[Schuimpge]

1. Remove the Arduino-ground from the earth-point.
- test the machine to ensure it operates normally.

Tested it, removed the ground..
Result: Machine goes into a continues error loop. No stopping it.
Reconnected the ground and straight away everything back to normal.

2. Remove the Caps from the limit-switches.
- test the machine and if removal gives problems, add smaller caps.

Tested removal after homing sequence finished.
Result: Machine stays into "Hard Limit Switch triggered". No stopping it.
Replaced the caps while machine still in the same position: Straight away I can home the machine as if nothing ever happened.

Changed the caps to 0.1uF.. Works perfect, so that's an improvement, for now, the caps seem to help.
(As such, not a placebo, but it is solving another problem which I've not found yet.)

I do realize that this could also be a result of USB Power, so that will be tested also..
- Tested.. Removing the caps give the same Hard-Limit problem even with an external power-source.

3. Testing with external 2A 12v Power Supply on the barrel-bus.
- Machine runs normal at first test.
- After removing ground connection, it goes same hair-wire again.
- Plug the ground back in and everything normal.

Observations..(not really conclusions, its still ongoing checking and trying other ways later on..) so far:
No notable difference between external power supply and USB power supply.
Caps are necessary but can be greatly reduced.
It looks as if the smaller caps result in 'sharper' movement and I hear the clicks of the switches more than with 1uF caps after hitting them the first time. Might be that the switches and the electronics are more/faster reacting to the switch activation.. hard to explain..
Ground is absolutely necessary, machine simply won't work without. Need to further investigate that.

Will order the USB Isolator as a safety measure, then power the arduino from external source.
Then wait for the opts-coupler IC's to arrive and start testing that to see if I can remove the capacitors..


Cheers,
Luc

[Schuimpge]

Lets not forget the original problem that started this discussion: The Z-Axis Motor!

Brought up the Amps in steps and every step no problem at all.
Now back to normal, motor running fine. Strange. Wondering where that came from but it's working normal again.
Quite sure that it's a cable that I swapped after taking it off in combination with slightly altered settings after reloading GRBL.
To be shelved as an anomaly for now.

Cheers,
Luc

[A_Camera]

Good luck. Sorry, I just tried to give you the engineers perspective. I think you draw conclusions too fast without really knowing what is happening and why.

[Schuimpge]

Good luck. Sorry, I just tried to give you the engineers perspective. I think you draw conclusions too fast without really knowing what is happening and why.

Hello A_Camera, sure appreciate the comments, and you are right that I don't have the knowledge that you and many others here have. Also I'm not drawing any conclusions yet, don't get me wrong on the report just now. Its only observations.
I'm trying all I can to get these issues solved as advised by you. So I'm hoping that the opto-isolater for the limit switches changes things as that's the one going tilt with changes I made.
So lets see how that will go first. If that solves things, then the 3 issues mentioned and tested just now can all be changed to what it should be.

Will keep updating..

Cheers,
Luc

[Schuimpge]

Ordered the USB "Isolator". So the arduino will eventually be completely isolated electrically except for the power-supply.
Driver inputs are all opto-isolated, limit-switches will be done once the components arrive, and the USB-Cable to the laptop will have the same also.

Cheers,
Luc

[Black Forest]

Schuimpge there is something I don't understand in your logic. This is not meant as a criticism only a question. You say you are new to CNC so with all there is to learn why would you not go with a "real" controller board instead of the Arduino and all the fiddling around. I read what you wrote about the cost of the Arduino and the drives but man o man I think your time must be worth something! With everything there is to learn to get up to speed and actually produce parts on your machine it would seem to me the investment in "real" equipment would shorten the learning curve significantly and ultimately be less expensive. Too many unknowns with your current setup to learn and write. Me I would think it is better to go with a known solution and once it works then venture of into the unknown.

So tell me what is wrong with my logic. Really it is just a question.

[Schuimpge]

Schuimpge there is something I don't understand in your logic. This is not meant as a criticism only a question. You say you are new to CNC so with all there is to learn why would you not go with a "real" controller board instead of the Arduino and all the fiddling around. I read what you wrote about the cost of the Arduino and the drives but man o man I think your time must be worth something! With everything there is to learn to get up to speed and actually produce parts on your machine it would seem to me the investment in "real" equipment would shorten the learning curve significantly and ultimately be less expensive. Too many unknowns with your current setup to learn and write. Me I would think it is better to go with a known solution and once it works then venture of into the unknown.

