[wizard]

Actually, 3 parts. The base, The extended part, and then the top of the extended part. I milled the pockets in the base, left it in the vise, glued the 2nd layer on. milled the pocket, the glued the next layer on, surfaced it, then milled the profiles. Worked out better that way, strong glue join, cleaner edges than trying to glue two milled parts together. Two more to make.. need to paint them.. If I had a 5 axis machine, I could have done it out of a single piece. Or, at least 2 layers glued together and milled all the same time. Oh well.. it worked just fine this way.

We use a lot of PVC, Lexan and other "plastics" at work, some of which are very expensive. PVC lumber should be just as good or maybe better for something like this.
As far as that 5 axis machine, we all have tools we like to see in our shops! The important thing is that you didn't let the absence of that 5 axis machine stop you.

[Connor]

We use a lot of PVC, Lexan and other "plastics" at work, some of which are very expensive. PVC lumber should be just as good or maybe better for something like this.
As far as that 5 axis machine, we all have tools we like to see in our shops! The important thing is that you didn't let the absence of that 5 axis machine stop you.

Yea, the PVC lumber worked pretty good for milling.. Painting.. looks to be a different story.. I'm getting some strange results on the edges were the PVC lumber changes densities. goes from High to Low to High to High (new layer) to Low) to High to High (another new layer). So, the paint shows up differently in the Low densities area. Oh Well.. maybe 2nd coat will make it look better.

[wizard]

Yea, the PVC lumber worked pretty good for milling.. Painting.. looks to be a different story..

I've never tried painting. I have used some of the decking material around the house. The manufacture actually reccomended aging the material before painting.

I'm getting some strange results on the edges were the PVC lumber changes densities. goes from High to Low to High to High (new layer) to Low) to High to High (another new layer). So, the paint shows up differently in the Low densities area. Oh Well.. maybe 2nd coat will make it look better.

A seller or primer might help. It might help to sand between coats too.

[Connor]

Okay, stepper covers painted, engraved and installed. I think they turned out pretty good. Again, I like the placement of my connectors. It protects them and makes things look nice.

Thanks, Connor

[Connor]

Playing around with placement of E-Chain for the Z Axis. I like this side best because of the placement of all the existing wires. The control box won't always be mounted on the side. But it'll still work without issues.

[Connor]

Well DANG! I was using the machine tonight to turn down the top hat for the power draw bar. Started hearing grinding noises coming from the spindle and little bit of smoke.. I shut everything down and checked the spindle.. felt fine.. Fired it back up..same grinding noise.. powered it down and pulled the motor.. spun the spindle by hand.. nothing seemed wrong. Hooked the motor up to the controller.. turned it on.. sounded okay... AT first.. then it started kicking in and out a bit... and then finally started sputtering and my shop lights starting dimming in and out.. shut it all down. I do believe my motor has given up the ghost! Now, for the bad news.. I think my 1 year warranty is up. I received my mill in 6/10/2011. I just hope they will do something about it given all the crap that other people have had with the motors in these things!! Hopefully will find out in the morning.. Guess I'll start looking around for a tredmill motor for a replacement or something. Only bad thing is, it's really the only thing I have that I can make parts with.. Not sure how I'll get the tredmill motor mounted!

Thanks, Connor

[Connor]

Well, Good News, Grizzly said they'll replace the motor at no charge.. Bad News, 4-6 Weeks before the replacement shows up baring any delays. Looking at a treadmill motor, but, even if I get it, I can't install it because I have no way to make the brackets, nor have I done the Belt conversion yet. Bummer.

[Xnaron]

Well, Good News, Grizzly said they'll replace the motor at no charge.. Bad News, 4-6 Weeks before the replacement shows up baring any delays. Looking at a treadmill motor, but, even if I get it, I can't install it because I have no way to make the brackets, nor have I done the Belt conversion yet. Bummer.

You should get them to send you a new controller too. Likely that motor took out the controller.

[wizard]

It is more bad news for the 704 though! I've yet to purchase mine but let's face it there is much negativity surrounding theis machine. Spindle motors that give up the ghost for no reason is just one issue. The rather poor mechanical fit ups noted in other threads being another issue. All of this adds up to significant quality issues. This makes me wonder if the 704 is the right machine to buy.

