[samsagaz]

hey guys, i readed a lot of threads but cant find an machine to drill PCBs, dont know if i need to follow an tutorial to create an for woodworking or metalworking

can someone tellme where to start?

i just want to create holes in PCBs.


thanks

[JRoque]

Que tal?. I started with the same question a few months back. I wanted to build a small machine, maybe 12"x12". I ended up building a much larger one that not only drills PCBs but also mills them. I do all of my prototypes inhouse now.

For this application, you'll need zero or close to zero backlash on the axes. This is important if you need accuracy and most do. Next, you will need a good router/spindle. I started with a Precise brand router and had good results. I switched to another popular wood router and the PBCs looked like they were being chewed instead of milled. My best results so far have been while using my own spindle. The important spec with the spindle, perhaps next to speed, is minimal runout.

Read the forums around here, go to eBay or similar available to you and start the buildup. Check out the 8020 ads here and build the frame out of that. Folks on this site are great and will be quick to lend you a hand and suggest ways out of trouble.

Regards,
JR

[samsagaz]

JRoque, if i build the jgro Wood Router it will work for mill the PCBs?

or you know any proyect that will fit?

[JRoque]

That will likely work. Unless you're in a hurry, you should spend some time reading this site and learning about your different options. Like I said, I was initially looking for the same thing you are but ended up with something very different which does a lot more work and it's a better fit for me.

JR

[samsagaz]

i dont understand very well the software stage, i can use any soft to drill it?

first i want to order the steppers from USA... here cant get an good one, here i need to pay likr 55 U$S fot an stepper motor with 200 steps 5V and 1.4A, i think that its not enough, i want more ampers and maybe more volts too, so i was thinking abt order it in USA. and maybe buy the Stepper Driver too.

what you will recomend me?

if u already spend a few days reading maybe can help me a bit my main problem is my damn english

i try to read everything but understand like mmm 30-40%

[samsagaz]

would be great if i can build an machine that cut wood and pcbs and drill it too.

metal stuff i think that will be more expensive.

have u any pic of your machine?

i want it a little bigger (to route wood too) like 30"x20"

but i was thinking that maybe the best choice is build 2 machines, one small for pcbs and another for the woodworking

[JRoque]

Well, if there's anything I can do for you in terms of translating, let me know. I'm not too good with English either but can do Spanish.

Here's my machine log. It hasn't been updated in a while but you can see how I started with a couple of 2x4 for a frame and a few clamps.

Shoot me a private message and we can get going. Unless anyone else can benefit from the foreign language discussion here? Let's see: alguien mas interesado en discutir el como montar una de estas maquinas para hacer circuitos impresos?

Cheers,
JR

[samsagaz]

you speak spanish?! i speak spanish!!! btw.. ill see your machine log

[samsagaz]

WOW!!! after read your post abt your machine im amazed!!! you machine is really good dude! i like it!!!

[JRoque]

Why thank you, sam. BTW, don't look too much at the voltage rating of your steppers. Yes, it matters but what you're looking for is reasonable torque or holding force. My steppers are rated at ~2.6v and they have around 180oz holding. With a .2" per turn screw they have enough power to cut just about anything I've thrown at it.

So..... no mires mucho el voltaje de los motores. Con >150oz de fuerza y tornillos de 5 a 1 es suficiente, especialmente para la aplicacion que intentas. Por otra parte, puedes construir la maquina que indicas arriba pero realmente es mas economico y hasta resulta mejor que utilices lo que tienes a mano. Por eso sugeria que leyeras este sitio para que tomaras tus propias decisiones. Fijate que rara vez hay dos maquinas identicas aqui. Empieza con la armazon de aluminio de la compañia 8020. Luego te busco mas links de otra piezas.