So tell me what is wrong with my logic. Really it is just a question.

Hello Black Forrest, thanks for joining in. Interesting question. Let me try to explain a bit more. I like making things, tinkering with stuff, etc. With all the small stuff I have here at home, (and I collect lots of stuff), I could really keep enjoying myself for the next 15 years I guess. So right now, where my life gets into a bit more steady water, I have the space and availability to build my own machines. So far, it has only been woodworking, and that still gives me a lot of joy. Built my own table-saw, jig-saw, slowly some more furniture, etc.
My workshop is where I'm relaxing, most of the time its very clean and organized, and I simply enjoy looking at all the tools and I'm sure that most my CNC projects for time to come will be woodworking projects..

The main thing is, that I enjoy building the tool, enjoy the challenge, spend hours and hours tinkering to get it right. To me there's no fun in buying the perfect tool and start making something...It's looking at something I like to make, say a table, a chair, something to hang at the wall, and then look at the tools I need or want for that. Then start building the tool that suits the job...So for the CNC-router, I had an arduino already, I had a goal of keeping the cost down and I had access to a large amount of aluminum... So after reading a bit more on the Arduino and CNC, I thought: Yes.. it can be done and that really got me started to actually build the machine and knowing that if I'd blow that board to bits and pieces, I'd have lost 20 USD or so and learned a lot in the process. (Actually, now it's more like 1,000 USD, but its a working machine..lol) In part, the cost went up because I did not want to go the route of home-made bearings, I wanted a reasonable precise and strong machine.

It's hobby, and as long as I can foresee, it will remain a hobby that gives me fun.
My time is sure worth something.. and solving any problem with the CNC-machine is worth it as I feel great to have accomplished something at the end of the day..
I'm certainly not stubborn to know it all but definitely stubborn enough to get it done..lol..and I really appreciate comments from people like A_Camera and Roger, because I'm learning something and improving the machine I'm building which (again) is what I tremendously enjoy..
In the process, I also know my machine better and better and with mistakes and all, I feel more confident using it and making things.
Learning to make things on the machine is an art by itself which I'm now only getting to.

Had I needed that machine to make actual money for my living, I'd sure thrown it out the window 2 months ago I guess. But that's not why I built the machine..
The future might have me build more machines though, as some people here have been looking at it, so who knows.. what I learn here might get me somewhere unexpected..

Lots of rambling, never been an organized person..lol

But hope it makes sense, as it's pretty close to what I wanted to say when I first read your message about 2 hours ago.

Cheers,
Luc

[Schuimpge]

I'd like to add that from what I read on the forums here, I have the impression that 'proven and real' equipment gives equally as much 'problems' with limit switches and false triggers..I wouldn't even call it problems what I have as my machine works perfectly well right now. I'm only trying to get the (currently working) electronics done properly based on A_Camera's recommendations and that takes quiet some extra time..
Cheers,
Luc

[Black Forest]

I'd like to add that from what I read on the forums here, I have the impression that 'proven and real' equipment gives equally as much 'problems' with limit switches and false triggers..I wouldn't even call it problems what I have as my machine works perfectly well right now. I'm only trying to get the (currently working) electronics done properly based on A_Camera's recommendations and that takes quiet some extra time..
Cheers,
Luc

You are definitely preaching to the choir on building things when it might be a whole lot easier and cheaper to buy it or use proven technology as you say.
Just so you believe me I will tell you about a machine I built. I have sheep on my farm here in Germany. Not a lot any more. Now mostly enough to to train my Border Collies. Sheep have to be sheared every year. My sheep are quite difficult and the local professional shearers don't want to do it with my particular race of sheep. So I have to do it myself. The problem is I am no spring chick and my knees are bad as well as my back. So I decided I would invent/build a machine to take as much of the work out of shearing a sheep as possible. Typically you grab the sheep from a pen, drag it to the shearing board, flip it on its ass and tuck it between your knees and have at it. You are bent over and crouching the whole time. After not many sheep I am literally crippled and can't walk. So I built a machine. Now this machine started out very crude with mostly stuff I had laying around but being the stubborn guy I am I never stopped trying to get it "just right"! But it works and it works well. I received a lot of ridicule from a lot of people near and far. Especially the fellows from New Zealand and Australia. They told me I would be laughed right out of the country if I told the locals I was building a "machine" to help me shear sheep. These same fellows are now my biggest cheerleaders after they saw how determined I was to be successful. The machine now utilizes two PLC's and lots and lots of hydraulics that are controlled by the PLC's . It is mounted on a trailer so I can transport it to where ever I want to shear my sheep. I never entered into the project thinking to commercialize it as a product. It was strictly for my own use and "fun" to figure it out. My wife thinks I am crazy to have invested so much time and money but she leaves me alone mostly as she knows how stubborn I am.

