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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    19

    Wood Router Podding System Locator

    Hey guys. I was wondering if anyone has any real experience with using a pod-style system, locating a part that is going to be machined all the way around the perimeter, and has no holes to allow a through bolt/nut to clamp it?

    Green is my spoil board perimeter (because I use a spoil board and will fixture my pods onto it via through-screws), red is the part outer diameter, blue is the toolpath.

    These pieces will need to be located as square as possible! I am having the parts come at me .500" oversize in length and width. Grain direction and maintaining a near parallel direction is important as well.

    So, who has a good suggestion? This one's new to me! :cheers:


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    187
    I would mount 3 locating blocks (1/4" mdf???) for each piece, 2 along the long side, 1 along the width. Use a stapler to attach them. you could even cut the perimiter of the oversize stock into the into the spoilboard to help in positioning the locating blocks.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    19
    Guess I should explain a little more in depth, or if you've already understood what I was saying, can you explain a little more?, because that explanation isn't making sense to me, sorry.

    I will have a .750" auger run around the perimeter first, then come in with two different profile tools. The profile tools would/will contact any locating blocks/pins that would locate the panel. Basically, my panel is .500" oversize, but I need a 1.5" safety around the whole panel to not make contact. The reason I'm podding these up off the table is because I will have a profiled tool to undercut the bottom edge...

    Make any more sense? I can post a picture of the profile and proposed pod system if need be.

    Thanks,
    Travis

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    187
    Ahhhhh, didn't realize you were using 3/4 inch dia tool. Well my suggestion doesn't do you any good does it. Fixture from above and then remove placement fixture before running?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Can't you just make a "spacer" that butts up to the pods that you can align the parts with? Are they vacuum pods?
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

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    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    19
    I could make a spacer, but the panels aren't all exact. They will be coming at me rough oversize, meaning out of the glue wheel and through our planer, then to me. The edges will still be the rough glued sides, not trimmed to a specific size, so relying on a spacer would project the irregularities to the following panels.

    Yeah, .75" tool for my auger, but my profiled tool is even larger (around a 2"dia, so asking for a 1.5" space between panels just gives me a bit of safety room).

    I think I'm going to have to rely simply on the ghost lines that my auger will be machining into the board to locate these pieces. Thanks for the input though guys.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    76
    Might also think about doing the operation in two parts. First cut the underside with the parts upside down in you locating jig. Then flip them to run the top. Then you could use a simple recess in your spoilboard to index the blanks.

    I work in the woodworking world as well. It's amazing the jobs they through at the machine with little or no idea what it take to make it happen (or if it's even possible)!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by jaydawg View Post
    Might also think about doing the operation in two parts. First cut the underside with the parts upside down in you locating jig. Then flip them to run the top. Then you could use a simple recess in your spoilboard to index the blanks.

    I work in the woodworking world as well. It's amazing the jobs they through at the machine with little or no idea what it take to make it happen (or if it's even possible)!
    While this is a viable option, handling and locating the piece more than once is less than desirable. I ended up doing just what I said and used the ghost lines and it worked very well. It takes an extra minute (figuratively speaking) to get everything lined up well enough that I won't be under anywhere, but it's less time than relocating the work piece and cycling it a second time.

    I know what you mean about being asked to do some ridiculous things with the machine... Engineers and salesmen (and owners to some extent) have no idea what's involved in production and it's annoying. I've worked my way up from the very bottom, so being knowledgeable with what to expect (and reasonable with those requests) has been very helpful. I just wish I could show some of those guys what it takes to make the machine do what it does, and the problems some of their requests bring. Oh well though. =)

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