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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618

    Arrow Cutty Shark I

    Okay Guys. Its time to get busy. Since I first knew that I had to have a CNC router just a mere few weeks ago (Thanks CNC Zone) I have gobbled up as many different designs as I possibly could from here and elsewhere on the web.
    I also took note of the items that I have on hand and developed a design that I want to use for my initial setup. Design has changed several times even after buying some of the materials that won't be needed now. I can see that it might pay to get the design down on paper first.
    I make blade guards for tablesaws. The guards are called Shark Guards. Ergo the play on words with the name of this machine.
    Anyway, the Cutty Shark I will mainly be for cutting polycarbonate and thin aluminum sheet. I have the basic frame parts already, so these dimensions are what I am hoping for. X axis = approximately 36". Y- axis = approx. 20". Y axis = maybe 4" or 5".
    I'll add more details a little later on. Here are a couple of images to get started with. Comments and suggestions are absolutely welcome and the sooner the better.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails x1.jpg   frameparts.jpg  
    Lee

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Looking at your drawing, do you really need the two top interior bearings? I would think the on the top the upper vertical bearing and outer horizontal bearing will work to hold it from moving side to side then on the bottom the lower vertical bearing is the only one needed to keep the gantry from upper movement.

    Joe

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    You are probably right. This is most likely too many bearings. It would actually be 10 bearings per side with this setup.

    I wanted to make each side of the gantry sorta stand alone on its own without falling off if the gantry weren't there. My thinking is that this may actually reduce any chance of racking. Therefore, I think the top three are a must for starters.
    The gantry will be pretty heavy itself. All the parts are some nice steel that I had on hand. The 2" x 2" x 44 7/8" tubing is nearly 3/16" thick and the flat bar is 3/16" x 4" x 44 7/8". The end angle iron is 3" x 3" x 1/4" x 24 5/8".
    I was thinking because of this, there would be very little chance that the router would want to lift the gantry anyway, so I might get away with just some delrin. This could be mounted and adjusted a little easier than the bearings.
    I bought 100 bearings on Ebay. I have about twenty peices of 3/4" x 3/4" x 4' aluminum square tube and some brass rod on hand already. This was another reason for overkill in the drawing.
    I have a mini-mill, mini-lathe and 4"x6" bandsaw to make the build much easier.

    Some other details of this build that I have bought are the Xylotex driver board. Three 270 oz. steppers from Home Shop CNC.
    A 24 volt power supply, assorted bearings, shaft couplings, fan, bushings switches and what not from Surplus center.

    I bought some 5/8" 8 acme rod and 6 square brass nuts from Mcmaster Carr.

    I haven't yet bought the license to run Mach 2, but that should be the last thing major that I'll purchase. I managed to pick up a couple of double bearinged 12" long new THK rails on Ebay for the z axis.
    The basic design is one that I should evenually be able to retrofit THK rails on for the other two axes if I am able to find any deals on them.
    I'll be makin my own contoller box out of aluminum. I'll powder coat it when done. Any suggestions for initil switches lights bells and whistles for the box?
    Thats it for now. More updates soon. More thoughts and suggestions are welcome.
    Lee

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    6855
    Here is my idea for ya-
    Attached Files Attached Files

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    Thanks for a peek at that bearing design. It looks good and simple. I like simple and good. I have had this 4" zinc plated flat bar laying around for a long time. At least I have managed to cut it into shorter pieces now. I wanted to see how straight I could get it mounted, so I put one side together last night. It came out great. Its as straight as my T-square in both directions. I will use it for starters. I should have the frame complete this evening and will add some more photo's then. It feels good to start building it already, rather than just spending money and amassing parts.
    After lifting the frame and track assembly for just one side, I am starting to think that this thing may weigh nearly as much as some of these smaller MDF rigs.

