert but as soon as you mention welding you’re looking at stress relieving as the steel will start moving around. Maybe not enough to course you problems but we need more expert advice here.

    What I would do is build the lathe on one and then embed that piece of steel into an EG (Epoxy granite) base which would incorporate the chip tray. The EG would make a world of difference to the lathe as it would absorb the cutting resonance, reduce chatter, improve your finishing cuts and improve tool life.

    You may have noticed I like EG and have been following the thread on the Zone for quite some time. It’s fabulous stuff imho and not all that complicated for machine building if incorporating steel structure. Basically epoxy resin, play sand and pea gravel will make you a solid base to build on. I won’t go on about it unless you’re interested but well worth some investigation imo.

    As for your surfacing on the mill, looks good to me but you need a cnc mill so you can at least use the jog buttons instead of all that handle turning. (wedge)

    John

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    593
    We're abandoned? Oh no.... :drowning:

    The problem with just one of the pieces of steel is that it's not tall enough on it's own to fit the Z axis ball screw to. One piece is 80mm x 40mm. 80mm x 80mm gives me plenty on the front or back side to fit the ball screw.
    I did wonder about welding being a problem and I have no idea how one would stress relieve something. Maybe a psychiatrist could help. Some expert advice would be good regarding welding these. I kind'a thought that being fairly large bits I might get away with it?

    I need advice, and I'm ready to use it.

    I speed read the EG thread you mentioned. It's definitely appealing, but...... is it possible to get fixings into it if you need to. I know what happens, you build something then add bits on and change stuff after it's finished. I have a feeling that if you're using EG in a build, you need to get it right first go. I'm pretty sure my lathe isn't going to be first rate by a long shot. I'll make my mistakes and want to build another one I'm sure.

    Handle turning is not for me. All turny handles should be replaced by motors in my opinion.

    I still have my friends bits to check out, (Ooooh errr!!), hopefully later this week, so I'll see what that brings.

    Thanks John, the EG certainly seems worth more thought, even if I keep it for machine number 2.

    Regards Terry.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    169

    Maybe a psychiatrist could help

    hi Mr Bean what i m seeing here is hesitation
    u gut excellent collection of part and manual mill that forgot ok

    1 convert the manual mill to cnc it will help u a lot
    2 get some machinery course
    3 ask in your neighborhood for milling /Laser cutting shop
    for a vmc
    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30262
    http://www.5bears.com/cnc.htm
    http://www.gimbal.com.au/content.aspx?name=cnc-mill

    one last question u did not determine tipe of motor /spindle/ chuck/servo/Stepper

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    593
    Quote Originally Posted by hesham morsy View Post
    one last question u did not determine tipe of motor /spindle/ chuck/servo/Stepper
    Hmmm. I've not really determined anything yet.
    I'm hoping to use a 3 phase AC motor with inverter drive for the main motor and probably steppers for axis locomotion. The spindle and chuck are things I want to make with the lathe.
    The lathe book by David Gingery gives some good information on how the lathe can build it's self once you have the Z and X axis working, so my plan is to build a temporary headstock and spindle using the lathe itself. If that goes well, I can hopefully make new permanent ones.

    I had a call from my friend while I was typing this and he's got me some more aluminium. I'm going over there to pick it up on Friday. He said a lot of it is ½" plate, but there's apparently at least enough to build 3 or 4 machines from.
    None of the really thick stuff, but I'm more than happy to get some ½" stock to use. I could even fill ½" frames with epoxy granite for extra damping.

    There was one large bit but he couldn't get it in his truck, it was 48" x 36" x 4", pretty beefy.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1062
    You do realise the 1/2" plate rhymes with "laminate" ....Just a thought
    Keith

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    558
    Hi Terry,

    I like the idea of using the lathe itself to bore the headstock, that would surely help ensure the spindle is true to the ways - I'm considering using the headstock from my baby lathe on the carriage for that purpose.

    Quote Originally Posted by MrBean View Post
    There was one large bit but he couldn't get it in his truck, it was 48" x 36" x 4", pretty beefy.
    GO AND GET IT That would weigh about 310 Kg, and would cost $5K + tax here. I used 4" plate for the columns on my little mills, it works really well. It'd also make a mighty nice base too. Pick it up - rent a truck, or hire a carrier, and take it to a shop with a waterjet and have them cut it into a couple of more manageable pieces...

    Oh yeah - I wouldn't weld those two bars together. It might be just fine, but my guess is there's a better than even chance it will introduce stresses that will warp the bed, and if you then machine it flat, it'll twist again. You can probably stress relieve it, but why not just bolt them together?

    Best regards,

    Jason

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    593
    Thanks for the info. I have read a few threads regarding welding, stress relieving and normalizing etc.. I think the bolt together suggestion sounds like the best bet for those steel bars. I'll wait and see what materials Friday brings, but if I end up using the steel bars, I'll probably skim all sides then bolt them together and skim them again. They won't fit on the small mill I have so I'll try them on my cnc router, besides my arms would fall off turning the handles on the small mill, I'd be there for days.

    Regards Terry

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    0
    The difference is thickness. Plate is thicker than sheet. The dividing line is usually quarter inch thick (1/4"), and can apply to metals or materials other than just aluminium.

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