[SouthbendK1]

Well I got my 2UVR home and put into the garage safely. That thing is HEAVY.

The collar for the knee power feed is broke. I will have to get that welded. Also, the belt cover missing in the photos is now back on the machine.

Let's see if any pictures show up.

[ions82]

What a beauty! You can laugh at the thought of a Bridgeport every time you use it. Box ways, power feed on all three axes... Where are you located, and where did you find that thing? Great machine.

[SouthbendK1]

Thanks.

I'm in Virginia, a little south of Richmond. I bought the machine at Dempsey & Co. in Richmond.

Does anyone know what oil goes in the head? It seems I'm having trouble converting viscosity from sec. to cSt (whatever that is).

It's supposed to use Socony-Mobile DTE Oil-BB (viscosity 85 sec. at 210 degrees F.)

I'm on Enco trying to find what to order.

Thanks

[Ranger_Ric]

That is a beautiful machine, congrats! I just bought one identical to yours and can't wait to get it into my garage, will start a new thread with pics when it comes home.

What are you doing for power? I just ordered am American Rotary 5hp RPC that will be here Thursday. Considered a VFD but I have a freshly rebuilt Sheldon lathe I need to power too so the RPC was least expensive option in the long run.

First Tree? I have been planning on buying this mill for a year now since a friend told me he would sell it to me so I've had a little time to do some research. There is a manual on this board that looks complete except for the motor breakdown and repair section. You can get a high quality repo of the manual with the motor section included from ozarkwoodworker.com

http://woodworker.webfactional.com/i...-parts-manual/

Well best of luck with that thing, I would be interested to hear your evaluation of it once you have had a chance to make some chip.

Rick

[flygirltravel]

Congratualtions!
I bought mine last winter, what a blast! Mine was turned into a cnc machine by Tektronix way back in the 80s. I have removed the old dc servos and drives and installed emerson servos/drives. Just got it running nice the other day and carved out the bottom of a tug boat model in some wood. Everything is kluged together to just get it running for now. Drill press, and lots of washers to get servos mounted. Couldn't use it easily for making mounts. Knee has a ball screw and needs 24in-lbs torque just to keep it up, thing is so heavy. Now I need to machine up some nice motor mounts and mounting plates for drives.

I put Mobile synthetic motor oil in the head. Can't see that it would hurt it as long as it runs cool.

Do you plan on keeping yours as a manual machine?

Good luck with it. They sure are fun.
--bob

[SouthbendK1]

About keeping it a manual machine.

I think that sooner or later I might want to make it a CNC. Do you have any idea what it would cost?

Once it's a CNC, can I still use it manually?

Thanks for the oil information.

[Alaska Bob]

You could convert it to CNC in such a way to be able to use it manually. Cost is so variable. Given enough time to get the right deal on ebay you should be able to get servos and drives for $100-$200 for each axis.

Depending on your requirements, you could use the leadscrews you have or at least the Z axis. The weight of the knee should take care of any backlash there. Not sure how fast you could run though, as it might heat up fairly quickly. If you went ballscrews all around, I think you would be looking at $200 min for each axis off ebay. And that is probably a tough challenge to get ones that fit your requirements.

I'm working on getting a 4th axis set up now. And eventually a 5th axis.

If you are interested, I'm more than happy to send photos of how they converted mine to an NC machine for ideas.

--bob

[lavrgs]

Thanks.

It seems I'm having trouble converting viscosity from sec. to cSt (whatever that is).
Thanks

centi-stoke. I recently heard it mentioned at work but haven't done the google thing on it...

[SouthbendK1]

Bob,

I am interested in the CNC setup. Any info you can give me would be appreciated.

[Alaska Bob]

SouthbendK1,
I'll get some photos together in a couple weeks. I'm out of town right now. I'll send you a note when I do.
--bob

[Javy]

TREE is the ultimate knee mill (my DAD showed me this).
Anyone who owns a TREE mill is a higher class machinist in my opinion.
I've been told TREE mills belong in the forest , but I just laughed at them.
1 of my 3 Tree mills is a 2UVRC model. Which has an extended BOX "X"
axis with power "X" travel.

[SouthbendK1]

My spindle brake is facing the left. It should be facing the right. Any one have any pictures of how that works.

Thanks

[Ranger_Ric]

Finally got my 2UVR home and under power. Love the thing and can only find a couple things wrong with it, hoping someone here can direct me to a solution to one or both problems.

