[freeidaho]

Howdy,
From my series of questions here, y'all probably know I'm building my own base and coolant enclosure. I have drawn up a set of plans with the features I think are important from my research, that I'd like your experienced eye to look over and find any mistakes, or for you to make suggestions. If you have the time, that would be great. Thank you either way.

kr

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[cncadmin]

That looks great good so far..

[LSM]

Take a look at a smaller haas or fadal then kind of copy that, don't go by how Tormach did it.
coolant on the Tormach system is very much an afterthought.

Be sure to make room in the enclosureto allow the use of a real 6" vice like a kurt.

[Tormachmaster]

Ok I have already done this. I took 2x2x1/4 tubing built a frame. I had a 1/2" thick sheet of steel had it bent to wrap around the frame and welded it. I added a 3/4" bolt with a pad at each foot for leveling. Then I took a 4x8 sheet of aluminum bent and welded it for a pan did the same for a wrap around wall and added two clear doors. very simple and it is rock solid.Four years now and my machine is still level. I can do some pictures or draw something up in a few days.

[mountaindew]

Ok I have already done this. I took 2x2x1/4 tubing built a frame. I had a 1/2" thick sheet of steel had it bent to wrap around the frame and welded it. I added a 3/4" bolt with a pad at each foot for leveling. Then I took a 4x8 sheet of aluminum bent and welded it for a pan did the same for a wrap around wall and added two clear doors. very simple and it is rock solid.Four years now and my machine is still level. I can do some pictures or draw something up in a few days.

Wow bend 1/2" thick steel to wrap frame!
Bet that takes a big tool mounted to concrete floor
Sounds like a solid base!
I purchased my base but would enjoy looking at pictures of yours. Never know when I will see something new or great idea for my shop
anyway had to comment on the 1/2" material.

[Tormachmaster]

I'm not sure the how many ton machine they used but I will say I was amazed how snug the fit to the tubes were and how flat the plate was they told me that was an easy bend for their machine, thats all I had to know.

[mike sr1]

I bent some 1/2" plates on my 100 ton press, they were only about 4 x 6" though, the larger you go the more tonnage it takes. These only took about 25 ton to bend them if I remember correctly.

[LSM]

keep in mind The machine isn't that heavy less than 2000 pounds.
2" .125 thick square tube is more then adequate, 16 or 18 gauge sheet metal welded to the the tube frame will make it plenty strong.
That part they got right on the factory stand.
Where you want to deviate is how you deal with the coolant drains, you need 2 one on each side left and right, that are recessed so there is no lip
that coolant has to flow up and over. bigger tank
sheet metal to keep chips and coolant out from under the bottom of the machine.
put the computer at a comfortable height behind the controller panel getting down on you knees to get at it is a pain.

For the enclosure needs to be deep enough to accommodate the standard 6" Kurt vice.
height about as tall as the Z axis servo top, side panels need to be easily removable for chip cleaning and maintenance
Also need to be able to access the ATC side rear to install and maintain the ATC.

Need to add remote e-stop button ideally emulating a control pendant set up
with monitor keyboard mouse functions and jog control all in one neat unit.

[freeidaho]

Howdy,
Thank you all for your replies. Most of the things mentioned were already in the design. One thing I did pick up on is the need for more drain capacity. I was going do to the dual 1.5" drain thing, but wandering round Home Depot looking for ideas I found shower drains. They exit into 2" inside diameter ABS.



Thanks for the help,

kr

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Unless you're working with small tools, or just doing very light milling, you'll find drains that size will clog VERY easily. On my machines, I had 4" diameter drains, and they still clogged up at times.

Regards,
Ray L.

[freeidaho]

Ray,
I'm confused. I appreciate your advice but this is the Tormach forum... right. I have seen very few Tormachs with two 1.5" drains, let alone two 2" drains.

By the time the coolant gets to the drains, it has been strained by two 10" diameter fine double screen strainers, and by something like the Chip Trap that is 28" x 14". This coolant system is something like 10X the capacity of a typical Tormach system. I'm hoping that it is going to work peachy.

Thanks again for your help.

kr

[Tormachmaster]

[QUOTE=LSM;1446878]keep in mind The machine isn't that heavy less than 2000 pounds.
2" .125 thick square tube is more then adequate, 16 or 18 gauge sheet metal welded to the the tube frame will make it plenty strong.
That part they got right on the factory stand.