So if you want to waste two minutes of your life on something you probably have no interest in watch the video in the link.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TbfXMRMtXo

Sorry for rambling on.

[A_Camera]

Schuimpge there is something I don't understand in your logic. This is not meant as a criticism only a question. You say you are new to CNC so with all there is to learn why would you not go with a "real" controller board instead of the Arduino and all the fiddling around. I read what you wrote about the cost of the Arduino and the drives but man o man I think your time must be worth something! With everything there is to learn to get up to speed and actually produce parts on your machine it would seem to me the investment in "real" equipment would shorten the learning curve significantly and ultimately be less expensive. Too many unknowns with your current setup to learn and write. Me I would think it is better to go with a known solution and once it works then venture of into the unknown.

So tell me what is wrong with my logic. Really it is just a question.

That was what I also tried to tell him in another post. Not very logical, but if he prefers it this way, well... who am I to say he is wrong? I just know that even though I have the knowledge to design create my own drivers I prefer buying those ready made because it saves me a LOT of time and trouble as well.

[A_Camera]

I'd like to add that from what I read on the forums here, I have the impression that 'proven and real' equipment gives equally as much 'problems' with limit switches and false triggers..I wouldn't even call it problems what I have as my machine works perfectly well right now. I'm only trying to get the (currently working) electronics done properly based on A_Camera's recommendations and that takes quiet some extra time..
Cheers,
Luc

...but if you'd followed my recommendation you'd have abandoned this Arduino project a long time ago, in fact, wouldn't even have started with it. Other than that, I'd NEVER ever would build anything on a bread board for use, those are only for experiments on a desk. Also, I have DEFINITELY never said that limit switches cause problems. Those cause problems only when something is connected wrongly or there is something else seriously wrong with the design. I have never used any Arduino, and for this purpose I'd never use it, I have no idea how many people have issues with those, but you may be right that quite a few have similar issues to yours, but that's different. If you'd buy REAL drivers, for example the DQ542MA I am using, and REAL motion controllers, like the UC300ETH or something similar, you'd be up and running at incredibly high speed without issues. That is... assuming your wiring and connections are otherwise right.

I have no idea how you can have that impression about limit switch issues. It is a VERY uncommon issue. But yes, there are quite a few people with VERY limited electronic knowledge who are trying to follow advices given by people with equally limited electronic knowledge they find on the internet, which are many times totally wrong, like your capacitor on a mechanical switch connected to your inputs. Yes, it is placebo, and yes, something is probably wrong with your design, but since you always say no, and make new trials and draw new wrong conclusions, I have given up. Limit switches are the easiest thing in the world to connect, so it beats me why those can cause problems for some people, and my only guess is that because they keep on following the wrong advices and because they go for solutions which are doomed to fail.

So, if you want to follow my advice you stop here, order 3 X DQ542MA + a cheap BOB and a UC100, UC300USB or UC300ETH or something similar and start from there and while you wait for the delivery spend some time with your wife. I'd also abandon any dreams of using a Mac for a cnc and would buy a cheap PC instead. It would save you loads of time and would get you started in no time. Like I said before, it's a nice machine you have built but you got stuck on the electronics and you will stand still a long time and will probably never be happy with it even if you one day get it working, you will just spend more money and time on it until you realize that it will never be good enough.

[pirate323i]

So if you want to waste two minutes of your life on something you probably have no interest in watch the video in the link.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TbfXMRMtXo

Wow! Black Forest, I have only watched shearing once (helped out removing the dirty edges for wool grading on 300 sheep) and man what a tough job for the shearer. Your machine is fantastic!

"Sorry to have side tracked the thread"
I totally understand the desire to make it work and that the journey is half the fun. But you have such a great, well built machine, it seems a shame that the one "downside" is the control AND it is giving you issues...
Anyway, good luck on your journey! Cant wait to see what you produce with it! (That key hanger isnt going to make itself!) 😉

[RCaffin]

I am afraid I am going to have to disagree with what A_Camera has written about several things.

