[ahren]

Ghostlx,

Our shipment of adapters to move the resistor to the drive end should be in either this week or next. I can send you a set as soon as they arrive. Please email me a reminder through our website if you get a chance, but this should be the easiest way to "move" the resistor.

Best regards,

Ahren
CNCRouterParts

[jsantos]

Ghostlx,

Our shipment of adapters to move the resistor to the drive end should be in either this week or next. I can send you a set as soon as they arrive. Please email me a reminder through our website if you get a chance, but this should be the easiest way to "move" the resistor.

Best regards,

Ahren
CNCRouterParts

Ahren,

Can I get those adapters too please?

Thanks.

[jsantos]

Finally took the first step in upgrades. I had ripped down a tower PC case to use as a base for everything. Added in my 5 and 12v power supplies on stand offs.

Need to pull the 48v and put that one in there, then start wiring it all up.

Oh, this is too funny. I just redid my controller box too and added a 5/12/24 power supply.

[jsantos]

hello im chilean i like you cnc, please i need plans for construction, thanks

Hey guys,

ramadihel started a project log here -> http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_s...tml#post901631 and really looking for help in building a cnc. I'm helping him but I think he needs more than myself for help.

[ghostlx]

Ghostlx,

Our shipment of adapters to move the resistor to the drive end should be in either this week or next. I can send you a set as soon as they arrive. Please email me a reminder through our website if you get a chance, but this should be the easiest way to "move" the resistor.

Best regards,

Ahren
CNCRouterParts

Ahren
cool thanks for the help :cheers:
left you a email on your web site .thanks for the help . looking forward to doing more business in the near future.
going to build a cnc lathe next and i'm going to use your motors and electronics talk to you soon
ghostlx

[ghostlx]

From what I've read, I'd check there first. Seems like some people have problems with the cables, but others don't.

today i added 4 pc tower case fans,strapped them to the stepper motors I took readings for the first 4 hrs .gecko under load was 119 deg to 121 deg. the motors never got above 90 deg. will test further tomorrow im going to cut the same design again where they were missing steps after 6 hrs and see if the problem repeats I will record the temps. to see if any changes or if it looses any steps
thanks
ghostlx

[Arbo]

Well, I finally had a bit of time, and nothing (that I know of) that I need to use the machine for... so I got started wiring up the power supplies in their new box (ie tower pc case).

Yeah, the 48v supply is in crooked... I must have twisted the template I made for the holes... oh well, not anal enough to care if it is straight.

Power supplies wired.. black is ground, red is 110v, blue 12, green 5v... will probably use red for the 48v...

Second picture shows looking in, made a coroplast template for where the three fans will fit on the back. Will probably cut this back plate (to close up all the holes) out of 1/8 hard board or something.

Last shows where the G540 will go.. power switch in the upper left of that hole... I have a big sheet of blue 'carbon' plate, will probably use that to cut out a whole new 'faceplate' and attach it to the front, with foam on the edges to seal it... will have a fan blowing on the G540 and at least one more down on the bottom pushing air out that the three back fans will be blowing in.

[Arbo]

Today after work I managed to get the cable carrier for the Y on... and all the wires run where they need to be, for the sPID and switches and such.

Need to pick up a new long extension chord to use from the wall to the sPID for router power. Then route it through the x and y chain carriers.

Waiting for the project box for the sPID. So will wire up the 'run' relay and and magnetic home switches and such so it will be ready to go when the box arrives, pick up a brass tube to mount the sensor in as well.

Pics of the Y chain carrier in place, last one showing where the box with the sPID will be mounted.

[Arbo]

Super PID in and working. Using manual knob for speed control. Mach turns it on and off.

Next up is the mag home switches for x and y.

[ghostlx]

Super PID in and working. Using manual knob for speed control. Mach turns it on and off.

Next up is the mag home switches for x and y.

arbo how did you get by the soft start feature on the porter cable router to be able to control your speed
ghostlx

[Arbo]

I took out the built in speed control completely. The power wires come in, one side goes direct to the router on/off switch, then to one side of the motor, the other power goes straight to the other side of the motor.

