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  1. #121
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    0
    N5 (File Name = CNC_TEST on Monday, October 04, 2010)
    N10 (Default Mill Post)
    N15 G91.1
    N20 G0 Z1.0000
    N25 M3
    N30 X19.3433 Y31.0613
    N35 Z0.0000
    N40 G42
    N45 G1 X14.3433 Y26.0613 Z0.0000 F60.00
    N50 G0 Z1.0000
    N55 X19.3433
    N60 Z0.000
    N65 G42
    N70 G1 X14.3433 Y31.0613 Z0.0000
    N75 G0 Z1.0000
    N80 X14.3433 Y26.0613
    N85 Z0.0000
    N90 G1 Y31.0613
    N95 X19.3433
    N100 Y26.0613
    N105 G40
    N110 X14.3433
    N115 G0 Z1.0000
    N120 X20.3789 Y28.5613
    N125 Z0.0000
    N130 G2 Z0.0000 I-3.5355 J0.0000
    N135 G0 Z1.0000
    N140 M5
    N145 M30

    my code! Still cant figure out if it is my offset causing the rounded corner or what is it backlash or somtihing else. Thank You for Your code it was great to have a second set of eyes on this!!!. Ill upload an image of my pen plot tomarrow. Im gona crash for the night. Im going to have great dreams knowing it is working just need to dial it in and ill be cutting this weekend. My first peice is going to be a new router holder for my big 2/14 hp craftsman. Ill post up the code so you can look at it. Im a little scarred i will not get the passes correct. Thanks agian

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    0

    Backlash??

    im not sure what is going on but i have posted this vid to show the rounded corners on plot. what is causing the 90Degree coner to be ronded.

    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWFNii4AvV4"]YouTube[/nomedia]

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    37
    bro,
    can u unprivate the video.

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    0
    No longer private

    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWFNii4AvV4"]YouTube - Backash[/nomedia]

    It seems like my motors dont stop spinning when it goes to the next move kinda like there is still some inertia? Not sure if this makes any sense. it seems realy bad on the right side of the Y movments

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Are you machining online or outside of profile?

    If outside of profile in the picture the yellow is the tool, the green is the tool path and the magenta is the stock corner, if you machine on the outside the tool has to make a radius to keep the inside corner edge.

    If you are machining online check your constant velocity mode and IJ made in mach3.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Capture.JPG  
    Thanks,
    Joe

    www.joescnc.com
    joecnc2006 at yahoo

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by joecnc2006 View Post
    Are you machining online or outside of profile?

    If outside of profile in the picture the yellow is the tool, the green is the tool path and the magenta is the stock corner, if you machine on the outside the tool has to make a radius to keep the inside corner edge.

    If you are machining online check your constant velocity mode and IJ made in mach3.
    I found the constant velocity settings. If you set your tool diamiter to 0.00 the you are online or am i making another newbee mistake.

    [edit]

    Joe you on the money as always. the cv setting realy was causing the problem. once i turned it off all i have perfect corners. Tool diam killed me all day. I now know why my tool diam is set at 0.00. I do not have a full copy of lazycam pro just the demo so i cant set my tool path correctly for the tool. I guess ill need to buy a cam program since Lazycam is still beta i may as well spend a little more for somthinng else. Is there a free one out there for 2d cuts?

    [edit 2]

    In mach 3 you can set you tool diam in the lower center of the run program screen. Does this set the actual diam for the g code? what does it actualy do? I also played with the multi pass today and it seemed to work well but my initial cut does not plunge but slowly reaches it cut depth over an entire move it does this for each pass. Thats not a normal thing is it? ill post a screen later tonight so you will be able to see the strange cut.

    [edit 3 ]
    I found that the strange cut with the swoop was because my plunge speed was at 0.00 . However i am confused because i did this all in mach 3. i figured out how to do this in lazycam and its all better. Strange!

    [edit 4]
    No i was wrong it is not better. i am noticing in lazycam when i have a flat object no depth to cut that at the first point it should go to 0.00 to the surface it actualy gradualy does it. Why is this. I know its somthing simpile. Can someone post a tutorial on how this is done correct. I load my DXF, Reset orgin Clean it up and set rappids to 1.0 and i should be good. but my first second rapid the one that goes down does not go the full distance? ok take a look at the image and let me know.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails screen1.jpg  

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    37
    Nego_o,

    How easy is it for a novice to learn/work with Mach3?




    My Joes2006 has just arrived and I have my computer and just paid for myMach3.

    3 axis kit on Nov19 and we should be in business.

    Thank You

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    0
    It took me a week max to understand mach 3. I just had to play around with it. Dont play around with it with a cutting bit though. i just did movments, pen tests and now im good to go. I wish lazy cam worked better so i moved to autocad 3 G code. and it works as it should. It takes time lots of it. 9 months build and test time for me. I still want to start over and do things diffrent. Glue evrything, any thing mdf glue it. Be respectful on the forms and there will always be someone there to help. Let me know what i can do to help and i will.

  9. #129
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    122
    Sheetcam's free trial will allow you to output 150 lines of code.

    For small stuff, it's often enough.

    For me it was worth the $200 - it works really well and the developer does a good job of support.

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    0
    ran the machine for the first time with everything on it. first cut was tonight and it went well. I need to do the T slot table. I found that i was not strong enough to keep my project from moving. I ended up using Cut2d demo to see how it all works out and well it works out great! i think i need a few end mills now and some t slot track and ill be done. I know your never done but at least its usable.

