[Ntl]

What kind of router are you using? I'm just curious since I haven't done any thick aluminum yet with my router. I want to do some, just haven't yet.

Thanks,
Dan

[davida1234]

A close-up of the BoB installation.

The servos require a bit more wiring
than steppers if you want to utilize all
their capabilities like HLFB and enable.

My goal was to make everything
as much a Plug'n'Play as possible
and I didn't like all the wires
coming in at the BoB.

I am using two wing pcb's for the BoB.
Their headers simply screw into
terminals of the BoB:
Attachment 414400

They don't have any electronics on
board but are simply 'organizing'
wiring for the RJ45 jacks and other
terminals. They are all labeled and
color coded:
Attachment 414402

[davida1234]

What kind of router are you using? I'm just curious since I haven't done any thick aluminum yet with my router.

Dan, I cut everything on my previous self-built machine.

[davida1234]

Now to the AC side of things.

I tried to keep everything on
that side very simple as well.

Please let me know if there are
any fatal mistakes I am making
here as I am not an electrician.

Screw-in the 240V power cable with
installed male/female quick connects:
Attachment 414414

Push the wires onto the 2-pole
20A circuit breaker:
Attachment 414416

Screw-in the laptop PS cable with
installed quick connects the same
way and connect to male/female QC:

[davida1234]

Place the circuit breaker into place:
Attachment 414420

Front view:
Attachment 414422

[davida1234]

Wire the protected side of the circuit
breaker connections as shown. These
are the functions of the lower PCB:
Attachment 414424

Some detail of the board:
Attachment 414426



The 20A 5V relay is isolated (min. 1/4")
on the PCB and uses only its QC tabs.

The laptop PS is always on. The laptop's
USB 5V switches on the main PS through
the relay and therefor the machine (main PS)
can not be switched on without the laptop
running.

[davida1234]

Install the third frame of the E-box.

Place the two fans into place:
Attachment 414430

And connect their wires to
the lower PCB:

[davida1234]

Install the 4th and final frame of the E-box:
Attachment 414438

Attachment 414440

Plug in all cables:
Attachment 414442

And screw on the acrylic cover:

[davida1234]

The E-Box is finished.

All connections of the E-box:


Enough for today....

[Ntl]

Do you have a disconnect and fuses? You should have the line in going to the properly sized disconnect then ideally contactors to fuses or fast blow breakers feeding the different powered items ie: power supplies, VFD, dust collector, coolant pump, fans if they are AC powered and so on. You need to have a branch circuit for the electronics, or you won't have the proper protection. Insert worst case fire hazard best case fried electronics. I know you're trying to make everything really clean and space efficient, but from what I've seen with how you wired up the power supply to a little switch, it's not the way I would do it. Looks cool but not safe in my opinion.

Here's some good resources that might be helpful. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...eKoR_TGFrbi1UH
Dan

[mactec54]

Do you have a disconnect and fuses? You should have the line in going to the properly sized disconnect then ideally contactors to fuses or fast blow breakers feeding the different powered items ie: power supplies, VFD, dust collector, coolant pump, fans if they are AC powered and so on. You need to have a branch circuit for the electronics, or you won't have the proper protection. Insert worst case fire hazard best case fried electronics. I know you're trying to make everything really clean and space efficient, but from what I've seen with how you wired up the power supply to a little switch, it's not the way I would do it. Looks cool but not safe in my opinion.

Here's some good resources that might be helpful. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...eKoR_TGFrbi1UH
Dan

Don't be fooled by his switches they come as Breakers as well and can be used as a switch, Breaker come in many different types I have some rocker switches that are a 25A Breaker and work just as well as any other type

[davida1234]

Dan, thank you for your input. As I said, I am not an electrician
and appreciate any comments about the installation. As
Mactec54 pointed out, I called out the disconnect you mention
as a 2-pole circuit breaker.

Teknic servo system does not require fuses on the DC side.
They even show on their own PS schematic no DC fuses. The
small 12V 2.5A PS has its own overload protection on board.

[Ntl]

I was talking about the AC side of things not the DC side. I don't have any fuses in between the DC power and the drivers.

I was just stating that everything the AC line is feeding should have protection, either breakers or fuses if you want to do it the right way. I didn't think that the unregulated power supply had a fuse in it. I also didn't know that toggle switch was a breaker, the 20amp raiting doesn't mean it's a breaker. I would have to look up the part number to know what it is. I just thought it was a 20amp toggle switch. And like I said you really want to have contactors as well, I still need to add them to my controller since I want it to be "bullet proof".

If you're comfortable with it and you're not selling it than you can do whatever you want and you don't need it to be compliant. I was just saying it's not really how most would do it. I was just trying to help you avoid potentially damaged electronics or the potential for a shop fire. Just trying to be helpful since you asked for some advice on the AC side of things.

