[claas900]

Hello, I just bought an older Jet Drill Milling Machine. But I'm having trouble finding any info on it. Best I can tell its most like the Rong Fu-31? The machine is painted Green and best I can tell it's always been green.
The tag on it says Jet-16 12speed
Table 9-3/8x23-1/2
Drilling Capacity 1-1/4
1hp 1phase
I've been looking for a parts manual or any place to get parts for it. I'd love to get a power feed for the table or better yet make something but I'm not sure what to start with? Any Help would be great. I hope this is the right place to post this.

[Bubba]

I have several copies of manuals for this type of machine. There seems to be very little difference between them. Attached is a copy of one for a jet machine. Hope this helps.

[claas900]

Thanks. I'll take what I can get. When ever I do any kind of scearch for JET-16 for the most part I come up with nothing. It makes me think I have an older older machine.
I had been looking for one for a long time and kinda bought this one on a whim. I saw it said JET on it and knew it wouldnt be a bad machine so home it came.
Thanks Again

[tobyaxis]

You can probably get a Power Feed in Enco.

Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

[claas900]

You can probably get a Power Feed in Enco.

Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

Thanks. I have looked at them and ebay. At the moment I just cant swing that. If I could home make it reasonbaly I'd do that. I'm just useing this machine for hobby, so the less I put into it the more for my other hobby.
I noticed the table had lots of back lash about 30tho and I was able to shim the bearings and got them both down to about 6 to 8tho. So now it just looks like its all in the threads, witch is how I ended up looking for parts. Thanks Again

[claas900]

I do have another question,sorry If I sound like a knob. I've been looking at cullet sets. whats the differences between one that use the draw bar to hold them and ones that you already insert the holder and use the large spanner wrench to hold them? Dose the later of the two just let you use a larger cullet?

[Bubba]

the nuts on the lead screws are "split" and you can take up some of the lash with that. If you move the table all the way to its limit and look with a flash light, you should be able to see the adjuster and tighten it with a hex key. The Y axis is a buggerbear to get to unless you can get to it from underneath!

Also, I had a problem on the X axis with the nut attachment bolts coming a tad loose and the nut actually moving! However to tighten those bolts, you have to remove the table and saddle as I remember, because the bolt heads are directly over the lead screw for the Y axis. Again, you might be able to get to them from the bottom if you have access and not have to pull the table.

[claas900]

Awile ago I did have a look at the X axis "left to right?" And I'm 90% sure it was just a nut with no adjustment? I'll have to go look again.

[claas900]

I looked at the X axis nut again and best I can tell it doesn't have any adjuster on it. I did find a date on the motor,dated 1978 and it looks original to the Mill.

[arizonavideo]

I looked at the X axis nut again and best I can tell it doesn't have any adjuster on it. I did find a date on the motor,dated 1978 and it looks original to the Mill.

All of them have adjustments on the X and Y if you have a RF-31 or clone. There is a smaller unit out that looks like a RF-31 but is only about 300LB's, that may be what you have.

[claas900]

In the next few days ill break it down and have a better look. I've tried to add some pics.

[Bubba]

Ok, it warmed up enough for me to get my sorry butt out in the cold! So I went to the shop and found the original nut for the X axis. Attached are pictures labeled as top and end. Ignore the fitting on the side as this was added when we attempted to cnc the machine using the original lead screws (Bad Idea).
Ok, the end view shows the adjustment screw located at the 9 O'clock position as I remember, the Y axis is located at the 6 O'clock position. Maybe this will help you find what your looking for. Oh, by the way, on mine, the hex size is about 4mm.

[claas900]

Ok, it warmed up enough for me to get my sorry butt out in the cold! So I went to the shop and found the original nut for the X axis. Attached are pictures labeled as top and end. Ignore the fitting on the side as this was added when we attempted to cnc the machine using the original lead screws (Bad Idea).
Ok, the end view shows the adjustment screw located at the 9 O'clock position as I remember, the Y axis is located at the 6 O'clock position. Maybe this will help you find what your looking for. Oh, by the way, on mine, the hex size is about 4mm.

Thanks, I looked again and nope mine looks like yours only with out the ear with the allen.
I paid 800 for it with all the bits you see in the pic. Aside from this back lash the only other thing i don't like is the dials on the crank wheels don't have independent adjustment. I don't feel like i got a screaming deal but don't feel jeeped with the bits.

[arizonavideo]

That mill drill is not a clone of the RF-31. You have four pulleys for speed control and three lock down bolts. It looks like none of the parts would fit a RF-31.

All that means is they could have made the nuts any way they wished so you may not backlash adjustment.

The RF-31 nuts had poor backlash adjustment anyhow.

[Torsten]

Could you measure the Round Column Dia.
On the RF-31 this is 4.5 inches and I believe 3-5/8 inch on the smaller one.
Take a look at the original Backlash adjustment Nuts posted, even if yours dose not have this feature it is a rather easy modification to implement this.
Actually there are way better ways to do this if one looks a little harder at the isssue and is willing to put some time into it.
Not sure what you meant by "cullet", are you taking about collets?
Those are R8 collets I saw with your accesorys, this is the type of collet that will fit into your Spindle.
The Type you can use with a Spanner Wrench is a Collet holder, you would need the Holder that has a R8 taper on it. the Type of Collets you use with this depends on the Holder commonly used are ER-32 or ER-40.
There are many more varietys to choose from.
Good Luck

[claas900]

The Column Dia is dead on 4" and does have a R8 spindle.
This is my frist Mill. I've had a mini lathe for about 5 years. So this is a really nice upgrade for me from my drill press.
The reason I ask about Collets is I'd like to get a set and I was looking at use-enco I see they have a 25pc set with a size of 1/8 to 7/8 part # sn990-1342 and looks like it uses the draw bar to hold them in. I've seen some where it uses a spanner wrench to hold the Collet in on ebay 170427283769. I'd like to know if one is a better way or whats the big advantage one over the other?

[claas900]

Here's some more pics.

[claas900]

Let me try it again.

[Bubba]

yep, the ebay unit you reference is an R8-ER collet holder with a set of collets. Over the years, I have used both. The Plain R8 collets come in handy if you have long tooling (for instance a 1/2" drill) so you can reduce the overhang below the spindle. This especially true on a unit like the RF31 where you may have several tool changes and you don't want to raise or lower the head.
The dis-advantage of an R8 is it works really only with the size listed for each particular collet where as the ER will handle a range of sizes for each collet. If I remember correctly, my ER25's have a 1mm range for each one.

Hope this helps.


PS: both use a drawbar to hold the R8 section in! The standard thread is 7/16-20

[claas900]

Thanks for that info. I did notice I'd have more overhang below the spindle with the ER and thought about how that would affect what I'm doing with it. Thanks Again