[gbowne1]

Hi there!

I have some R8, 5C, NMTB 40mm and CAT45 tooling that accumulates rust a lot. Can't seem to get a good hold on it to stop the rust, or have I figured out how to get the rust cleaned off, other than using a tub of CLR (TM) solution, and a wire brush, and to spray on some WD40 in a light coating.

Is there anything better than this? Any suggestions as to a solution? I live in a WET Cliamate in Seattle, WA. I keep the room the tools are stored in at about 68 degrees most of the time.

Thanks,
Gregory Bowne :wave:

[ynneb]

Would Fish oil help?
I use fish oil on my car and router and it works fine for me.
You can get it real cheap in a spray can for about 2 bucks.

[gbowne1]

Fish oil? Gee.. never thought about that.

It's certainly a thought. At this point, I'd about try anything. Every thing I try lately, it seems all it does is rust again.

-- Greg

[ynneb]

The good thing about fish oil is it is know for flowing into very fine areas ( has good capilary action ) and will dry to leave a protective coating on your steel.
I dont suggest you go out and buy a can of sardines and use the juice that comes out of that
The fish oil I am talking about is specially made for rust prevention treatments.

[psychomill]

Some tooling oil will work. Should be available from your tool supplier. I'm not sure about fish oil... never tried it. The key thing too is to bag it. Oil it, bag it, suck the air out and seal it. This won't last forever but it will go a hell of a lot longer than sitting on a cart in the tool room. Also, be sure all of the coolant is off of the tool. Water soluable (sp?) oil has.... water in it! Oil will draw moisture by itself so bagging and sealing will help keep the moisture off.

If this is a bit far fetched, have someone check on them more ofter to wipe them down and re-oil the tools.

Also, maybe look into getting a drier for the tool room to remove the moisture in the air?

Rust is a bad deal for tool holders. I usually toss them. I don't want the pitting destroying spindles, even if they look good after cleaning them.

JM2C

[gbowne1]

Tooling oil? Hmmm.. now that's a bit more like it.

I know it's not a good thing to put rusty tools in the spindle.. and now that the original lustre of the tools are just about gone

Well, that sounds like the trick.

I never thought about the bagging and sealing trick though. But one thing I would mention is that my spindles don't have through coolant.

Anyhow.. That sounds like an option to me. Like I said, I'd just about try anything at this point.

:idea:
Greg

[DareBee]

Maybe a simplier version of the room dehumidifier. Get or build a tool cabinet with a dehumidifier/ heater in it. I believe you can buy gun cabinets with this type of setup.

[gbowne1]

Ok,

I've been away at work for a week. I've been away looking at dehumidifiers for shop-type applications. Not much luck. Though, I was curious when that came up. Air filtration systems and humidifiers come up, but was really thinking about this one.

Most of my tooling sits in a Craftsman type drawered cabinet such as those made by HUOT, Lista, etc. and not in carts..

One of my other questions is could one buy a certian type of plastic endmill/cutter type boxes to store R8 and also 5C collets? That could potentioally solve half my problem.

Ok. Any other suggestions?

Greg

[RotarySMP]

You are from Boeing country. Try LPS3. It is a corrosion inhibitor widely used on A/C.

[Harlow]

I bought a residential type of de-humidifier from Home Depot a couple of years ago and it works great. I live in Louisiana, our average humidity is probably 85-90 %. Noticed a difference immediately. They come with a catch basin for the water which has to be emptied on a regular basis but you can remove that and run a drain line out the shop wall as I did.

[gbowne1]

Well, I'm glad to see the trick worked. I finally used a Kenmore de-humidifier in my tool room which has helped a grandiose amount. But, I cleaned the tools very well. I sprayed on a few different types of lubricant which has helped. It's been a few months now, and the tools are virtually rust free!

:idea:
Yours Truly,
Greg

[mxtras]

Greg -

I live in Virginia - where it rains if you spit in the air. Light surface rust is a constant battle. I have almost always used cheap paper towels and CRC or Rustlick - the paper towel holds more oil in place and conforms to the parts plus it keeps the germs away. I store the important stuff in a somewhat sealed cabinet with a 25 watt light bulb that stays on from September until May - condensation is a huge issue in the spring and fall.