* Connection to a Start ground: essential to cut noise problems - as Schuimpge has determined experimentally. Even power supply mfrs will tell you to earth their supplies, not to mention every CNC kit vendor.

* Use of Opto-isolators even with a common star ground - they prevent the coupling of very high frequency RF noise which can be a killer. The really high frequency stuff does not behave like audio, and VFDs can generate a lot of it.

* Arduino vs commercial - hardly the point. If Schuimpge wants to go the Arduino route, that is HIS choice. Others have done that and have working systems. The underlying idea is why we now have Mach3 and UCCNC and LinuxCNC rather than all still having to use Fanuc and Siemans etc very expensive but obsolete controllers.

* Capacitor filtering on switches - it works just fine because it filters the pull-up side of things and eliminates switch bounce. It comes into action the instant the switch opens, not while the switch is closed. Just because the switch shorts out the cap when it is closed does NOT mean it cannot function as an RC filter with the pull-up resistor the rest of the time. After all, it is the open state of the switch rather than the closed state which matters. And a capacitor is still a capacitor even if it starts with zero volts across it.

Cheers
Roger (BSc Hon, MSc, PhD, 50 years experience designing electronic systems (including robotics) and supervising graduate electronics engineers)

[Schuimpge]

You are definitely preaching to the choir on building things when it might be a whole lot easier and cheaper to buy it or use proven technology as you say.
Just so you believe me I will tell you about a machine I built. I have sheep on my farm here in Germany. Not a lot any more. Now mostly enough to to train my Border Collies. Sheep have to be sheared every year. My sheep are quite difficult and the local professional shearers don't want to do it with my particular race of sheep. So I have to do it myself. The problem is I am no spring chick and my knees are bad as well as my back. So I decided I would invent/build a machine to take as much of the work out of shearing a sheep as possible. Typically you grab the sheep from a pen, drag it to the shearing board, flip it on its ass and tuck it between your knees and have at it. You are bent over and crouching the whole time. After not many sheep I am literally crippled and can't walk. So I built a machine. Now this machine started out very crude with mostly stuff I had laying around but being the stubborn guy I am I never stopped trying to get it "just right"! But it works and it works well. I received a lot of ridicule from a lot of people near and far. Especially the fellows from New Zealand and Australia. They told me I would be laughed right out of the country if I told the locals I was building a "machine" to help me shear sheep. These same fellows are now my biggest cheerleaders after they saw how determined I was to be successful. The machine now utilizes two PLC's and lots and lots of hydraulics that are controlled by the PLC's . It is mounted on a trailer so I can transport it to where ever I want to shear my sheep. I never entered into the project thinking to commercialize it as a product. It was strictly for my own use and "fun" to figure it out. My wife thinks I am crazy to have invested so much time and money but she leaves me alone mostly as she knows how stubborn I am.

So if you want to waste two minutes of your life on something you probably have no interest in watch the video in the link.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TbfXMRMtXo

Sorry for rambling on.

Amazing machine, well done video as well. Thanks for shearing..(pun intended)

[Schuimpge]

...but if you'd followed my recommendation you'd have abandoned this Arduino project a long time ago, in fact, wouldn't even have started with it. Other than that, I'd NEVER ever would build anything on a bread board for use, those are only for experiments on a desk.

I've explained why I used that breadboard, but will do that once more. The reason is simple: I could have spend many hours soldering and desoldering components or use the breadboard and change things on the fly and find the right configuration. As an example, the capacitors, I only had 1uF available, and that worked for the time being. Ordered smaller ones and by just taking the old ones off, plugging in the new ones, I found the best value for it..

Also, I have DEFINITELY never said that limit switches cause problems. Those cause problems only when something is connected wrongly or there is something else seriously wrong with the design.

Similar, I have never ever said that limit switches cause problems. It's the limit-switch 'system' that gave false alarms if I connected them in certain ways. That took me a few times of trial and error, and as is stands, those limit switches (the system as a whole), have never given me problems anymore.

I have never used any Arduino, and for this purpose I'd never use it, I have no idea how many people have issues with those, but you may be right that quite a few have similar issues to yours, but that's different. If you'd buy REAL drivers, for example the DQ542MA I am using, and REAL motion controllers, like the UC300ETH or something similar, you'd be up and running at incredibly high speed without issues. That is... assuming your wiring and connections are otherwise right.

