Well, after all this time,... guess what showed up under the tree?
Well, after all this time,... guess what showed up under the tree?
I've been using the bosh colt for just over a year now.
Its been a great piece of kit!
I think this will be my replacement unit when it does.
but I do need the 1/8" collets. Any word on them yet?
Cheers!
My Build: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/113711-my_build_-_many_thanks.html
I’m also interested in a 1/8” collet as well. Anyone having luck at finding a source?
Rob.
Deeds not words...
VoltsAndBolts runs RC for the builder. http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/ My Forum
I did a search and came up with this item:
STEWMAC.COM : Adapter Collet
Its sitting here on my desk, haven't used it yet. I can't remember where I found it, but the user that recommended it was using it with this router.
PiperPilot
I bought a couple of the StewMac adapters mentioned in last post and have been using them for about a month. They work great, seem to run true tho I admit I have not measured the runout yet. Think I will go do that right now.
I have had no problems tho I was concerned about the brass deforming. However, I have cut aluminum with a 1/8" 2 flute end mill using these adapters and have had no problems.
Don
Update- I just went to the workshop and measured the runout with the StewMac 1/8" adapter. Measuring at what would be the end of the bit at approx 3/4" from the collet, I got .001 - .0015 TIR. If I rotated the adapter 90 or 180 degrees before retightening, the measurements were almost identical. For the work that I do, that is accurate enough.
Amana also makes reducer bushings in different sizes, even metric. I bought a few a while back at toolstoday.com before I had the precisebits collets.
@ piperpilot. Thanks for the info I just ordered two collet adapters!
@ atwooddon. Thanks for the quick review.
Deeds not words...
VoltsAndBolts runs RC for the builder. http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/ My Forum
Has anyone posted their design for a mount for this router? I just ordered one and I'd like to start working on the mount. I guess I really only need to the diameter of the router to make a clamp.
Just a general question, I never see anyone leave any router in default base and just use the mounting holes on the base. Is there a reason to clamp directly to the body of the router?
Thanks,
-C
I thought about getting another one... until I walked therough Home Depot a couple weeks ago and saw them blowing out the Bosch1617 for $159. With both fixed and plunge bases! The available PreciseBits collets for it was the deal-maker, don't know if Ron Reed has them for the DeWalt?
Here is a dfx of the DWP611 router mount I use on my machine. You are welcome to use it if it will help you. I use mine on a Fireball V90, you can adjust it to fit your mount requirements. It also has a standoff to support a vacuum tube. It takes 2 of this design to mount the DWP611 on my machine.
Don
I am looking to build a mount for my fireball V90 for this router. Can someone tell me what material is reccomended? I am looking to make it out of plastic like HPDE or UHMW but not sure on the thickness, maybe 3/4 inch or 1/2 inch? Sorry if this has been posted before, but I have not been able to find a really good design.
monte9030
HDPE or UHMW would work fine. MDF will also work. see post #70 of this thread. I used 3/4" MDF.
Don
Here is a mount I whipped up. Feel free to modify to suit your needs. The clamp gap is sized to be cut with a 1/4" or smaller bit.
Rob Wms
Deeds not words...
VoltsAndBolts runs RC for the builder. http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/ My Forum
I got tired of the downdraft from my DeWalt DWP611 spreading the dust before it could be picked up by the vacuum. The DWP611 is variable speed and has 2 LEDs in the base on either side of the spindle to light up the cut area which is very nice. I have used this router for about 40 hours now and it still runs like new. There didn't appear to be any easy way to mount the deflector to the bottom of the router until I noticed there were 2 screws that held the shaft lock button assembly in place. So, I designed an air deflector that would use those 2 screws as the attach point. All you need to do is find 2 matching screws that about 1/4" longer.
It seems to work great, the chips and dust don't get blown around much at all making the vacuum pickup much more effective. Below are 2 pictures of the deflector right after cutting and 1 of it mounted. You can see the work surface below the router is well lit by the 2 LEDs. The only thing you have to do after machining is counter sink the 2 attach holes on the bottom with holes big enough to clear the screw heads.
Don