Well, Good News, Grizzly said they'll replace the motor at no charge.. Bad News, 4-6 Weeks before the replacement shows up baring any delays. Looking at a treadmill motor, but, even if I get it, I can't install it because I have no way to make the brackets, nor have I done the Belt conversion yet. Bummer.

It was already mentioned but you need to make sure the speed control was not trashed by the motor self destructing.

As a side note you might try taking the motor to a local automation supply house to see if it is a common metric frame motor. You may be able to find a DC motor that fits. Power would likely be less but a quality motor should last.

[Connor]

You should get them to send you a new controller too. Likely that motor took out the controller.

I'll check over the speed controller. I tested it with my volt meter and it looked okay. I'll hook it up to the mini-lathe motor and see if it works.

[Connor]

It is more bad news for the 704 though! I've yet to purchase mine but let's face it there is much negativity surrounding theis machine. Spindle motors that give up the ghost for no reason is just one issue. The rather poor mechanical fit ups noted in other threads being another issue. All of this adds up to significant quality issues. This makes me wonder if the 704 is the right machine to buy.


It was already mentioned but you need to make sure the speed control was not trashed by the motor self destructing.

As a side note you might try taking the motor to a local automation supply house to see if it is a common metric frame motor. You may be able to find a DC motor that fits. Power would likely be less but a quality motor should last.

Wizard,

I honestly don't think this changes anything with regards to the G0704. My machine was from around the same time as other people who were having issues. I just let it sit for a while before using it. I've really not done a ton of work with it. The motor probably had less than 15 hours on it.

I was using horizontally (like a lathe) turning a 4" chuck parting a 1.5" Diameter CRS that I had turned down. It's possible I was running it too hard. I was running about 2k in high gear. I did have it stall on me earlier in the evening but it worked fine afterwards to turn down the complete part except for the parting. (which I was doing manually..) But honestly the way it went out it almost sounded like it had a internal short or something.. Could a chip have made it's way into it motor? At first I thought a bearing had seized up.. but, I think it's electrical now.. Could be both.. I may tear the motor down and do a post-mortem on it.

Thanks, Connor

[wizard]

That is if there is something common.

Wizard,

I honestly don't think this changes anything with regards to the G0704. My machine was from around the same time as other people who were having issues. I just let it sit for a while before using it. I've really not done a ton of work with it. The motor probably had less than 15 hours on it.

I'm not sure people ave stopped having issues with the motors.

I was using horizontally (like a lathe) turning a 4" chuck parting a 1.5" Diameter CRS that I had turned down. It's possible I was running it too hard. I was running about 2k in high gear.

You would think that if you did something wrong either fusing or motor protection circuits would open. This brings up the question of what if any protection is offered. A properly sized fuse should be able to provide running overload protection.

I did have it stall on me earlier in the evening but it worked fine afterwards to turn down the complete part except for the parting. (which I was doing manually..) But honestly the way it went out it almost sounded like it had a internal short or something..

Interesting. This is where inspection of the motor might help.

Could a chip have made it's way into it motor? At first I thought a bearing had seized up.. but, I think it's electrical now.. Could be both.. I may tear the motor down and do a post-mortem on it.

Thanks, Connor

There are many possible failure modes. I believe these are universal motors so there is lots to go wrong. Well compared to an induction motor.

[Connor]

Good News.

Thanks to a fellow CNCZone member who loaned me his non-used g0704 motor, I'm back up and running. Looks like the motor controller is good.

I did tear down the burned our motor and review it.. Here is what I believe happened. I think *I* caused the burn out. At one point when I was turning down the steel for the top hat for the PDB, and the spindle stalled.. Too slow RPM and too fast feed rate (in high gear). It took a good 2-3 seconds for me to realize it and hit the eStop. I think that weakened one of the windings on the motor. I fired it back up and everything looked good and I proceeded with the operation. Then proceeded to do use a cut-off operation.. Which as you all know is very hard on motors. I think the weakened winding finally couldn't handle the stress and extra heat generated by this operation and burned into. Centrifugal forces flung the wire out, which contacted the side of the permanent magnet causing it to break off and grind up inside the motor.. causing the grinding noises I heard, and probably caused additional shorting. Anyway..


Since this motor hasn't been ran more than a few minutes, I'm going to go ahead and run the standard break in procedure as if it was a new machine.

I think it was in low gear, 600 RPM for 10 minutes, then 1000 RPM for 10 minutes, 2200 RPM for 10 minutes, then in Reverse @ 1000 RPM for 10 minutes. What I'm not sure about is when to flip from low gear to high gear. You can run the 1000 RPM in both low and high.. and they don't say anything about it.

