[LongRat]

Yeah, I've got a 4" swivelling base vice on my X2 and when I transplanted it onto the big machine it looked tiny. Looks like Warco give you the VIP treatment with the paint, I didn't get any of that. I did run in the gearbox for a couple of hours before I cut anything, and saw 50RPM or so increase in speed as the grease etc warmed up and everything bedded in. Took a notch out of a big block of aluminium to test the cutting performance, then stripped it down. Next time it runs will be as a CNC machine. Made a decision whether or not to CNC yours yet?

[digits]

I've still not cut anything on it yet - spent all today reorganising the garage and moving it to a more permanent position.

I did fire up the spindle though - it's fairly nice and quiet, but doesn't seem to be loose enough to hit the stated max rpm - low got to about 700 and high was about 2100 - I'm hoping that a few hours running in will increase those a little.

I'm still not sure about CNCing it - I wasn't going to, and if I did, the low spindle speed would be a pain when cutting aluminium. That said, 500+mm of X-travel is a lot of handle cranking - I'd definately want a power feed if I don't go CNC - but I'd be tempted to DIY that, and no doubt it'd end up being a full CNC conversion!

Speaking of which, have you started ordering parts for your CNC conversion? TBH, I think my decision to CNC or not will be heavily infulenced by how much pain you have to go through to get yours working! Good Luck! :cheers:

Oh, and I bought a bigger vice - it's a little too big though, the base is wider than the table, and at >40kg it weighs more than my X-1

[LongRat]

Man that vice is enormous! What size model is it?
As for the CNC conversion, I don't think it is going to be very difficult. All the screws are ordered and I expect to get them fairly soon. Once I have them and can do some test fitting, I'll post all the dimensions/drawings on my thread so you could just go ahead and order exactly the same stuff - if you were happy with the way I did it. The cost for everything needed - bearings, blocks, screws and nuts, couplers - is about £300, shipped.

[digits]

That vice is a Vertex VA-6 6" beast. I think I'd forgotten that my old vices are only 4" ones - I really would be better off with a 5" one, but I haven't seen any....

Those ballscrews sound amazingly good value - I really look forward to seeing how you get on. I did see some interesting info on the 'official' conversion package - I'll post it on your conversion thread though...

Cheers.

[machinechick]

A while ago in this thread someone was looking for a SK20 spindle with quick change capability for their BF20 style mill. Well, when I was checking out some machines online I spotted this company, USOVO, www.usovo.de. They make a manual quick change spindle with a SK20 taper for these machines which seems to have some merit. It reminds me of the qwik-switch system that I have used on Bridgeport style CNC knee mills. I have the version of this mill/drill with the auto-eject MT2 taper and after making an investment in collet holders, etc., I would rather just put a air or electric powered rachet with the torque set properly, on it, which the machine seems ideally suited for. It would be real interesting to see if anyone else has done this to this style of mill.

[digits]

Those look like cool-little spindles - shame there's no 30-taper version though.

[machinechick]

I agree it would be better with a 30 taper. But the real issue with the taper size with all of the mill drills is until you reach the RF40/BF40 level is that even if they have a larger taper, the manufacturer/designers have always added it as an after thought and "tacked" it on under the head past the spindle bearings. In some fashion this then becomes a less rigid set up then the orginal morse tapers if one considers that the closer the tool itself is to the spindle bearing the more (hopefully) rigidity is present. For the most part I have been satisfied with the MT2 (especially with the self-eject design) taper in the Optimum version. The only real issue I had was having to order most of my tooling from Hong Kong and paying more for airmail then the cost of the holders The Bf20 style mill is available from Weiss in the US from Lathemaster with a R8 taper, it would be interesting to hear from someone who has one to compare performance with the original design.

[digits]

You could always build your own R8 head - I used a super X-3 spindle from LMS on my DIY cnc, and despite my rather dodgy lathe skills, it ran pretty true...

The guys that really rebuilt their BF20 from the ground up used an MT3 lathe spindle from LMS and made a new head: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...55&postcount=8

It seems to cut rather well in the videos...