Nice looking machine and post some videos of it cutting when you're done!! Good job with the build looks really nice!

Dan

[Ntl]

Don't be fooled by his switches they come as Breakers as well and can be used as a switch, Breaker come in many different types I have some rocker switches that are a 25A Breaker and work just as well as any other type

As long as they ul489 then yes, it just didn't look like that's what he's running. I suppose I should have asked if it was ul489 circuit breaker toggle switch.

Dan

[davida1234]

And like I said you really want to have contactors as well, I still need to add them to my controller since I want it to be "bullet proof".
If you're comfortable with it and you're not selling it than you can do whatever you want and you don't need it to be compliant.

Dan, thank you for your comments and help.

I didn't mean to sound like opposing your
suggestions. Just pointed out that the switch
was in fact a circuit breaker.

My question would be:
Is a contactor required by code to be compliant?
Or, is a properly sized relay non-compliant?
I certainly would like to be compliant, just for myself.

If a relay is not compliant, I will try to replace it with
a contactor. Or ask for suggestions from you guys.

[davida1234]

These are the spec sheets for the
relay and the circuit breaker:

[Ntl]

You don't have to have contactors unless you were running a AC motor or anything else high amp. I personally want to install contactors so I can install momentary switches to power up my different components individualy and down the road I'm going to install a plc to control them. It's just a better way of controlling the AC power a more industrial solution safer since the contacts can't weld themselves together if there is a short, but not required unless you are running a AC powered motor.

All you need to be compliant is proper UL rated disconnect and UL rated branch circuit protection. It can be as simple as a disconnect switch and properly rated fuses or UL 489breaker in between the disconnect and the power supplies, VFD. If that switch is a ul489 breaker toggle switch and it's rated properly you should be fine.

The additional protection is more of a choice, I personally want every component to have it's own protection. Example say you have three different things pulling power from one breaker disconnect, ones 10amp one is 3amp and one is 7amp and your running 25amp breaker. If the 10amp shorts out it might not pop the 25amp breaker. That's why you should have a fuse or a supplementary breaker appropriately sized for each of the different components. Make sense?

If that breaker that you're using is only powering the power supply and it's the proper amps then you're good to go. If you're using it for multiple power supplies and the VFD or anything else that is running off the line power, you would need to add the additional protection I mentioned above.

I apologized if I'm telling you things you already know. I was just letting you know in case you didn't already know. I just saw that toggle switch and assumed it was just a toggle since I haven't seen one that looks like it that was a breaker. My bad and what brand is it, it looks nice I've never seen one before.

Dan

[Ntl]

Ok so I looked at the toggle and it's not rated for a disconnect, it's UL1077 you need UL489. 1077 would be used after the disconnect in a branch circuit. So say you have 3 components, line in through the 489disconnect then you would have 3 separate 1077 breakers feeding the different components one each, or you could run one 489 feeding all 3, but I personally would use fuses or quick blow 1077 breaker's. The 1077 aren't raited to be used as stand alone disconnects, they are used in conjunction with a 489 or 508 disconnect.

Read the link I posted also Google 98,489,508,1077 so you can see where and when to use them. Also the 508 relay is good and similar to a Contactor just lower amps and it won't have the breaking power for the contacts that a Contactor would have.

Dan

[davida1234]

Dan, thank you for your time to look them up.
Great info and suggestions.

I think I understand what you are trying to explain.

One UL489 as main entry.
Then a fuse or breaker for each main load
(PS and VFD).
The relay is OK (not great).

I will redesign (and recut) the AC part of the
E-box to integrate those.

Any suggestions for a compact UL489?
Couldn't find any at Digikey. Probably
because I don't know what to look for.....

The ones I found are so goddamn big.
Attachment 414570

Also, after the disconnect, will a simple fuse
such as this for each load comply ?
Attachment 414572

[Ntl]

Check out Automation Direct there's another good vendor that someone just showed me, let me find it for you I don't remember what the company was. I bought all my stuff from Automation Direct though but the other place had better pricing, but they weren't Eaton they were a different brand some European company. And yes on the simple fuse holder's they actually work faster than breakers, I just personally decided to use 1077 breakers since I had the space but the fuses are really better protection and cheaper. I just wanted to be able to use the breakers since they look better lol. If you check out my router build you can see what I did on my controller. I used a big disconnect and fed the breakers then it branches out to the VFD and power supplies. My power supplies have fuses internally so I have one breaker for the DC supplies and one breaker for the VFD. I'm going to add at least one contactor though like I was saying so I can turn on the disconnect then use a momentary switch to power up the controller. It's overkill but I like the idea of a more industrial type of controller.

I'll look for that other vendor for you.

Dan