[Arbo]

Received the dymondwood, thanks. Was away since thursday, son's high school marching band was at states, and I was there to help out and watch as well. 8th in state, highest score they have had, first time in finals and highest placement. Was a fun but draining weekend.

[Dylwad]

No problem it weighs a good bit more than the same size chunk of birch ply huh?

[Arbo]

Haven't been out to the shed in a bit, been occupied by work and in the house stuff. Still waiting the list of names from the marching band director to continue with that project. Would have thought it wasn't hard to email a list of names.

[Arbo]

I have long been working on some pistol grips for a friend. They are close, but my 'issue' seems to be doing 2 sided, and not getting the flip lined up quite right. So I drill my spoil board for pins, and the stock to be cut get's the same holes. This allows an equal flip no matter the width of the stock. I set it up to have x and y 0 at the center of the piece, and came to realize I wasn't getting that perfect either. So I made the below 'tool' to help. Now I have a file that cuts the peg holes in the spoil board and one in the center. I slip this piece in the center hole and use the |<-X->| and |<-Y->| in the probe tool to set x and y at a correct zero, then peg and clamp down the stock and cut.

[Dylwad]

Interesting, have you seen this thread? http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192432

I don't do any high production 2 sided stuff, so I usually just mill pockets the parts fit tight into to finish the back side, this way I know the placement in all 3 axes is spot on.

[Arbo]

No, I had not seen that, it's slick. Thanks for pointing it out.

[Arbo]

Well dammit! I finally got all the names for my project for the marching band. Got all set up, started to cut… Y went way off.

Stopped it, figured I could just use the other side… slowed things down (feed) and started again, same thing. Ugh. A 65 dollar piece of cherry wasted….

Investigated the machine as I was mad and sad (as this was going to be presented saturday, now no way).. did some g0y20, g0y0's, back and forth, then saw the y slip… turns out the screw on the coupling on the stepper had backed out so the stepper shaft was slipping in the coupler. ARGH!

Fixed that, threw down a 24x48 piece of MDF to run it again to ensure that was all that was wrong, half way through the cut is great.

Now if only I was lucky enough to find a good piece of wood that was 24x40" early tomorrow, but I know that's not gonna happen.

[CarveOne]

Bummer, for sure. It's those shop gremlins hiding over in the dark corner of the room.

[Arbo]

Found out the corian will be in this coming week. Will be nice to get it and get this project done.

I the mean time I bought some of the metallic paints that actually have metal in them, and can be patinaed. Cutting an old school v carve myan calendar from MDF and will prime then use the copper paint, then patina a bit to see how good it comes out.

[Arbo]

Attachment 210130

This is some of the sophisticated finishes, copper, with green patina. Put too much patina on first go and had to brush on a light coat of copper on the flats to get it to look a little more like I wanted. Not bad, no doubt a bit to learn on the techniques for using the stuff.

[Jerseydog]

Hey arbo I'm about finished painting the steel rails. I was wondering what do you put on the bare metal to keep it from rusting? I have a bottle of bostik topcoat, should I use something like this? Using oil would it accumulate dust and maybe make the bearing stick?

[Dylwad]

Hey arbo I'm about finished painting the steel rails. I was wondering what do you put on the bare metal to keep it from rusting? I have a bottle of bostik topcoat, should I use something like this? Using oil would it accumulate dust and maybe make the bearing stick?

I used to use silicone spray on a rag to clean the bare steel and keep it from rusting but switched to Eezox recently and it works much better. It's a dry lube/cleaner for firearms that is probably the best anti corrosion coating available that doesn't attract dust.

[Jerseydog]

I used to use silicone spray on a rag to clean the bare steel and keep it from rusting but switched to Eezox recently and it works much better. It's a dry lube/cleaner for firearms that is probably the best anti corrosion coating available that doesn't attract dust.

I just bought a 3oz bottle of eezox and was wondering how do you apply it? I know it has to go on the bare metal but will it peel the paint? Should i just use a rag to apply it to metal. Thanks for your response.

[Dylwad]

I just use a small rag or patch, the solvent in it might hurt the paint, so be careful. A little goes a long way. Wear gloves, it's stinky stuff.

[Arbo]

Hey arbo I'm about finished painting the steel rails. I was wondering what do you put on the bare metal to keep it from rusting? I have a bottle of bostik topcoat, should I use something like this? Using oil would it accumulate dust and maybe make the bearing stick?

Since I live in Colorado where it's dry (we average under 20% humidity in the winter), and dries quick, I haven't put anything on it. So far not a bit of rust.

[Jerseydog]

Hey arbo I want to start building my z-axis. What size should i get the 1530 piece? Where did you get the parts to build it? I have next week off and will like to order all the parts to work on it during the week. Thanks for your help.

[graham641]

Has anyone tried gun blue used on steel gun barrels? It completely prevents corrosion and lasts for a few lifetimes.

[Arbo]

Oh, long time since I checked this thread, sorry. Jerseydog, depends on z movement desired. Mine is built with the c&c router parts stuff.

I finally picked up the big piece of corian material for the high school band project of mine. Cut it yesterday, sprayed it this morning, then some sanding. Need to clean out the lettering better, then clear coat. Then epoxy on some wood on the back as a hanger for it.

[ger21]

Then epoxy on some wood on the back as a hanger for it.

A better choice is a good quality silicone sealant. That's what's used to fasten Corian counter tops to their substrates. Corian expands and contracts quite a bit with temperature changes, and wood expands quite a bit with changes in humidity. Both of these will cause an epoxy bond to fail over time. Silicone allows both to move quite freely, and it sticks really well to just about everything. Just put a big dab every 6-8".

[Arbo]

Well, too late for that, as I didn't see this post and it is delivered.