[revwarguy]

Its all looking good.

You keeping dry from Earl? You might need to hang a line from the workshop to get back in the house!

[CarveOne]

Its all looking good.

You keeping dry from Earl? You might need to hang a line from the workshop to get back in the house!

Dry? Clothesline? All we had was about ten drops of rain and a little light breeze around 8am when one of the outer bands went through here.

It's all gone up north now.

It was supposed to go to 99F today, but Earl kept enough clouds over us that it hasn't gotten up to 90F yet.

CarveOne

[CarveOne]

The idea I had to fix the hinge issue works fine. Instead of screwing the hinge to the bottom edge of the oak trim and the rear wall of the frame at 90 degrees, I extended the hinge straight up behind the oak trim. Normally, there is no room for the screw heads so I drilled pockets into the rear panel for each screw head to go into when the table top was in the lowered position. The other choice was to just remove the offending OSB by cutting a notch behind the hinge. It's kinda hard to see the pockets in the photo.

I cut two pieces of MDF and glued them in place with Titebond II, then weighted them until dry. I'll remount the table top after stain and poly coats are applied.

The lower shelf is in place now.

All that remains to be done now is some stain and finish.

CarveOne

[CarveOne]

Final pics of the drum sander are attached. It's all completed and is working quite nicely . I'll rub on another two coats of clear satin polyurethane on the MDF table top and lower shelf over the weekend and let it harden for a few days, then carnuba wax the table top surface so that wood slides on it better.

Some home make-over show on TV will probably steal my stained OSB idea. Looks cool though. Antique-ish looking in a sort of old crate sort of way. I used Early American stain on the OSB and red oak trim, and golden oak on everything else. I didn't have enough of either one to do the whole machine. The darker stain makes the OSB black printing stand out a little less.

Next week I go back to work on the large CNC machine gantry rebuild when some steel arrives. Who said I was too slow?


CarveOne

[revwarguy]

Looks great. I guess I'll just have to stain my fence, too. I'm sure that big table will be nice for your larger pieces. One thing - my paper is red, I guess the regular aluminum oxide. Yours is white. Do you remember what kind it is? Klingspoor, right?

Just before my last message, I checked and Earl was category 5 and headed right for you. Next thing I know, it chickened and ran north, now its only an tropical storm far from home. Glad it missed you. I once lived in southern Florida during David and Andrew, and that was enough.

[CarveOne]

Looks great. I guess I'll just have to stain my fence, too. I'm sure that big table will be nice for your larger pieces. One thing - my paper is red, I guess the regular aluminum oxide. Yours is white. Do you remember what kind it is? Klingspoor, right?

Just before my last message, I checked and Earl was category 5 and headed right for you. Next thing I know, it chickened and ran north, now its only an tropical storm far from home. Glad it missed you. I once lived in southern Florida during David and Andrew, and that was enough.

Once the clouds disappeared around 12:30pm on Friday, the sky got really clear and by 4pm it was up to 98F.

Yes, it's 100 grit Klingspor roll paper. I don't recall what the grit is made of. Di-lithium diamond impregnated carbide of some sort probably.

While working on fitting the slot to the drum the tip of the spiral snagged and lifted the paper for about 3". It has never done that before. It wouldn't stay down after that happened, so I put a layer of green masking tape around both ends to keep it in place. There is enough clearance now that it probably won't be needed once I replace the paper strip. I'll continue to use the tape anyway as a means of staying off the area that may lift up again.

This was a good build. I had no plans to work from. Just winged it all the way. It just kind of fell together. Really unusual for me.

CarveOne

[revwarguy]

Yes, it's 100 grit Klingspor roll paper. I don't recall what the grit is made of. Di-lithium diamond impregnated carbide of some sort probably.
CarveOne

I've been looking at the depleted uranium sandpaper myself, but the shipping charges are a deal killer!

While working on fitting the slot to the drum the tip of the spiral snagged and lifted the paper for about 3".
CarveOne

That happened to me once, too, but it was only when I wasn't watching and allowed the board to get right up to the edge of the drum. Mine laid back down, and I've just stayed away from the edge since.

Just winged it all the way. It just kind of fell together. Really unusual for me.
CarveOne

Usually when I just wing it, it means building the same thing 2 or 3 times. I would love to see a project "just kind of fall together." What's that look like?

[CarveOne]

I've been looking at the depleted uranium sandpaper myself, but the shipping charges are a deal killer!



That happened to me once, too, but it was only when I wasn't watching and allowed the board to get right up to the edge of the drum. Mine layed back down, and I've just stayed away from the edge since.

The green tape shows me where to stay off of it. My eyes got tired of trying to follow that little point.

Usually when I just wing it, it means building the same thing 2 or 3 times. I would love to see a project "just kind of fall together." What's that look like?

You just saw it. For once, I don't see anything to change about it. (yet)

CarveOne

[osphoto]

This is a great way to get flat wood and such. Any one used this on metal?

I need something similar to get a smooth even surface on extruded aluminum pieces. I currently use a slab of granite with four cornet clamps holding down a piece of fine 3M 800 grit sand paper and use what ever liquid is at hand and start sanding down a smooth surface. I've used water and I've used wd40. This works but takes time to get out most of the extrude lines left in the metal.

This drum sander idea seems rather fun. Just wondering if anyone has used their drum sander for aluminum.

[CarveOne]

I haven't used mine for that purpose, but I see no reason it won't do the job. With these face sanders you need a very light pressure and keep the material moving fairly fast or you'll end up with valleys where you stop, even briefly. There is some technique to be learned.

CarveOne

[revwarguy]

I have. Using 120 grit, it takes several passes to remove even light scribe lines. Use a fence or the lines will be wavy. It does work though.

However,

This produces a very fine aluminum powder that is highly flammable. In fact, abrading various metals this way is how they produce additives for fireworks explosives to produce their various colors! Be careful here!

[osphoto]

I can't recall the last time I played with sparklers.

That's good advice on aluminum powder being flammable. Seems a sander such as this could use a mister when doing metal.

On the other hand, all that aluminum dust I've been making, I could try my luck at fireworks!

[CarveOne]

I don't think the aluminum dust (more like very small granules in this case) are likely to self ignite unless you let it build up excessively. If you combine it with an oxidizer compound then watch out. Aluminum dust burns like magnesium with enough heat applied to it. It takes a lot more heat to make it ignite though. The finer the dust is the more like a flash powder it becomes if it does ignite from friction. Use reasonable caution.

A shallow water tray under the drum might be useful.


CarveOne

[Donny M. Carter]

Sorry, I know this is an old thread!

@carveone, do you still use your drum sander? How has it held up? Thanks!

Donny