    MDF and I do NOT see eye to eye. If thats all there was to cut in the world, My tablesaw would be on the curb.
    Lee

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    Here's the next installment. I was able to get all my holes drilled for the 5/16" carriage bolts that hold the frame together. They also hold the rails on. Everything came out as square as I can measure. I had it leveled up in the picure and the frame is dead level. The rails tightened up great as well too. I am a happy camper at this point.
    I had originally intended for the machine to sit on this stationary table in the corner of my shop. Now I know that it has to be on casters. All sides of the machine will need to be accessible at times. Plus a steel framed base with casters will actually have less of a footprint.
    I ordered 4 casters from the Surplus Center. They had what looks like a great deal on them.
    Here are a couple of photo's so that ya'll know it did happen.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails xframe.jpg   rail1.jpg  
    Lee

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    I have just a little more progress to report. I worked on my all in one control panel this afternoon. Got a good start on it. I'll get it all together soon. I have a micro motherboard that will go in here. The fan on the bottom of the power supply is nearly as big as the big fan in the photo. Don't think I'll need to move quite that much air. I have two smaller normal size fans that I'll stick in there somewhere.
    I will need to put a filter on the outside somewhere as well. Perhaps on the back. I won't be cutting ANY MDF with this thing. No fine dust. I use a dust collector in my shop too, so that will help. I will be hooking up a dust port for the router as well.
    The box is .063 aluminum and 3/4" square aluminum tubing. All drilled and tapped with 10-24 screws. Could have used rivets, but just wasn't that sure I wouldn't need to take it back apart. Thought about powder coating it, but now that its going together....
    The dimensions are 18" wide x 15" tall and 12" deep. Should be plenty of space in there. Thats it for now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails control1.jpg  
    Lee

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    Todays update is a little more done on the control panel.
    I found out that when I sand blasted the front panel on one side only, that it cups the panel. Like the glass beads actually stretched that side. Wow! Learn something new every day.
    I reckon I'll have to blast the inside of this panel too.

    I found some hammertone paint in a charcoal color that looks nice. I think I'll use this on the whole machine. Control panel and all.

    I never thought I was going to get the computer part to work. This is my fourth mother board. The others were just spares from older computers. I could not get the bios to load. Guess those are bad. I picked up this computer monitor at a repair shop. They normally throw these little things out. I think it will do for this.
    I want to try out Turbo CNC first. Got it loaded and I'll run with that first. I think its capable of doing what I want done.

    What type of controls, switches and leds would ya'll suggest for the control side of the panel. I have the 3 axis Xylotex board. I just have the normal stuff for the computer side. I want to wire the big power supply up using an old socket from another power supply. Then I'll have a detachable cable. Both power cables will then plug into a surge protector with a switch.

    Thanks for looking and suggestions are always welcome.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails control2.jpg   control3.jpg  
    Lee

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    Todays update is short, but a little progress. I have worked a little more refining the control panel. It will sit on a shelf about 8" higher than the bottom bracing on the cart in the pics. I may put the little monitor down there as well. It would be tilted to be seen from a standing position. Keyboard will be covered with a big ziplock bag or maybe some press and seal. That stuffs pretty neat.
    Anyway, here's the pics of the cart after I got the bottom welded up. The legs are some sort of overhead door track that I picked up. The bottom frame is just part of an old bed frame. I got these nice casters from Surplus center for $4.95 each. These are very good casters with a 200 + weight limit each. Nice rubber tires. These are made in Australia.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cnccart1.jpg   cnccart2.jpg  
    Lee

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618

    Good things come to those who wait.

    Well, I didn't wait.
    I have been working on the control panel and had some computer problems, switch failures, new power supply short on the computer, wire routing issues, designing on the fly setbacks.
    All in all, just about what I expected.
    Anyway, I could not resist the urge to test the motors. All was going wll and my son was repositioning the motor and touched one of the untapped center wires on the x axis to the controllers case. This must have knocked a smoke seal loose, because my Xylotex board spilled some out. He felt bad about it, but it wasn't his fault. I should have tapped up those wires anyway.
    The good news is that everything else seemed to be working fine in Turbo CNCjog mode.
    I have possed another question on the Gecko drive forum here. I will send this board back home for possible fixing, but I was wondering if I should buy a second board as backup.
    My motors are rated at 2.8 am bipolar, so this is just a little high for the Xylotex anyway.
    I'm not sure what all I need to go with the Gecko's instead.
    Any input would be appeciated.

    Thanks.
    Lee

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    A Xylotex (and Geckos as well) will die instantly if a motor wire is disconnected with power applied, or from any short of the motor power wires. Jeff @ Xylotex will repair it for a reasonable price. If you're careful, you shouldn't need a spare. If you think you'll need a spare, is 1 spare enough?
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618

    Thanks Gerry.