I have to disagree with this one. A solid base can mean zero issues. I have read alot of issues on this board on and off of leveling going on 4 years now and have not had to touch the leveling yet. You just about can never have too solid of a base. The base is where you start go cheap or lightweight there and you will be on a roll towards being unhappy with the end result. Seen it to many times where someone builds their base light and seem to be the ones always needing to level their machine or complains of surface finishes it's always on this site every few months. MAKE YOUR MACHING BASE SOLID AS POSSIBLE AND IT WILL PERFORM AS IT SHOULD AND THEN SOME. Just my two cents.

[mountaindew]

Ditto,
In the construction business it all starts with a good solid foundation that is level, plumb and square. Anything less and you will fight it every step of the way.
I don't know about machine performance and how much it adds or subtracts from it. Years of construction experience tells me everything makes some difference.
I purchased the stand because I wanted a designed system. I know a better stand can be built, but not much better when you figure cost.
They have factory for making such things, buying material wholesale, a design that does not change, tools to make quality bends, welds...cleaning and finishing.
Hard to compete with that unless your needs are different then the design. The little comment about the design that does not change is key for me. I would spend 2x more trying to build the base because I would overbuild and change the design to much.

main point
It starts with a strong foundation that is plumb, level and square.

I know this helps you little with your design review, sorry. mostly an opinion of what is important to me.

md

[freeidaho]

md,
No worries. When one asks for a design review they hope people will actually study the design enough to understand it, turn their red pens up to stun and make suggestions, or comments, or regale them with tales of learning and experience. I have already made the design better in a couple of ways from this thread, and another thread on a different forum.

I'm an experienced welder and fabricator and have been around oil rigs, construction and I work at a Locomotive manufacturer. I've made trailers, dragsters, observed trials motorcycle frame, and a whole host of things. This base will be strong enough to park a pickup or two on.

Thanks all,

kr

[rowbare]

I looked at your drawings fairly quickly so I hope I didn't miss this. I would suggest that you extend the front 6-8". This can be a lip at bellows height. The reason for that is that the front edge of the table comes very close to the front of the base at Y- and the vise will overhang the base.

I looked again. It looks as though you have made allowance for this in your doors. Will the coolant coming off the front of the vise into the doors drain back into the table tray?

It is a nice looking design. I hope you will post a build log.

bob

[mountaindew]

Figured your a very experience fabricator just by looking at your drawings. very detailed!
These are just opinions on a few things and one that I don't think will work well for you.
The big chip / drain pan slope from right to left is great design. I would put as much slope as possible on the right side by lowering the coolant tank height "not capacity". Also getting a good seal where the machine support steel goes through that sloped pan will require attention and time during fab. I would also make the base frame from square tube steel maybe to make the chip pan fab less complicated. " I think its hard to see in 2d drawings where your going to snag at.
The upper enclosure front wings on left and right are ok, but i would keep front as wide open as possible, for cleaning, setup, repair. And make it all so you can take it off in case you need to clean, setup, repair or add options to your mill.
The front plastic chip guard will be a bit floppy at .18" thick x 4ft wide. I do a little work with plastic so I know this will not work well. Also imho make it simple and flat for easy storage like hang on wall. also imho make it no taller then front of your machine base so you can remove and set down in front of you leaning up against base while you change tools or work inside machine envelope..... "one movement anyway". also again imho the upper front plastic guard does not need to be so high, 2ft max would catch 90% of the mess or more. Also when setting machine on base the engine hoist legs get in the way and require extra blocking under base to get under. Maybe take that into consideration also in your design,maybe longer levelers or some other..... or not worry about it cuz you don't move it much!

you asked for review!
Overall decent design
Looking forward to seeing you set up your machine
md

[freeidaho]

MD,
Thank you for the review.

My engine hoist is a low rider. It has been with me for a while, and has already been lowered for other jobs. That is, the wheels are no longer under the square tubing, but beside it. And I figured I may have to use a pallet jack to temporarily put the base up on blocks for mill installation.

The chip pan has no cut outs for anything, including the angle iron frame. I know it is hard to tell from 2D drawings. It just welds to the inside of the top of the base, then gets powder coated to seal it all up.

I will talk to my lexan guy to see if we need to make the front door from thicker stuff or add stiffeners. The jog out space in the door is what allows the smallest possible floor space use. And I need the minimum floor space use or it just doesn't fit into my one car garage with all my other tools and a motorcycle lift/hydraulic welding table. When not in use the door will be put inside the enclosure and the minimal footprint will be realized.

Thanks for the hint on the door stucture. I hate going backwards almost more than anything. I will design a fix for it now that I know. Good catch.

kr