[ghostlx]

I took out the built in speed control completely. The power wires come in, one side goes direct to the router on/off switch, then to one side of the motor, the other power goes straight to the other side of the motor.

thanks a lot i did not know you could do that man that will help a lot being able to slow the router speed down. could you post a pic of what you removed
thanks
ghoistlx

[Arbo]

Here you go...

white wire from cord goes to red wire which goes down to the brush on one side. Black wire across to switch, comes out in yellow wire which I spliced to red that goes to brush on other side.

Completely removed speed control. Had to cut red and yellow on right from the speed control, and disconnect a wire that connected in the blue cap to speed control.

[Arbo]

All home switches wired up and working awesome.

Also put on the soigeneris ex-g540 connectors on the end that plugs into the G540. I have the machine just on at idle now, will see if this takes care of the hot steppers or not.

Next is removing the old electronic box that was attached to the table. Putting in an on/off switch in the new box and sliding it under the table and organizing the cables so it's tidy.

[Arbo]

Interestingly, with the ex-g540 connectors down at the G540, thus the 'resistor' down there... motors still get very warm. So far not as hot as I have seen them, but I haven't run the machine for a lengthy time yet.

[HereinCS]

Interestingly, with the ex-g540 connectors down at the G540, thus the 'resistor' down there... motors still get very warm. So far not as hot as I have seen them, but I haven't run the machine for a lengthy time yet.

Hi Arbo. I'm curious since I use the g540 and the ez540 connectors. My steppers get really warm. How warm does yours get...can you grab the motor for a minute or so warm or is it untouchably warm?

[Arbo]

It used to be that after running for a couple hours you didn't want to grab them... I could as my tolerance is pretty high.. but you don't hold on for too long. I used to have an infrared thermometer, it showed I was hitting mid 150's at times....

I don't have that any more, so I can't measure the temp. So I need to set up a job to run a couple hours then grab them and see if there is any difference at all.

[LabSkis]

Hello Arbo,

I am building a cnc that looks pretty much like yours (see picture of my design of 2mx1m).
First of all, thanks for sharing all your plans & building tips! It really helps!

Two questions:
1) How did you ensure the precision of the cut of "8020 feets" of the CNC, when one expect a CNC with less than a mm of precision (I am talking of the vertical bars)? Do you have an idea of the precision of the z axis? On a 2m long axis, it must be difficult to keep things perfectly horizontal no?

2) Did you happen to find a de synchronization between the two motors of the x axis? Are they coupled in way?

Thanks for those precisions!

[Arbo]

Hello Arbo,

I am building a cnc that looks pretty much like yours (see picture of my design of 2mx1m).
First of all, thanks for sharing all your plans & building tips! It really helps!

Two questions:
1) How did you ensure the precision of the cut of "8020 feets" of the CNC, when one expect a CNC with less than a mm of precision (I am talking of the vertical bars)? Do you have an idea of the precision of the z axis? On a 2m long axis, it must be difficult to keep things perfectly horizontal no?

2) Did you happen to find a de synchronization between the two motors of the x axis? Are they coupled in way?

Thanks for those precisions!

Man, that looks awesome. I already want to modify my Z so it is like yours... that looks a lot more clean.

I never really thought about the precision of the feet to be honest. Once I put down the spoil board I just surface the whole thing and have sort of always assumed that would make it all good enough. Hasn't been a problem in anything I have done so far.

The X and A axis are coupled in Mach 3 so they both work as an X axis, and I have not had any issues with lack of sync, or binding or any such thing.

[LabSkis]

Man, that looks awesome. I already want to modify my Z so it is like yours... that looks a lot more clean.

I never really thought about the precision of the feet to be honest. Once I put down the spoil board I just surface the whole thing and have sort of always assumed that would make it all good enough. Hasn't been a problem in anything I have done so far.

The X and A axis are coupled in Mach 3 so they both work as an X axis, and I have not had any issues with lack of sync, or binding or any such thing.

For the precision of Z axis, the precision of the feet cut should have an impact I guess. Good if it doesn't affect it too much.

For the A & X axis, my concern was that one of the steppers might loose a step or more, which would fool Mach3. Good also if you didn't notice anything!

Concerning the design of Z axis, I first designed it the way you did. And then decided to switch to this "back to back carriage" solution. One of the impact of this change is that I had to redesign the length of the feet (from 10mm to minimum 15 mm) to be able to use the full range of Z axis (15mm). Take this into consideration if you modify your cnc...

PS: BTW, did you use the "lite" version of aluminium extrusion or heavy one?