[machinechick]

I'm not a big fan of R8 tapers, the main advantage I can see is cheap available tooling on fleabay and a larger diameter, IMO a 30 taper has more advantages and is much more compatable with auto tool changing. The larger diameter (and popularity) of the R8's does open the possiblity of after market auto changers-all of which are relatively expensive in comparison to the cost of these mills, and again opens up the issue of "hanging" the tool even farther away from the spindle bearings, which in my experience leads to chatter. On all the drill mills on the market the tool holders are held in by the drawbar, and in the case of the MT's the taper also, and it's the use of the draw bars that resist the axial stress. If I ever get around to it I think I'll just rig an air or electric rachet ala "quick switch" on top that takes advatage of the auto eject feature that came with the MT2 version of the mill. Suppose if I do it I'll start a new thread describing the process.

[ihavenofish]

busybee tools in canada sells their own version of the weiss wmd20/25v. something interesting you can buy from them is an r8 spindle cartridge. i think its $125 and simply replaces the old one. i do not know if it fits other similar machines, or only the busybee version though. note that you lose about 1.5' of Z clearance with this option.

weiss offers r8 spindles on the wmd25v/lv and wmd30v/lv. i think if you contacted your dealer you might be able to get a replacement part, or order a new machine with this option.

opti also ofers and iso30 spindle for the bf30. ive asked if weiss also makes this option but havent gotton a response yet.

[munchyboy]

Hi Everyone,

Been watching both this thread, and Mr LongRats conversion thread with a growing degree of interest/excitement, as my WM-18 is almost here (2 weeks away, so I'm told). I'm quite keen on fitting a DRO before I attempt a CNC conversion - so I guess this question is aimed at digits specifically - how accurate are the travel specs in the Warco datasheet ? It states 425mm and 220mm for X and Y - so should I trust that and get a 220mm scale, for example ?

All the best - and thanks !

James.

[LongRat]

I have the longer table version and I'm pretty sure Digits does too. That's 597mm travel in X but you are about right on the Y. Are you getting the original smaller table machine or the longer one? I thought they only sold the longer one now.

[digits]

Yeah, LongRat is right - Warco's travel numbers are off.

I reckon I have about 205mm of Y and ~590mm of X travel - well I did but I discovered at the weekend that my left-hand handwheel collides with my Y-axis DRO bracketry and loses me some travel! I'll have to fix that!

What sort of DRO's are you planning? I can get you the sizes for the machine-dro ones I've got on my machine if you like - they seem to fit the castings pretty well, and they seem pretty well made.

[machinedemon]

Sorry to momentarily kidnap your thread but were can I buy those machines in the US? I knew Lathemaster had them, but he is being out of stock for months.

I appreciate your help!

MD

[digits]

Hi Everyone,

Been watching both this thread, and Mr LongRats conversion thread with a growing degree of interest/excitement, as my WM-18 is almost here (2 weeks away, so I'm told). I'm quite keen on fitting a DRO before I attempt a CNC conversion - so I guess this question is aimed at digits specifically - how accurate are the travel specs in the Warco datasheet ? It states 425mm and 220mm for X and Y - so should I trust that and get a 220mm scale, for example ?

All the best - and thanks !

James.

Hi James - I just checked, I have a 620mm scale on X, a 270mm on Y and a 420mm on Z.

[munchyboy]

Thats lovely stuff - Warco's datasheet is still showing the small table, hence the discrepancy.

I was looking at one of the cheapie ones on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=250570422442

Not bad for the money, I thought... Which machine-dro unit do you have ? any chance of some pics of scales in situ ?

My one is (or will be !) the long table version.

Cheers !

James.

[digits]

Thats lovely stuff - Warco's datasheet is still showing the small table, hence the discrepancy.

I was looking at one of the cheapie ones on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=250570422442

Not bad for the money, I thought... Which machine-dro unit do you have ? any chance of some pics of scales in situ ?

My one is (or will be !) the long table version.

Cheers !

James.

I've not got any pics of the Z, but there are a couple in this thread of mine:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=475

Cheers.

[munchyboy]

Thats really useful - thanks digits. How much space is there behind the table when Y is wound in - any chance a slim scale would fit there ?

As soon as mine arrives I'll stop pestering you !

James.

[digits]

Thats really useful - thanks digits. How much space is there behind the table when Y is wound in - any chance a slim scale would fit there ?

As soon as mine arrives I'll stop pestering you !

James.

Hmm, I don't know TBH - there's not much room back there, and you've got the rubber chip-guard to contend with. If I remember, I'll crank the table all the way back and measure it for you.

I was also a bit worried about drilling into the table - I just used the travel stops' dovetailed-nuts to mount the X-scale on the front.

[digits]

I reckon with the table cranked all the way back, there's only about 10-15mm of room in there between the back of the table and the column.