    Is there a collets system for routers that will hold the small 2mm or 3mm end mills. Or are there end mills that have 1/4 shanks but are 2mm cutting heads?

    EDIT some new pics of my first two real cuts. the balsa looks bad for many reasons. Sorry for the bad web cam shots. My camera is out of batteries of all things.
    1-Forgot to zero (tool crash bad!)
    2-I held the balsa down rather than finding a better secure method.

    The foam turned out great i have nor complaints.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Picture 9.jpg   Picture 10.jpg   Picture 11.jpg   Picture 12.jpg  


  11. #131
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    0
    So ive been looking for End Mills and i find that none realy fit my router for what i want to do. I plan on doing a lot of Ribs For Model Airplanes. 1/4 is just to big for what i want. so ive looked and cant seem to find endmills that are about 1/8". So what i was wondering if this would work.

    [ame=http://www.amazon.com/85-101-Spiral-Router-Cutter-Height/dp/B000W3K2HG]Amazon.com: 85-101, 1/4" Shank Upcut Spiral Router Bit, 1/8" Cutter Diam., 1/2" Cutter Height: Home Improvement[/ame]

    I am looking for 1/4" shank or 1/2" shank. I need to cut at about an 1/8th". I cut foam balsa and plywood / carbon plate (not realy thick maybee 2/32 thick.

  12. #132
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    290
    I would look for downward spiral for that thin of material will help hold in place.

    Tooling


    good info and links to tool suppliers


    Kent

  13. #133
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    177

  14. #134
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    0
    Thank you.

  15. #135
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    0

    HOT HOT HOT

    Im worried. My machine is cutting fin. I love it. but after 7 min of cuttin i notice that the G540 is hot relly hot, and the motors are so hot i cant touch them i meen blazing!!! the motor on my Z axis bearly does anything and it was just as hot is this normal?

  16. #136
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    435
    Quote Originally Posted by nego_0 View Post
    Im worried. My machine is cutting fin. I love it. but after 7 min of cuttin i notice that the G540 is hot relly hot, and the motors are so hot i cant touch them i meen blazing!!! the motor on my Z axis bearly does anything and it was just as hot is this normal?
    I see you bought the kit from CNCRouterparts. The problem is that the resistor is in the wrong location. It is supposed to be on the end of the cable attached to the Gecko G540, not the motor end.

    See this thread: Important Gecko 540 info - news to me!! LINK

  17. #137
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    114
    Quote Originally Posted by nego_0 View Post
    So ive been looking for End Mills and i find that none realy fit my router for what i want to do. I plan on doing a lot of Ribs For Model Airplanes. 1/4 is just to big for what i want. so ive looked and cant seem to find endmills that are about 1/8". So what i was wondering if this would work.

    Amazon.com: 85-101, 1/4" Shank Upcut Spiral Router Bit, 1/8" Cutter Diam., 1/2" Cutter Height: Home Improvement

    I am looking for 1/4" shank or 1/2" shank. I need to cut at about an 1/8th". I cut foam balsa and plywood / carbon plate (not realy thick maybee 2/32 thick.
    I use 1/8" shank Dremel bits in my router for small stuff. I'll have to look up where I got it from but I bought a 1/8" ID 1/4" OD split sleeve adapter. The smallest 1/4" shank tool that I use is an 1/8" two flute straight bit from Lowes.

    Fatboy

  18. #138
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by CNC Lurker View Post
    I see you bought the kit from CNCRouterparts. The problem is that the resistor is in the wrong location. It is supposed to be on the end of the cable attached to the Gecko G540, not the motor end.

    See this thread: Important Gecko 540 info - news to me!! LINK
    Never fails does it. So what should i do then call CNCrouterparts or do i have to cut out the resistor and place it on the gecko side. It blows my mind to that placing that resistor cools the motor? I dont want to kill my motors i just got it up and running. Is there a dongle premaid for this?

    I ran 400 Lines of code tonight took about 33 min. My motors were around 150F Jesus thats hot? I used a meat thermometer (anolog) i ruber banded it to the motor to cover as much surface of the long needle as possibe and it was at 150 when all said and done. i one of the motors was closer to 160f. this seems hotter than i would expect?

  19. #139
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    435
    Quote Originally Posted by nego_0 View Post
    Never fails does it. So what should i do then call CNCrouterparts or do i have to cut out the resistor and place it on the gecko side. It blows my mind to that placing that resistor cools the motor? I dont want to kill my motors i just got it up and running. Is there a dongle premaid for this?

    I ran 400 Lines of code tonight took about 33 min. My motors were around 150F Jesus thats hot? I used a meat thermometer (anolog) i ruber banded it to the motor to cover as much surface of the long needle as possibe and it was at 150 when all said and done. i one of the motors was closer to 160f. this seems hotter than i would expect?
    Read that thread; a solution is to purchase the EZ-G540.

    In another thread, I don't remember which one, it was posted that CNCRouterparts would have a fix at the end of February. It consisted of a short cable that had the resistors and it attaches between the long motor cables and the Gecko.

  20. #140
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by CNC Lurker View Post
    Read that thread; a solution is to purchase the EZ-G540.

    In another thread, I don't remember which one, it was posted that CNCRouterparts would have a fix at the end of February. It consisted of a short cable that had the resistors and it attaches between the long motor cables and the Gecko.
    CNCrouterparts wrote this to me today!
    Samuel,

    We have adapters coming in at the end of the month that move the resistor to the drive side. I will ship you 4 of them once they arrive. This should fix the heat issue you have with your motors.

    Best regards,

    Ahren
    CNCRouterParts

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