SO - I am very interested to know - Which oil did you find to be the best overall?????????? And I want specifics, darn it - - who, where and what!!!!!!!!

Thanks.

Scott

[ViperTX]

The Boeing stuff works great here in Austin, TX....high humidity.

[bikertrash]

I have used small blocks of camphor (I think that is spelled correct) for years to keep rust of my tooling. You can purchase them at drug store. Just cut them open and throw them in your tool box.
Also toilet bowl cleaner will take rust off just be sure to clean it all off it may dull your finish some.

Pete

[mxtras]

I have used small blocks of camphor (I think that is spelled correct) for years to keep rust of my tooling. Pete

"camphor" - you use it like a desicant? Do you have to change it out? I am not sure I even know what it is!!

Scott

[bikertrash]

"camphor" - you use it like a desicant? Do you have to change it out? I am not sure I even know what it is!!

Scott

I guess it will take the moisture out of the air. It comes in different forms, what I use are small blocks that are wrapped in plastic. All you have to do is cut a couple of slits in the plastic then I just set a couple in the drawers of my tool boxes.
I did a search and it seems it is used in vapor rubs and topical pain releivers. All that I could find in the blocks was senthetic and I am not sure if that is what I use I will have to check.
I was given this tip when I was an apprentice and I have always purchased them at a small local drug store. They will deteriorate after a while but they last a fairly long time. I need to get some more so I will check to see if they are synthetic.

Hope this helps,
Pete

[Geof]

"camphor" - you use it like a desicant? Do you have to change it out? I am not sure I even know what it is!!

Scott

It will keep the moths away from your tools as well. Camphor was used to keep moths away from woollen and fur goods when stored for the summer. It is not a dessicant; it does not absorb water. It is volatile and solid camphor will sublimate away as a vapor. Probably it protects tools by depositing a layer of camphor on the metal once it reaches equilibrium vapor pressure in a closed container. Smells sort of sweet but is poisonous.

[EDM_Fixer]

i repair wire EDMs ... there for the parts are machined in very corrosive DI water ... call someone like electrodes inc. they have the stuff used in EDM dielectric fluid ( DI water ) and if youve ever been around an EDM you know parts will begin to rust in a few min. ... this can be added to an EDM without messing up the DI water ... bet it wont mess up your water soluable coolant .. Have Fun .. Jim :wee:

[vladdy]

In my tool case of 'seldom used' tooling and shop tools I have a small brass mesh bag of calcium chloride, and a funnel underneath it with a tube running out of the case. The box holds mostly specialty drivers, sockets, pullers and such as well as most of the lathe / mill tooling that is not normally used daily, or even weekly... Calcium chloride is available [cheaply] at most tire shops that work on industrial or agricultural equipment, it's what is added to water and then used as additional 'wet' internal tire ballast, as opposed toexternal weights..
It doesn't need to be topped off for long periods of time, and will collect humidity out of the air at any temperature above freezing..
To give the tools some extra protection I use 'PAM', it's a spray for cooking sheets, and leaves a nice protection layer, very smooth, relatively non hardening, and apparantly edible [if that matters to you ..]. I also coat firearms with it for normal storage.
My garage is only heated in the winter when I need it, and tends to biuld up fairly high humidity levels,so this combination works fairly well.
I also tried CRC 5-56, and it works 'almost' as well but doesn't seem to last quite as long a storage period.
CRC is more protective of damage from hydrochloric acid , long story..

enjoy..

[widgitmaster]

Rust is truly a pain in the a$$, most of the previous posts were dedicated to the removal of rust, and some on prevention. It has been my experience that three main things are the cause in most shops! First is the air conditioning, as a cold shop will condense on metal when the AC is turned down for the evening. Second, the water soluble coolant mix could be too thin or too old, and not have enough coolant in the water. Third is all those beer dirking people; consequently, the yeast in beer tends to give some people rusty fingers! Everything they touch turns to rust!
There is one other cause, and that's only found in shops that do their own metal etching, and plating, the chemicals can also settle like an acid rain! That's not too common these days, as health issues have placed more stringent controls on how these chemicals are used.

As I read this, it makes me laugh! As I've had my share of rust fingers & rusty nails!


So leave the AC on, use cutting oil and serve milk! :cheers:

Eric