JR

[samsagaz]

the biggest torque that i found in my country are 6000 (g*cm)


ill still reading,

[campaX]

I'm really intrested in the same project (milling and drilling PCB)!.
Estoy realmente interesado en el mismo proyecto.
I bought some motors in eBay and, and i'm waiting to win an auction of some linear pillow blocks bearings.
I'm collecting parts enough to start my own design.
I already built a router like two years ago, but it had too much backlash, and the motors were too small. you can see it here.

I'm thinking in using a dremel as the router/spindle for PCB milling... what do you think? JRoque

Cuentame como va tu proyecto samsagaz? si quieres escribeme en español.

Mario.

[samsagaz]

CampaX todavia no lo empece, no logro conseguir motores como la gente en argentina, y no tengo el dinero para empezar el proyecto

[campaX]

No te preocupes yo tampoco tengo mucho dinero, yo compré 3 motores de 127oz-in por 21$ (7$ cada uno con envío incluido). y las demas partes las voy comprando poco a poco.
Lo que tienes es que tener paciencia, y esperar una buena oferta en eBay, o en mercadolibre.com o deremate.com.
O puedes conseguirte impresoras o fotocopiadoras viejas, que tengan motores grandes. (yo saque un motor bueno de una impresora apple que tenia guardada en el closet)

keep posting if you got news!

[JRoque]

Hello Mario, que tal?

A dremel-type router should be fine for PCB milling. Having little backlash is important, especially for high accuracy projects. Z accuracy is also important as is flatness of your table.

Typical copper thickness on PCBs are .0014" (.0356mm) for 1 ounce of copper and 0.0028" (.0711mm) for 2 once of copper. Cutting just below that has given me the best results. As you can see, Z needs to be dead on as well as keeping your table very flat. If your table can't be flat enough, you can build a jig to hold your PCB. The jig would have 4 screws to adjust flatness relative to the table.

For a frame, try aluminum instead of MDF. Its more expensive and shipping to your country might be an issue. But MDF soaks up humidity like mad unless you seal it. Check out the folks at 8020 and see how they can help you putting together a nice aluminum frame. There's also a forum where you can post your questions.

Later,
JR

[campaX]

Gracias Julio.
Otra pregunta...

I don't know what "jig" means.

Estos linear bearings funcionaran para hacer PCB milling? seran recomendables?
Tienen backlash?

I was thinking in purchase this anti-backlash nuts (1/2''-10) and some ACME screws in Enco
what do you think?

What else you recommend me?

PS: Sorry for writing in to languages, there are things that I can't describe in english

Mario.

[chuckknigh]

Jig -- a fixture designed to hold or align certain parts. They aid their users in the task of making repetitive parts. Often they are used to position such details as holes.

In this context, he was talking about a "mounting bracket" for PCB material which could be used to hold the material to your cutting table, and also ensure that it is at right angles to the cutter head.

Hope this helps!

-- Chuck Knight

[PEU]

Otro Argentino

well I can write fluently in both languages, so if I can help as a bridge just ask

Im also building a CNC router table from scratch, and at this moment like the others I'm on the gathering stage...

I have an estimate of around u$d 1000 for the whole setup, and to date I spent $327 on 8 THK SHS15 caged ball rails.

I need to buy steppers, parallel breakout box, controllers and ballscrews, etc.

I will post progress as it happens


Pablo
just in case: listas (at) peu (dot) net

[campaX]

Otro Argentino

no... soy Venezolano . que bueno que halla gente de latinoamerica en el foro. (group)

post some pictures of your progress.

Mario.

[PEU]

ok, otro latinoamericano entonces

Well, I still don't have anything to show since the THK Rails are still in Miami waiting to be shipped here. I will buy a xylotex kit and then when everything is here I will start assembling and taking pics.

I did an early design in solidworks, but since it was drawn I changed to linear rails, so its obsoleted. Attached is one pic of this design.

I want to start building now, but shipping from MIA takes time

I saw somewhere in the forum that there is a site with THK rails in solidworks ready files, if I found them, I will redraw the whole unit

:wave:

Pablo