This feels to me like its going into a direction where I'm supposed to just buy what you advise as being real and professional and all that...otherwise it's not worth your time. Given that there's thousands of CNC-machines out there that are driven by Arduino based electronics that are pushing out endless amounts of products, I don't think I'm on a wrong path, I am on a different path. I could argue about your opinion on the validity of Arduino driven CNC-machines, since you've never tried or looked at one. My choice for using the Arduino was based on what I had available and on a lot of reading to know if it really is able to drive a CNC-machine properly. I came to the conclusion that it was. And now that I have a working machine, I'm very sure that it is a proper solution with some limitations, but a good solution nevertheless.

And once again.. don't know how many times I have say that: I don't have electronic problems. Not with the switches, not with the overall electronics of the machine, none...This discussion started the last few days because the Z-axis motor behaved strange! As (I think Roger) said, it could have been a simple loose wire at the motor connection. (And yes, it could have been a loose wire at the breadboard, which will be addressed by replacing that in the coming days/weeks with a more permanent solution.)

All that I have been doing after that first problem is trying to follow your recommendations on proper electronics wiring, as I thought that could never hurt... That's what I've tried, tested and reported back to you and everyone reading this and that's where I've suggested ways for follow up testing to find the real problem, but there's no reply from you other than "rip it out and use REAL stuff". Now where do I go wrong, I'm giving my findings and suggestions on what I think is happening. So why do I get put up as stubborn, using toy electronic parts and not listening to the real 'professionals' and all that? I am supposed to just rip out everything and order all new stuff because you think those are REAL and GOOD and you use them when I'm not having any issues?

Mind you, at 24v currently, I'm very happy with the 2500mm/minute on the X, 1700mm/minute on the Y and 1000mm/minute on the Z without ever skipping a step...More than fast enough for me to get a grip on the machine. Might not be a Formula 1 car now, but with that "pesky / lousy" arduino and a 'scrap' 24v Meanwell power supply I'm doing just fine and guess what? I paid USD 50.00 for that part of the electronics. Your REAL driver DQ542MA lists at USD 115.00.. In a couple of months I might swap to higher voltage, say 36 or 48v and I might maybe upgrade my Drivers to better ones. Man, that's going to be fun, seeing that machine running.. but that's at a time where I'm fully confident with using the machine. (I didn't get my driving lessons in a F1-car either..) But it also might never happen and I'll keep perfectly happy with what I have...

I have no idea how you can have that impression about limit switch issues. It is a VERY uncommon issue. But yes, there are quite a few people with VERY limited electronic knowledge who are trying to follow advices given by people with equally limited electronic knowledge they find on the internet, which are many times totally wrong, like your capacitor on a mechanical switch connected to your inputs. Yes, it is placebo, and yes, something is probably wrong with your design, but since you always say no, and make new trials and draw new wrong conclusions, I have given up. Limit switches are the easiest thing in the world to connect, so it beats me why those can cause problems for some people, and my only guess is that because they keep on following the wrong advices and because they go for solutions which are doomed to fail.

You've given your comments, which I then took the time to test and report back. I've even made the effort to order parts to test and try different ways to meet the goals that you've set as being correct wiring practices. Yet, the only thing you do after the first tests where done by me is throwing in the towel and say that I have to rip out everything. You're not doing anyone on the forum a service with that. Here you have an interesting test-case (not a problem-case) where clearly there's something that goes against your knowledge (the caps on the limits for example) and yet you just cut it off and say that it is not right instead of having a proper discussion going on how that is possible..
For me, it is really interesting when for example both you and Roger discuss this. I'm more than willing to test and report back on my machine what works and what not, and the two of you sharing experience and knowledge trying to understand the physics behind it.
That's what a forum is for and that's what makes me enjoy posting here..

So, if you want to follow my advice you stop here, order 3 X DQ542MA + a cheap BOB and a UC100, UC300USB or UC300ETH or something similar and start from there and while you wait for the delivery spend some time with your wife. I'd also abandon any dreams of using a Mac for a cnc and would buy a cheap PC instead. It would save you loads of time and would get you started in no time. Like I said before, it's a nice machine you have built but you got stuck on the electronics and you will stand still a long time and will probably never be happy with it even if you one day get it working, you will just spend more money and time on it until you realize that it will never be good enough.

