[epineh]

I have used loom tube on my router for the moment, it seems to support itself OK and as Joe mentions protects the cable a bit. You can see what I mean on my build log.

Just gotta draw up some design's for a DIY carrier then I'm in business.

Oh yeah I gotta get the machine going first...(chair)

Hopefully this week, been fishing hehe.

Russell.

[joecnc2006]

I have used loom tube on my router for the moment, it seems to support itself OK and as Joe mentions protects the cable a bit. You can see what I mean on my build log.

Just gotta draw up some design's for a DIY carrier then I'm in business.

Oh yeah I gotta get the machine going first...(chair)

Hopefully this week, been fishing hehe.

Russell.

yes the flexible, electrical conduit should work good, and here it is only 5 dollars for a 10'x3/4" so you can see this is a inexpensive rout to take.

joe

[epineh]

Yup works well on my machine, although it would with only one axis going... hehe

Russell.

[Al_The_Man]

Another fairly cheap way that works good on short travel machines is either non-metallic flexible conduit, or metallic liquid-seal super flex conduit.
This can be obtained by the foot complete with end fittings, from local Electrical supply houses.
Just form a loop that will extend out to the max. travel. Simple ways can be used to prevent catching of the loop.
The advantage is it offers good protection from oil & chips on Mills etc.
In N.Am. Thomas & Betts is one supplier.
If you are looking at the curtain idea (called Festooning), use 3/4" pipe for a hanger and get industrial curtain loops, from Home Depot (Like shower curtain hangers but steel).
Al.

[CNCezee]

OK Guys, This is my two pennys worth.

I started with a length of 36mm wide 0.25mm steel shim, i drilled a set of 3mm holes 2,5mm in on each side 100mm apart, to this i screwd 10 plastic "U" shaped cable retaininers, this suprisingly stiffend the shim, i next loaded the cable chain slimchain reg with 8 x 2.5mm2 cables much more than what i will ever need, do look at the photos and give me your opinion.........forget the spelling ....i have!!!

Roger

I hope the photos come out

[epineh]

Neat, that is totally different to what I had in my mind as to what you meant.

Only prob I could see is if you had different diameter cables, the smaller ones might "float" around a bit, not that it would probably matter.

Definately would work. How do you think the steel would hold up to repeated flexing ?

Russell.

[CNCezee]

The only place that will suffer is where the strip is anchord, but by adding a couple of thicknesses just at the end the spring action would be greatly improved and therefor increase the bend radius and reduce the tendancy to break, as to diferant size cables well tie then to each other or to the plastic clips

roger

[bigz1]

As for buying ready made stuff, unfortunately the "cheap" chain seems to increase exponentially as soon as it travels over a few oceans and lands on my doorstep, I think I will still be making my own.

Russell.

Russel their is a RS components located in Australia. The chain costs $44.10.

http://www.rsaustralia.com/cgi-bin/b...eID=aunetscape

Liam

[paulC]

Russel their is a RS components located in Australia. The chain costs $14.80.
Liam

The only thing I can see for $14.80 is a bracket for the end of the chain. Not the chain its self. Do you have the stock number of what you were looking at.

Paul

[bigz1]

Sorry Paul. Updated price. For all options put "Cavotec" and "price" in the sort options. Also try "Igus".

Liam

[paulC]

Their catalog is quite confusing. I think you were originally looking at the price for an end bracket. The cheapest chain I can see is $44.10. Thats for 29x23mm x 1 metre length. RS Stock No. 454-6207. Then I think you need to add on a couple of the end brackets at $14.80 and GST. Not so cheap.
Paul

[epineh]

Still, 44 bucks isn't bad, I would hate to think how much time it is going to take me to perfect my DIY version, but there is the satisfaction of doing it myself blah blah blah...

Russell.

[paulC]

More like $80 for one axis. You proberbly need 2.
As this thread is for the do it your self version I will stop there.
If I can save a buck on cable management, its money I can use elsewhere.
Paul

[randyf1965]

I was thinking of something like this... Only 2 different parts
Modelled with 1/4" mdf rounded parts are 4" x 2" bottom part is 2 " square. Probably used the same piece to cover the top, or figure out a way to latch it on for easy cable routing or rerouting. use 1/4" bolts to connect the 2 sections nylock nuts to adjust tension for movement. Could build in stops to limit range of motion.

Out of 2 2'x4' pice of mdf ($4 at HD) could cut 120 side pieces and 120 top/bottoms... enough for 180" of cable guide. Screws to hold the top/bottom and 1/4" bolts should be < $50

[bigz1]

To make it self supporting I think you need to change the outside semicircle to a quadrant with the same radius and then have the flats on both parts touch.

Looking at both Igus and Cavotec chains they have 3 options. One that folds back on its self and slides on the lower chain or 2 self supporting options. One of the self supporting options holds itself flat(this make sense?). The other has a slight banana shape(this is so the same dimmension chain can cover a longer travel before failing under the additional load).

[epineh]

More like $80 for one axis. You proberbly need 2.
As this thread is for the do it your self version I will stop there.
If I can save a buck on cable management, its money I can use elsewhere.
Paul

I'm with you there, and since I am now looking at servo's instead of steppers (yes I have the steppers and drivers setup already (chair) ), every penny counts (not that we have pennies here anymore...)

That is why my machine has the flexible conduit version at the moment, which works very well I might add, it just doesn't look the goods.

Randy I was looking at a similiar approach, only using black LDPE, it looks like the real thing, but is a PITA to work with as far as glueing or screwing is concerned, which is why my machine cut stuff will (hopefully) lock together and stay together. I went to a supplier to purchase some and after I told him what it was for he gave me about a one metre by half metre piece (3mm thick) for free, he must have liked my story.

As for the movement side of things, strategic placing of the cross pieces should allow for the required movement.

Cheers.

Russell.




Russell.

[paulC]

Here's my solution. I cut PVC eletrical ducting using a sled on the saw table. A little clean up cut on a band saw then drilled with a jig to speed things up and maintain some degree of acuracy. (A bit out on the acuracy but its not causing problems.) Then used 4mm eyelets to fasten the joints. I'm quite pleased with the eyelets because they are inserted with a manual plier the tension is not large and I have control of the process. I can remove the eyelets fairley easily so if any carriers break I can replace them. I inserted the eyelets from the inside outward so the rough edge is outward rather than against the cables. With the hinge central to the duct I think the cable should follow around curves better than a bottom hinge. I just hope I havent weakened the plastic too much. Time will tell. Moves quite well. It is a little time consuming I would estimate 2 hours per meter now that I have my jigs.

Paul

[epineh]

That is sweet... well done, I think I might go and raid my wife's eyelet collection.

Russell.

[greybeard]

Great Paul - all it needs are go-faster stripes and you're there.

[epineh]

Great Paul - all it needs are go-faster stripes and you're there.

... Of relevant colour of course, but that is another story ... hehe

Russell.