First, there is a lot of rotation play in the spindle. I read a post somewhere about the cams to adjust this but there were no details. There is a pipe plug on the front of the head above the tree logo plate that when removed and the quill lowered, provides access to the cam. There are allen head bolts 180 degrees apart and a couple smaller set screws about 90 degrees from the bolts in the cam. I can't figure out exactly how to adjust them as when I back the bolts out, I can't rotate the cam or adjust the set screws. There is also a significant groove worn into the cam vertically. The post I read briefly described a factory fix that tree was using to replace these cams with rectangular, heat treated blocks but as I said, it was not very clear on the procedure. Anyone know anything about this?

Secondly, my brake has no effect and can be flipped to the right or left, it feels like it is connected to nothing. Before I tore into it I thought I would ask and see if anyone knew what causes this... might just be a broken or loose linkage or something.

Rick

[Dyad1]

Rick,
Lets take care of the second problem first. Sounds like the roll pin in the brake pad shoe to shaft is broken. Remove the aluminum cover from the vari-drive and you can see this item. The rollers on the spindle drive (Tree's substitute for splines) run on eccentric shafts. These are what you thought were set screws on either side of the locking bar with the allen head in the middle. Tightening procedure is to loosen the center screw a little and turn the eccentric shafts to move the rollers against the spindle drive surfaces. Retighten the locking bars. Turn the eccentrics one ccw and one cw. Equal pressure on each. Also not too tight or this will make the spindle a bit tight and rough going up and down. The square shoes you mentioned were used on the 2VG (3 hp.) machines. They are larger than the round ones used on the smaller machines.
Hope this helps a little bit. If you need more give a shout.

[SouthbendK1]

Here is my spindle stop. If you look back a page you will see the handle is pointing left.

The manual shows the proper position is pointed right, slightly downward. I'm going to attempt to fix mine today.

I'm going to have to knock the roll pin out of the brake piece and look at it with the handle in the correct position.

[Ranger_Ric]

Rick,
Lets take care of the second problem first. Sounds like the roll pin in the brake pad shoe to shaft is broken. Remove the aluminum cover from the vari-drive and you can see this item.

Thank you for the advice and the pictures. I just took the cover off and the roll pin is sticking about .250 out of the brake so it's either backed out or sheared. Unfortunately I see I have to take my motor off to get to it! Bought a good reproduction manual that includes the motor sections and glancing at, I see it's not too difficult. Don't have the time to do it tonight though, maybe get to it this weekend.

[QUOTE=Tightening procedure is to loosen the center screw a little and turn the eccentric shafts to move the rollers against the spindle drive surfaces. Retighten the locking bars. Turn the eccentrics one ccw and one cw. Equal pressure on each. Also not too tight or this will make the spindle a bit tight and rough going up and down. [/QUOTE]

So when you loosen the center bolt, you rotate the whole eccentric, is that correct? You do this by using right ot left hand torque with the allenwrench in the bolt head?

Rick

I put some pictures on the web of my mill homecoming and install...

http://www.fortweb.com/photos/TreeVerticalMill/

[Dyad1]

Rick,
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. The allen screw in the middle is the locking screw. When you tighten it down on the metal clip this causes the clip to spread out against the eccentric shafts to keep them from rotating loose
again (unfortunately this system doesn't work real well, the pounding from heavy cuts will loosen then soon). Note: there is a clip on both sides. I don't really know if you have to turn one eccentric ccw and the other cw, that is just the way I have always done it. Some times the shafts break and you only end up tightening one of the two rollers on that side. Then you need to lift the motor/varidrive unit off to fix. Two nuts, one front and one back, remove quill feed belt then lift up off. Notice the centering ring in the head housing. Don't forget to put this back at assembly with clearance notch for the quill stop in the proper position. If you have trouble PM me and I will give you my phone number and you can call.
Good luck,
Gary

[Alaska Bob]

Thanks for the information of the spindle cam adjustment. Seems that I also have a lot of slop up in the gear train. Is this normal? Is there a common cause that usually causes this?

I've got the machine (2uvrc) set up as a cnc and it's starting to cut parts! It is just way too cool to be able to do this at home. Milling up brackets for the 4th axis mount.

Now I need to start casting some aluminum to get near net shape parts.
--bob