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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    53

    Thread cutting

    What is the minimum spindle speed when the machine is set up for thread cutting? The machine specs have minimum spindle speed at 80 rpm, but I seem to recall seeing something as low as in the mid 30's listed for threading.

    80 is a little fast, but I can live with it.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    111
    well with no quick-change gears and no thread dial, it really doesn't matter what the minimum spindle speed is, threading is going to be very difficult at best.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    89
    Yeah, after threading with my 3in1, that is one of the reasons I got the leblond, quick change gearbox, half nuts, lowest spindle speed 25 rpm,and thread dial.

    But before that I have done some threading on my 3in1.

    Changing gears to set up the lathe for threading or feed is a little time consuming.
    No half nuts or thread dial, you can just reverse the spindle at the end of the thread after backing out the tool.
    Just need to practice backing the tool out at the right time
    threading to a shoulder at 80 rpm at 5 TPI would really tax your reflexes.
    Maybe stop the spindle and cut the last couple threads by turning the chuck by hand
    Should be easy to come up with a speed reducer. Maybe a three phase motor and vfd.
    Like Norvil says, threading on a 3in1 without the threading capabilities of a real lathe will be difficult at best, but with any lathe, the more threading you do the better you get.
    Wasn't somebody working on an electronic leadscrew. That would be the ticket.
    You will find ways to overcome the limitations.

    Good Luck
    Flathead

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    53

    Threading and chambering

    Most of my threading will be for rebarreling Mauser actions for custom rifles. I usually run at 45 rpm on a dedicated lathe. One shoptask owner builds target rifles with an older machine. Apparently, his rifles do well enough for 1000 yard competition.

    It is nice to just change gears on a dedicated lathe, but I have the time. I'll do several practice runs on round stock to become familiar with the controls before I run a real barrel.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    53

    Speed

    I found the info on thread cutting speed. The Patriot comes with a low speed set up to allow a speed of 31 rpm for thread cutting. That is slower than I am accustomed to using. That gives me about 13 seconds per cut on a barrel.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    89
    Roadster
    If the patriot goes down to 31 rpm that will work.
    After you get the threading procedure down and some practice you'll be able to increase the spindle speed and probably get a better looking thread and cut down the machining time too.

    Flathead

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    458
    Quote Originally Posted by Roadster View Post
    What is the minimum spindle speed when the machine is set up for thread cutting? The machine specs have minimum spindle speed at 80 rpm, but I seem to recall seeing something as low as in the mid 30's listed for threading.

    80 is a little fast, but I can live with it.
    Roadster,
    80 rpm is the minimum on the Patriot. The older machines had an oprion for 31 rpm, but because of the design change, it does not fit the Patriot model.
    80 is workable once you get the hang of it- its sort of " old school" in that you must start your carriage on the same spot each time- easy with DRO and also start each pass in the same rotational position of the spindle- the spindle indexer does that for you.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    53

    31 rpm

    I saw the ST12 low speed option online as being standard on machines made after 1996. I guess Taylor needs to change that to exclude the Patriot.

    80 rpm will give me 5.6 seconds per pass on a mauser barrel shank .629 inches long. That is roughly 5 seconds plus reaction time to disengage the feed at the relief cut. That should be enough.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    277
    Except for the power feed that part hasn't changed. There a small gear box with 2 RH helical gears for the hand feed on the X axis added that's all. the spindle housings has been the same since 1990 except for a few changes but the old ones will work if modified. Which can be done with a reamer to fit the needle bearings. Also the shaft needs to be turned down. So I don't see any difference with the gearing or any reason to change it due to other design changes.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    53

    thanks for the info digital

    If the speed can still be cut to 31 rpm for threading short distances, it will help.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    111
    the spindle bore is a mt3 , no cathead on rear of spindle so threading a metric thread to a shoulder with no relief cut and no thread dial and no half nut a on bull barrel is going to be interesting. just out of curiosity what is major diameter on Mauser receiver threads?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    277
    Norvil the spindle bore is a MT4 . The tail stock is a MT3.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    111
    well then the barrel might fit thru.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    89
    What are these dedicated lathes or dedicated units you guys are always referring to.

    To me a dedicated machine would be used in a production type environment and set up with fixtures, stops, maybe form tools and then run by an operator with limited skills. The machine would be left set up this way and adjusted by the set-up man until the entire job has been run thru it.

    What is your meaning?

    If by a dedicated unit you are referring to a real lathe that is designed to do many operations quickly and efficiently.

    I hope you don't mind me calling my leblond lathes and my gorton mill "real"
    When someone drops by my shop I show them my two 3in1's then I show them my real lathes and mill. I guess I shouldn't mention them on a 3in1 forum. But I do still use my 3in1"s every once in a while. And it is interesting reading about how some of the machines have been rebuilt and redesigned by their owners. You guys have done some amazing rebuilds.

    Keep up the Good Work
    and Good Luck
    Flathead

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    53

    dedicated

    As in lathe dedicated to turning. As in mill dedicated to milling. Or reference to a machine or object designed for a singular purpose or process which may or may not be capable of other purpose or process.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    53

    barrel

    Final polished shank is 1.20 inches which works fine with the four jaw chuck for threading or simply facing off the chamber end. Sometimes I thread using the four jaw chuck....sometimes with a faceplate, dead center, and dog.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    89
    Like I said, a real lathe is a very versatile machine

    You can also mill on a lathe, if the work is small you can hold it with the tool post with the cutter in the spindle. You can also use a milling attachment.
    Or even a Versamill in the lathe. Or milling cutter held between centers, work held on cross slide or saddle. There are many ways to get milling done in a lathe.

    And you can turn with a mill. Work goes in a collet or chuck in the spindle,
    Cutting tool held in a vise, move the table for cutting depth, raise and lower the quill or knee to make the cut or fix a compound to the table. Not the ideal but it works if you have a mill and no lathe on some work.

    Dedicated units as you call them would be my first choice now that I own and have had experience using both my 3in1's and a lathe and milling machine.
    But everyone has their own preferences and will buy what they want. If they want a 3in1 nobody will talk them out of it. And if they are set on separate machines nobody will talk them into a 3in1.

    Good Luck
    Flathead

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    53

    Nine years

    I know. I've been using a south bend lathe and bridgeport mill for nine years. Occassionally I work with a turnmaster lathe.

    The shoptask is for home use.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    458
    Quote Originally Posted by digitalmdj View Post
    Except for the power feed that part hasn't changed. There a small gear box with 2 RH helical gears for the hand feed on the X axis added that's all. the spindle housings has been the same since 1990 except for a few changes but the old ones will work if modified. Which can be done with a reamer to fit the needle bearings. Also the shaft needs to be turned down. So I don't see any difference with the gearing or any reason to change it due to other design changes.
    On the older 17 20 models, the 31 rpm kit was a couple of extra pulleys that you put between the motor and the center idler. After they went to the hi-low spindle brake design, there was no room for these pulleys. The gearing assembly is pretty much the same on all the machines, just the spindle rpm has changed.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    111
    "Most of my threading will be for rebarreling Mauser actions for custom rifles."

    if you are going to be threading rifle barrels on your new shoptask, you might as well start checking your wheel bearings and tire pressure on your trailer, you are going on a little trip to vagas soon.

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