[voltsandbolts]

Ok I’m kicking off plans to build my second router. My first was a jgro, witch is still in operation but I long for something that’s just a little more, you know a little bigger a little faster… (I have been told it’s a sickness) Will it ever end?

I’m not ready to give up the space it would take for a 4’x 4’ machine so I plan to build one that will handle 2’x 4’ maybe a bit more. I know there are some good designs out there like the Joe 2006 and the Lion Claw LC50 and I will be pulling together ideas from all over the Zone as well as the Net in general with a few of my own ideas mixed in (whether original or not) I am open to suggestions, not trying to reinvent the wheel here just build a sturdy machine.

The Pic below is the project I am currently working on.

RobWms

[denz]

This will be a thread not to miss.
Looking forward to the upcoming posts:banana:

[voltsandbolts]

Thanks denz, Me too!

I will try to keep you updated, but sometimes the rest of my life gets in the way of my fun. I will try to post a few more views of what I have come up with so far.

RobWms

[voltsandbolts]

Ok, a look at how I may do the steppers on the main axis. I am also thinking of a single motor in the middle with a belt drive out to the lead screws.


[IMG][/IMG]

[martkrui]

Is the base plate going to stay a single plate or are you going to add a torsion box ?
I love those V groove bearings but they are just so BLEEP expensive :P

[voltsandbolts]

This is just a concept at this point. Yes a T-Box or some other support (metal frame) will be needed to prevent sagging of the MDF. The best price I’ve seen on the V-bearings is about $10 each. I am working on a cheaper solution though…

Rob Wms.

[martkrui]

Now I'm curious

I've just ordered 40 bearings to create the linear guides like from buildyourcnc.com

[voltsandbolts]

40 of them $$$ Ouch! That site is very inspirational!

I am trying to keep my design easy to build with all of the more complex shapes sized to fit on my JGRO. I love the V-bearings but need a source in the $4 or less per unit to be practical. I bought 100 skate bearings when I built the JGRO so I’ll probably find a way to use them.

[martkrui]

40 V bearings :banana:? I WISH

they are just to expensive. I meant 40 * 608ZZ simple bearings.
This is the style I am going to build :

I've seen one alternative to V bearings by just bolting together 2 normal bearings. But the axial loads would be high and the created slot very shallow.

Therefore I've opted for the methode in the picture. More work while building but cheaper in materials. Also the possible issues finding a replacement bearing when a V bearing fails made me go for the simple bearings.

[voltsandbolts]

Hey they work and there fiscally responsible too!

[voltsandbolts]

Hey they work and there fiscally responsible too!

[voltsandbolts]

I see a lot of guys are using Vcarve Pro, it looks like an awesome package and I would love to have it… maybe some day. I have been using ACE converter (It makes notoriously inefficient code) and some hand coding but finally sprang for something that will let me design and cut without having to deal with the coding too much. I picked up a copy of Cut2D It looks like it will fill my needs for now, and besides the Boss (Wife) said that’s all I could afford.

RobWms

[voltsandbolts]

Been looking into a way to use some of the skate bearings I have amassed. This is one idea.

RobWms



Zoom...

[Jesse B]

That looks like it could work! You have both axes adjustable, so I don't see any reason why it wouldn't. 8 standard bearings will cost a lot less than 4 v-groove bearings

[PaulRowntree]

Adding tensioners into the sliding elements would make adjustments more secure (much like Ahren's metal carriages). For the vertical slots in the MDF, you could mount a cross dowel in the slot, then thread a rod up from the bottom of the gantry side, through the cross dowel, then on to press the 5/16" axle upwards against the rail material (CR steel plate?). Some kind of inside radius half-round to press against the axle would be best. For the vertical axes it is tougher to arrange and access the tightener, but it could probably be done.

It would be much easier to adjust the vertical axes rollers if the fixed roller was on the inside of the gantry, and the tension was applied to the roller riding on the outside face. Then the same cross-dowel trick would work.

Cheers!

[voltsandbolts]

Paul

These models are just conceptual at this point, There are a lot of things I have thought of and haven’t taken the time to detail in the model, and a lot of things I haven’t though of. I agree on the use of a tensioning device. I was going to just drill through the end of the slot and slip a nut into the slot. Cheap and easy.

Yes, it should run ok on a piece of CRS plate or on two opposing pieces of angle as shown in my first post.

Thanks for the comments, I am open to suggestions.

RobWms

[martkrui]

Wouldn't the design allow the gantry bottom to be pushed away from the base ? I think you would need to connect the sides of the gantry below the base to keep the sides tight to the base.

I'm going for this design :


This locks the gantry side and doesn't allow it to move up,down left or right.. just back and forward. This also prevents the gantry from skewing.

[voltsandbolts]

Dose this give you a little better idea of what I'm going for? I know I don't have everything lined up in this example ... but I will.

[martkrui]

Ahh.. okay. I misunderstood. Looks like it is going to work

[sports.racer]

What are you using for the rails?