    I may just wait on an upgrade to the Gecko's. I'm sure I will want to go that route eventually.
    I have contacted Jeff and am awaiting some info.
    I think at the stage that I'm at, a second board would be the way to go.
    If I screw up again, , time won't be a factor. When I upgrade, I'm sure there are many guys that would like to have the drivers at a reduced cost. Assuming I don't blow them again.
    I went through all the research it took for a niovice to get this hooked up and running just to let a stupid mistake set me back. Well, I won't make the same mistake again.

    GUYS, cover your unused wires! See, now I can finally contribute some useful information to the Forum.
    Lee

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    634
    Lee, the Xylotex will work great with your steppers. That's the setup that I'm using and have been very pleased.

    I have two boards, I managed to blow them both up at different times. All my fault. Once I figured out what to do I haven't had a problem in over a year.

    Nice thread and thanks for sharing the design details.
    Trent

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    2849
    I wonder if the Rutex boards will also die instantly....hmmmmmm wonder what their circuitry really looks like....

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Gecko has new drives coming out soon that are nearly invincible... G204.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    Well thats certainly the kind that I will be needing in the future.
    I did place another order for a second Xylo board today. As I said, it was all working (jogging) fine. Everything is setup in the panel for them already anyway.
    I am over that real bad feeling in the gut already. I will try my best to keep Murphy out of my control box in the future. Now, on to the easy stuff. The machine (he said while crossing his fingers).
    Thanks Guys. Ya'll are a tremendous help and a good influence.
    Lee

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    I made a little progress. I worked some on the bearings for the x axis. I cut the sides out of 3/4" aluminum. This is just what I had on hand that was bg enough, hopefully. I also managed to turn the ends on the x lead screw and get it in place.
    I used 3/4" aluminum bar for the top bearing holders and square tube for the guides on the sides. 3" angle held it together.
    I made a bunch of brass bushings to fit the bearings and they run nicely in the channels I milled (cut) out for them. I can see just from testing these on the rails that my initial design had far too many bearings. I figured it probably did. Its generally easier to remove elements of a design than to re-engineer to accept more later. Still easy to do with the holders I used. I doubt that there will be any racking. These outer guides are 10" apart. The weight bearing rollers are 8" apart. That part felt good to get done.
    In the process, my backup Xylotex board came in. I will indeed wait to do the motor turning test now.
    Check out some of the photo's. Its starting to look like something.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bearing1.jpg   bearing2.jpg   bushing1.jpg   bushing2.jpg  

    rod1.jpg  
    Lee

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    Today's update shows a little progress. I got the gantry up and running somewhat. I addedd some adjustment possibilty on both sides of the bearing holders and gantry uprights. I will need just a little to preload the side bearings.
    I have figured out also that I need some x bracing on the legs. Making this an all in one cart type CNC router has its drawbacks, but seem to be few so far. I will have to have screw adjustable feet for when the machine is in use. Have to level it up to use it. I guess this is normal with any of them though.
    Anyway, here are some pics to check out. I am making headway.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails gantry3.jpg   gantry2.jpg   gantry1.jpg  
    Lee

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    114
    Lee,
    You are making great progress! Building a lot faster than I am.. At this rate you'll be done next month
    Out of curiosity: I noticed your gantry base consists of two seperate L-angles. Doesn't the gantry skew if you hold one leg and push the other? If so, you might want to fill up the room between the angles with a plate or something?

    greetings,
    John

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    Thanks John.
    The Gantry really doesn't try to skew yet. I was planning on adding a plate in the center to catch the drive nuts. There are two cap screws on each end of the angle. It is fairly solid. We will see if this will be sufficient. I may need to add some 4" flat steel to the outer portions of the angles just to insure that it stays square.

    I have another question. Duh!
    I am planning on simply putting the motors on in a direct drive configuration with Lovejoy spider couplings. The rod I am using is 5/8" 8 acme thread. I have two square brass nuts for each axis that I will kinda preload. Will I have enough torque this way? I know this will keep the speed up, but only if the motors can turn the thing. At any rate, I think I will test this x axis before I finish the rest of the build. Make sure my ducks are in a row.
    Do any of you guys think this kind of stuff is fun? I am having a blast, even with some minor setbacks.
    Lee

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