I'm still looking on ebay for the same Nordic motor that Hoss used.. I found several that are close, but, not exact. They tend to be a bit larger both in specifications and in size... I may bight the bullet and grab one anyway and try it.

Thanks, Connor

[Xnaron]

Glad you got it working again! Let us know if you find the motor.

[Titaniumboy]

I did tear down the burned our motor and review it. ....I think *I* caused the burn out. At one point when I was turning down the steel for the top hat for the PDB, and the spindle stalled....It took a good 2-3 seconds for me to realize it and hit the eStop.

It shouldn't matter that you stalled the motor. The motor protection (usually consisting of fuses and overload heaters) should trip the motor offline before the motor suffers any damage. That being said, I'll have to check my G0704 and see if they actually installed any appropriate motor protection.

I'm going to go ahead and run the standard break in procedure as if it was a new machine.

I think it was in low gear, 600 RPM for 10 minutes, then 1000 RPM for 10 minutes, 2200 RPM for 10 minutes, then in Reverse @ 1000 RPM for 10 minutes. What I'm not sure about is when to flip from low gear to high gear. You can run the 1000 RPM in both low and high.. and they don't say anything about it.

I broke my machine in on only one of the gears. I'm looking forward to the advice you get on this.

I'm still looking on ebay for the same Nordic motor that Hoss used.. I found several that are close, but, not exact. They tend to be a bit larger both in specifications and in size... I may bight the bullet and grab one anyway and try it.

Will be watching closely what you come up with here.

I have the Hoss plans also, and haven't decided to go with the Phase 1 or go directly to the Phase 2 and ballscrews. How was your experience using the Phase 1 stock leadscrews?

Titaniumboy

[Connor]

It shouldn't matter that you stalled the motor. The motor protection (usually consisting of fuses and overload heaters) should trip the motor offline before the motor suffers any damage. That being said, I'll have to check my G0704 and see if they actually installed any appropriate motor protection.




I broke my machine in on only one of the gears. I'm looking forward to the advice you get on this.



Will be watching closely what you come up with here.

I have the Hoss plans also, and haven't decided to go with the Phase 1 or go directly to the Phase 2 and ballscrews. How was your experience using the Phase 1 stock leadscrews?

Titaniumboy

Stock screws good for my use right now... No major issues and backlash doesn't appear to be too bad.

[Connor]

OKay, Status on the Belt drive conversion. Motor mount is done, Base is done except for drilling the mounting holes. Top hat for Power Draw bar done. Just need to drill the holes in the base, do the bearing upgrade on the spindle and mount everything.. I'm just missing the Kluber Isoflex grease for it.. So, do anyone by chance have any kluber isoflex nbu 15 ? I can't see spending $32.00 + shipping ($40.00) for the bearing upgrade for 1.5cc. I would prefer to use the Isoflex.. I can't find it locally, and don't need anywhere near that amount for this.. so, I'm hopping someone who already has a tube of it, might be nice enough to send me a small amount??

Thanks, Connor

[Connor]

OKay, Status on the Belt drive conversion. Motor mount is done, Base is done except for drilling the mounting holes. Top hat for Power Draw bar done. Just need to drill the holes in the base, do the bearing upgrade on the spindle and mount everything.. I'm just missing the Kluber Isoflex grease for it.. So, do anyone by chance have any kluber isoflex nbu 15 ? I can't see spending $32.00 + shipping ($40.00) for the bearing upgrade for 1.5cc. I would prefer to use the Isoflex.. I can't find it locally, and don't need anywhere near that amount for this.. so, I'm hopping someone who already has a tube of it, might be nice enough to send me a small amount??

Thanks, Connor

Okay, so, no one has any Isoflex NBU 15? I'm done with the belt drive conversion except for the Bearing upgrade. It's the last thing I need to do before I can get my machine up and running again. Can someone recommend some other kind of grease to use other than the Isoflex NBU 15 that can be gotten locally a bit cheaper ?

Thanks, Connor

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Use grease - ANY grease! At the speeds these machines run, spending money on uber-grease is just silly. ANY good quality grease will work just fine.

[Connor]

Use grease - ANY grease! At the speeds these machines run, spending money on uber-grease is just silly. ANY good quality grease will work just fine.

7 to 8k RPM?