An upgrade in electronics will not happen for the time being for reasons given already. I'm using the MacBook, simply because the Arduino is multi platform and doesn't care about windows or linux or mac. I do have 1 very old and one fairly new PC (again both 'scrap'). The old one might be a future candidate as it has a Parallel port, but that's future talk right now.


So...
Once again, I know the above reply is fairly aggressive.
With all due respect, I feel like this conversation is totally going the wrong path and becomes more of a platform argument which is not related to the original post on the Z-axis motor from where this discussion started.
I'm trying suggestions that members like A_Camera give me, for which I am very grateful. period.
There's limitations I have in understanding certain electrical issues, so yes, I could sometimes ask 'strange or silly' questions and my wiring might not follow correct standards, but I do know I am taking advise seriously and try suggestions from members and report back what I found so others might learn from it as well.
If anyone feels that Arduino is not valid as a platform, then I respect that feeling and I will not argue with it. It's a choice, and not all choices work for everyone.

Kind regards,
Luc

[Schuimpge]

Wow! Black Forest, I have only watched shearing once (helped out removing the dirty edges for wool grading on 300 sheep) and man what a tough job for the shearer. Your machine is fantastic!

"Sorry to have side tracked the thread"
I totally understand the desire to make it work and that the journey is half the fun. But you have such a great, well built machine, it seems a shame that the one "downside" is the control AND it is giving you issues...
Anyway, good luck on your journey! Cant wait to see what you produce with it! (That key hanger isnt going to make itself!) ��

hello Pirate..thanks for the comment, below the first tests with the key-hanger board.
It's done with a 2mm straight bit as that's all I have available that small. Waiting for different bits.
The wood is an old cutting board, bamboo..
Pictures are all random selected from the web, just imported into easel and sized.
Added the text and a border.. 30 minutes preparation work, machine took about 30-45 minutes at 750mm/minute or so.
Might be able to go faster, but don't want to push it too far yet.

The picture from this morning, gave it a quick sanding around the filled-in parts to remove paint. Needs some more attention.



White dowels will be drilled in (slightly angled up) in the open spaces between the routed key-pictures.

Cheers,
Luc

[Schuimpge]

I am afraid I am going to have to disagree with what A_Camera has written about several things.

* Connection to a Start ground: essential to cut noise problems - as Schuimpge has determined experimentally. Even power supply mfrs will tell you to earth their supplies, not to mention every CNC kit vendor.

* Use of Opto-isolators even with a common star ground - they prevent the coupling of very high frequency RF noise which can be a killer. The really high frequency stuff does not behave like audio, and VFDs can generate a lot of it.

* Arduino vs commercial - hardly the point. If Schuimpge wants to go the Arduino route, that is HIS choice. Others have done that and have working systems. The underlying idea is why we now have Mach3 and UCCNC and LinuxCNC rather than all still having to use Fanuc and Siemans etc very expensive but obsolete controllers.

* Capacitor filtering on switches - it works just fine because it filters the pull-up side of things and eliminates switch bounce. It comes into action the instant the switch opens, not while the switch is closed. Just because the switch shorts out the cap when it is closed does NOT mean it cannot function as an RC filter with the pull-up resistor the rest of the time. After all, it is the open state of the switch rather than the closed state which matters. And a capacitor is still a capacitor even if it starts with zero volts across it.

Cheers
Roger (BSc Hon, MSc, PhD, 50 years experience designing electronic systems (including robotics) and supervising graduate electronics engineers)

Thanks for your support Roger, felt, still feeling, quite upset with how this conversation is going south..

Cheers,
Luc

[pirate323i]

Fantastic! Looking great! Keep up the good work and the updates to the thread!

[Schuimpge]

Will sure do that Pirate..
Cheers,
Luc

[Black Forest]

I've explained why I used that breadboard, but will do that once more. The reason is simple: I could have spend many hours soldering and desoldering components or use the breadboard and change things on the fly and find the right configuration. As an example, the capacitors, I only had 1uF available, and that worked for the time being. Ordered smaller ones and by just taking the old ones off, plugging in the new ones, I found the best value for it..




Similar, I have never ever said that limit switches cause problems. It's the limit-switch 'system' that gave false alarms if I connected them in certain ways. That took me a few times of trial and error, and as is stands, those limit switches (the system as a whole), have never given me problems anymore.




