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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1290

    Cutting .250+ Aluminum

    This weekend I purchased a Freud non-ferrous metal blade.
    Putting my fears a side I grabbed the WD-40 and some clamps. After clamping the 1/2 x 3 aluminum bar to the chop saw, I started cutting.
    The finished cut was fantastic; I just went slow and made sure the WD-40 was being used to lube the blade. After the bar I trimmed up some 1530 series 80/20 with the same results, I should have purchased one of these when I first started this project!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    Was this a blade with the laser cut squiggly slots filled with a rubbery compound to dampen vibration? (Excuse the highly technical terms.)

    With the material correctly clamped and the blade fed at a sensible speed you can get a very good finish and very good precision with a chop saw.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1290
    Yes the blade has the squigglies you are mentioning. It is also a bright RED in color. The same blade is good for plastic and I did try a 2" thick piece of plastic with the same results.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1147
    Quote Originally Posted by Drools View Post
    Yes the blade has the squigglies you are mentioning. It is also a bright RED in color. The same blade is good for plastic and I did try a 2" thick piece of plastic with the same results.
    is this it? http://www.toolmarts.com/frd_p410.html

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    628
    I can't say what Drools is using for a blade, but the P410 is a general purpose combination blade with Hi-ATB (alternating top bevel). This will certainly cut aluminum, but the high bevel is not ideal for that purpose.

    My Freud non-ferrous blade is a D1080N, which is a TCG (triple chip grind) with a negative rake angle. This is more typical of (soft) metal cutting blades. I've left this in my chopsaw, because it also works well for crosscutting wood. About $60 online.

    Steve

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1290
    I just looked at the model # of the blade and it is the D1080N. 80.00CAD + taxes for the 10" version at homedepot.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1147
    They have it on amazon too. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/D1080N-Diablo-10-Inch-Non-Ferrous-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ38"]Amazon.com: Freud D1080N Diablo 10-Inch 80 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating: Home Improvement[/ame] Thanks for the info. I have a cut off saw and it did terrible with the big disc I bought for it. It would melt the metal and leave behind a kind of smudged finish.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    267
    I just use a finish wood carbide tip blade (50 teeth) on the table saw. Works fine - up to 1" aluminum. Needs to be milled for a nice finish, but just fine for rough cuts. Go slow. Hot chips require a full face mask.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1290
    Interesting that you mention "hot chips" I did not find that a problem with the D1080N, the negative angle on the cutting teeth help to reduce heat. I used the same plade to cut 2" plastic without a hint of melting.
    I have seen some saying that just reversing a fine cut blade works to but I do not like the idea of reversing a saw blade.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    267
    I have used the reverse the saw blade thing for thin plastic and it works fine. For thicker stuff (1/4" or greater) I just run it through as normal.

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