[jhowelb]

Well, I thought I was ordering an opto isolated board. come to find out that the C19 is not and this one is.

I still don't know if the C10 will do the job with the G251 so I'd be taking a pig in a poke.

At the proper time in the build of my machine I can test this board with a G203V with no danger of damage to the drive.

My concern with Kelling at this point is the reticence to provide documentation or even information. Al business relations are built on trust, which at this point has evaporated and all the reassurances as to character in the world won't change that now. Even paying the freight back would be throwing good money after bad.

On top of that my health is going into the tank really fast. Time is the one commodity I have the least of. I am using this project to teach my adopted grandson "how to" and I fear that I have only one shot left at getting it done. There are thing more valuable than money and leaving him with a first class machine is at the top of the list.

I will test the board, if it does not work I will try a straight connection board I have and failing that I will order another board from somewhere.

Aggravation? Oh you bet! And just requiring a simple explanation of just what the bloody H@$# the board does!!!

God I wish Gecko made a break out board!!!

[automationtechinc]

Today we have shipped a C10 to you for free ( free C10 and free shipping fee), your USPS priority mail tracking number is 9121 1288 8230 0424 3708 98
You will get next week. Keep your board, you do not need to ship back to me

www.kelinginc.net

[jonmessenger]

I too order the c10 and received the "new" board. being the brave soul that i am i just wired it up and ignored the jumpers, and it worked just fine. and my current problem is happening with this board or my ncPod.

[automationtechinc]

I too order the c10 and received the "new" board. being the brave soul that i am i just wired it up and ignored the jumpers, and it worked just fine. and my current problem is happening with this board or my ncPod.

This board will work great.

[Hobby0000]

I too order the c10 and received the "new" board. being the brave soul that i am i just wired it up and ignored the jumpers, and it worked just fine. and my current problem is happening with this board or my ncPod.

This board with SmoothStepper USB worked fine in our system

[crocky]

Kelinginc are also sending me a C10 tomorrow.

I have offered to send the board back to them but they said it was okay to keep it.

Thank you John.

I am more than happy with the rest of the shipment and when the C10 arrives I can put it to use and get my CNC happening

[jhowelb]

The postman just delivered a board clearly marked C10 rev 8.3 with instructions clearly printed right on it for setting the jumpers. All the pins and commons as well as power connections are easily discernible.

Imagine that!

Thank you!

[LeeWay]

That's probably why I would be able to help you with that one.
It's a nice little BOB.

[crocky]

The postman just delivered a board clearly marked C10 rev 8.3 with instructions clearly printed right on it for setting the jumpers. All the pins and commons as well as power connections are easily discernible.

Imagine that!

Thank you!

Good to see that it's all well now

[Mike Everman]

I'm looking at what manuals there are for the C10, and nowhere is it stated what the frequency limits are for input and output signals.
Presumably there is an overall frequency limit on step and direction signals out, that must be divided among how many axes are in motion at once. The parallel port can only serve it up so fast, right?

Likewise, there must be an input frequency limit that I must know to know how fast I can go without things going mental.

Also, there is a wiring example for an encoder, single ended A+B, but not for a full duplex encoder. Is this possible?
It says "parallel port" but does not state if it must be EPP or not.

Looks like a good, inexpensive product. I'm using Teknic amps which will do loop closure at very high frequency. Their input limit is 10MHz on the encoder, but I do not expect anything like that out of this product, just need to know what it's limits are, to know if I will need to go to a PCI board.

[jalessi]

Mike,

You should contact Arturo he is the person who designs the C10

http://cnc4pc.com


Arturo E. Duncan

1337 SW Sultan Dr.

Port Saint Lucie, FL 34953

Phone:561-2086664

Fax: 772-4098606

email: [email protected]

[Mike Everman]

Hey, thanks!

[rlrhett]

So, what was the final verdict? Will these Chinese made opto isolated boards work with the Gecko 251's with their common ground or only with common hot driver boards?

[jhowelb]

So, what was the final verdict? Will these Chinese made opto isolated boards work with the Gecko 251's with their common ground or only with common hot driver boards?

About the "undocumented" board I can't say. I sent it back untested and untried.

The C10 works as advertised, connections are clearly labeled and the board is accurately documented. No problems.

Duncan designed them and sells them. All the dealings I've had with them have been without complaint.

[rykegrey]

I don't know if anyone will read this but here goes.
My Name is Roger McCarthy I have bought 15 c10 Breakout Boards (parallel port interface card) from different distributors. In all 1 was burnt out(Ebay) and of the other 14, 5 are Version 8.3, and the rest are Version 10. now version 8.3 are easy to wire and I have no problems with them. They have only 2 jumper sets. The version 10 are not as easy to wire and someone should make an updated schematic.

Version 10 has 4 jumper sets.

This may be your problem. If any knows how to post a picture I can send them some for version 10 as all my version 8.3 are wired and sold. Email [email protected]

[br1]

I am using Mach3 and have this cnc4pc C10 Rev10 and I want to use some Tol-o-matic hall effect switches for my homing, There is a blue a brown and a black wire, I assume I want to use pins 2-9, how do I set the jumpers and which wire goes where? I have applied power to the board with a usb connection so I know it works, I put brown and black together to the 5v and blue to pin 12 just to see if the switch would light up and it does. I am also wondering what else I need to make this work, so when I push referance all the axis goes to my home. I have not yet plugged in the parrell port, but am using a second pci card which is set up. Does anyone have real pictures of this knid of set up?

[jalessi]

br1,

Tol-o-matic has many different types of switches, what model number do you have?

The label color also indicates what type of switch it is.

Jeff...

[wildwestpat]

Hi

The brown wire goes to the C10 +5 volts and the blue wire to the zero volts of the C10. The black wire is the output from the electronics in the hall sensor and will sink or source current so is connected to pin 12 see:-

http://www.tolomatic.com/products/su...sub_page_no=62

The use of 'electronic' multiple switches will require you to use some external logic or another PCI parallel LPT card in your PC running Mach3.

Mach3 will when you have configured the inputs drive the axis to home correctly under power. Mach3 homes each axis in turn so that all the home switches can be operated from the same input. Any axis limit switches may help you chose between external logic or an additional parallel port.

Regards

Pat

[br1]

What I have is a Tol-o-matic sourcing hall effect switch(PNP)
3600-9088. Thank you for the replies, where is the zero volts.
It has a White tag. The link goes to the exact picture of what I have.

[br1]

Thanks wildwestpat that is what worked I did as you said and it seemed to work, however the light on the switch didn't go out when I passed a piece of metal in front of it, so in mach3 it would not find it when I used the automated setup of inputs, I ended up taking off the switch an using a regular NO switch for each axis and it works fine, I wasted so much time on this, but learned a lot by trial and error.