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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > New Build, 3-axis baltic birch. Hardware finished~ what CAM/CAD?
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    14

    New Build, 3-axis baltic birch. Hardware finished~ what CAM/CAD?

    I built this router table over the last 6 months or so. Using real baltic birch (NON-CHINISE) and the skate bearing linear slides. I used the standard newbie 1/2-10 amce leadscrews and probotix steppers. I built the McWire design Circuit with resistors instead of lightbulbs.

    Now the problem. I have my router running fine with the free k-cam. But will need to purchase controll software (turns out 250-500 lines of g-code is a grain of sand in a dessert!) and I have scoured CNCZone on this subject, but most of the posts are from 2006 and do not consider the software upgrades that have happened since.

    My Intended Use: Woodworker by trade. I am invisioning carving panels for cabinets, maybe some jointery, some signs. Milling parts for jigs and such. (of course using it to build my next cnc machine!!)

    I own and am fluent in:
    AutoCAD R14
    Sketchup
    Photoshop

    so here is what seems to make sense to me:

    1. Kellycam works great, but doesn't seem that most CAM programs post to it. I thought about Freemill and KCAM but that wont do text very easy.
    2. The hobbiest standard seems to be Mach3. I am good with that, however, CAM programs are new to me. I have downloaded and played with MeshCAM, SheetCAM, CamBam , and LazyCAM plus.

    Seems to me meshCAM+Mach3 bundle ($300) is more geared to what I'm trying to do.

    Anybody out there been there, done that?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC1.jpg   CNC2.jpg   CNC3.jpg  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    267
    For CAD, I really like Solidworks, but unless you can get a educational version ($200), its going to cost a lot of money.

    I do not yet have a preference on a CAM product. I have been playing with CamBam.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    38
    How about VCarve Pro if you want to do signs
    or Cut2d if you are looking at at the same just without V-carved letters?

    www.vectric.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    V-Carve Pro is definitely where you should be looking. Download the demo and give it a try.

    Nice looking machine. Is the red just paint?
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    14
    Thank you GER21, I am pretty proud of her. The old carpenter in me wont allow me to paint wood. lol That is cranberry General Finishes wood stain. Finished with a 3 coats waterwhite sealer and 4 coats waterwhite semigloss
    lauquer.

    I will definantly try the vcarve. Do you lean either direction on KCAM vs Mach3?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1
    This is a nice looking setup, and looks similar to a design I'm planning on building.

    Any chance of uploading some better res photo's? I'm interested in how you've setup the bearing sliders and leadscrew mounts... (I'm trying to keep it easy and cheap)

    Best of luck with getting good software to match.

    -Simon-

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    14
    Hi simon, thank you. I will take some better photos tonight or tomorrow. I just took these with my phone! uugghh

    I will get some photos of the things you asked for. I built it as cost effectively as I possibly could. The two big mistakes I made were:

    1. Buying cheap stepper motors just to go back and buy the right ones later.

    2. Spent alot of money on Acme nuts for the leadscrews. What ended up working best was a post from a CNCZoner about using a propane torch to heat your leadscrews and clamping UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) plastic over the hot screw. the plastic melts around the screw and gives you a nut with no backlash at all. I had a sheet of this laying around the shop anyway so it was free to me, but the stuff is REALLY inexpensive.

    Good luck iwth your build (spend alot of time on this site, there are a ton of experts in here, me excluded!)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Definitely Mach3. Here's a custom screen I've created for it.

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70834

    Did you stain and seal before cutting?
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    14
    I cut all the "holes" out with a jig saw leaving a heavy 1/16". I then stained everything and once dry, used patterns and a thumbnail profile router bit with a bearing to clean up all the edges. Assembled and sprayed sealer and finish.

    Came out pretty clean. You have to use real russian plywood, the chinese stuff that Lo's and Home Destruct sell will just splinter. plus real baltic has more plys so the unstained edge looks real nice.

    Thanks for the heads up on V-Carve. that is exactly what I am looking for. All of the forums i've read has great things to say about the company as well. I will have to wait a couple of months to afford it, being a bit out of my budget, but it looks like its worth it. I will start hand writing G-code, that will probably pay dividends down the road anyway.

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