This feels to me like its going into a direction where I'm supposed to just buy what you advise as being real and professional and all that...otherwise it's not worth your time. Given that there's thousands of CNC-machines out there that are driven by Arduino based electronics that are pushing out endless amounts of products, I don't think I'm on a wrong path, I am on a different path. I could argue about your opinion on the validity of Arduino driven CNC-machines, since you've never tried or looked at one. My choice for using the Arduino was based on what I had available and on a lot of reading to know if it really is able to drive a CNC-machine properly. I came to the conclusion that it was. And now that I have a working machine, I'm very sure that it is a proper solution with some limitations, but a good solution nevertheless.

And once again.. don't know how many times I have say that: I don't have electronic problems. Not with the switches, not with the overall electronics of the machine, none...This discussion started the last few days because the Z-axis motor behaved strange! As (I think Roger) said, it could have been a simple loose wire at the motor connection. (And yes, it could have been a loose wire at the breadboard, which will be addressed by replacing that in the coming days/weeks with a more permanent solution.)

All that I have been doing after that first problem is trying to follow your recommendations on proper electronics wiring, as I thought that could never hurt... That's what I've tried, tested and reported back to you and everyone reading this and that's where I've suggested ways for follow up testing to find the real problem, but there's no reply from you other than "rip it out and use REAL stuff". Now where do I go wrong, I'm giving my findings and suggestions on what I think is happening. So why do I get put up as stubborn, using toy electronic parts and not listening to the real 'professionals' and all that? I am supposed to just rip out everything and order all new stuff because you think those are REAL and GOOD and you use them when I'm not having any issues?

Mind you, at 24v currently, I'm very happy with the 2500mm/minute on the X, 1700mm/minute on the Y and 1000mm/minute on the Z without ever skipping a step...More than fast enough for me to get a grip on the machine. Might not be a Formula 1 car now, but with that "pesky / lousy" arduino and a 'scrap' 24v Meanwell power supply I'm doing just fine and guess what? I paid USD 50.00 for that part of the electronics. Your REAL driver DQ542MA lists at USD 115.00.. In a couple of months I might swap to higher voltage, say 36 or 48v and I might maybe upgrade my Drivers to better ones. Man, that's going to be fun, seeing that machine running.. but that's at a time where I'm fully confident with using the machine. (I didn't get my driving lessons in a F1-car either..) But it also might never happen and I'll keep perfectly happy with what I have...




You've given your comments, which I then took the time to test and report back. I've even made the effort to order parts to test and try different ways to meet the goals that you've set as being correct wiring practices. Yet, the only thing you do after the first tests where done by me is throwing in the towel and say that I have to rip out everything. You're not doing anyone on the forum a service with that. Here you have an interesting test-case (not a problem-case) where clearly there's something that goes against your knowledge (the caps on the limits for example) and yet you just cut it off and say that it is not right instead of having a proper discussion going on how that is possible..
For me, it is really interesting when for example both you and Roger discuss this. I'm more than willing to test and report back on my machine what works and what not, and the two of you sharing experience and knowledge trying to understand the physics behind it.
That's what a forum is for and that's what makes me enjoy posting here..




An upgrade in electronics will not happen for the time being for reasons given already. I'm using the MacBook, simply because the Arduino is multi platform and doesn't care about windows or linux or mac. I do have 1 very old and one fairly new PC (again both 'scrap'). The old one might be a future candidate as it has a Parallel port, but that's future talk right now.


So...
Once again, I know the above reply is fairly aggressive.
With all due respect, I feel like this conversation is totally going the wrong path and becomes more of a platform argument which is not related to the original post on the Z-axis motor from where this discussion started.
I'm trying suggestions that members like A_Camera give me, for which I am very grateful. period.
There's limitations I have in understanding certain electrical issues, so yes, I could sometimes ask 'strange or silly' questions and my wiring might not follow correct standards, but I do know I am taking advise seriously and try suggestions from members and report back what I found so others might learn from it as well.
If anyone feels that Arduino is not valid as a platform, then I respect that feeling and I will not argue with it. It's a choice, and not all choices work for everyone.

Kind regards,
Luc

Great post! Very well said and probably much more polite than I would be at this point. Post a video of your router working I would love to see it running. I just realized you are from Thailand. Cool.